Hey all! I just picked up a performer 400 intake for my 4x4 at a swap meet. My truck has a stock 351 in it with at 2bbl motocraft, my question is what carb should I put on? And what kind of seccondaries should I go with? ( vac./elec.)

 

go with a Holley vacumn secondaries with electric choke
600 or 650cfm

 

WHATS AMATTER WITH THE OLD TWO BARREL?

 

600cfm, i won't be brand specific but i use the edelbrock 1406 600cfm and it works just fine on my 390

 

if you want to fiddle with a holly for years,puke fuel,run rich thats the way to go but if you want to set it once and forget it go eddy 1406 as nw said every holly/motocraft i have ever owned up untill 2 years ago is in "carb heaven" 1 wont run any thing else if you drive your truck often they will work but if a truck sits holly/motocraft seem to start leaking through the gaskets eddy have no gaskets below the fuel level,have a million combos for the rod/jets to lean out the engine work good

 

i kind of like the holley Truck avenger carb.

Holley 0-90670 - Holley Truck Avenger Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

after reading the above i might consider trying the other.

 

Go with the Eddy if you just wanna "set it and forget it", go with the Holley if you know how to dial in a carb.

 

You have HORRIBLE writing skills, miottimouse. I could hardly read what you are trying to say.

And if you knew anything about carburetors, you would know that the original Motorcraft carburetor his truck came with would NOT have gaskets below the fuel level. The Motorcraft 2150 is one of the most simplest and reliable carburetors ever made. The annular boosters on the Motorcraft carburetor will atomize fuel better than your Edelbrock, and the hot-air choke works better than the electric choke your Edelbrock and all Holley's have.

 

Ok, so minus anyone's improper grammar or spelling... Not that I really care, I heard my English teacher say that enough twenty years ago. The edelbrock 1406 seams to be the general consensus, now that is a 600cfm correct? I say that this engine is stock but I do plan on a cam swap and timing set. Is this carburetor big enough? And yes this truck sits alot! With gas at a $1.30/L or I guess that's approx $5.00/Gallon, I can't afford to drive it nearly as often as I would like...

 

Sorry my first question was already answered in the third response.

 

I should put this link in my sig Calculate Required CFM Of Carburetor

That 351cid @ 6700rpm & 75% VE will need 510cfm

Vacuum secondary 500-600cfm in whatever flavor 4v carb you prefer should give good results. Manual choke is easiest to deal with if you don't mind drilling holes and running a cable for it. As with everything, headers and good free flowing exhaust will help make good use of anything you do on the intake side. I know on the FE this is pretty much Step 1, not so sure about the windsor motors, but it probably can't hurt.

Carb selection is all about personal preference. Do a search and check out all the bickering in other threads about the "what brand" debate. It really does not matter, as long as you feel comfortable fiddling with it. I have a 600cfm Holley 4160 (manual choke & vacuum secondaries) and a 600cfm Autolite 4100 (hot air/electric choke & vacuum secondaries) for the truck when I get back to that point, and I like the Autolite better than the Holley, but again, its personal preference.

Good luck!

 

I agree with your post 100%, DrainBramage. In fact, I had a Holley 470 cfm "Truck Avenger" (4150) carburetor for about two years when I replaced my original 2150 2V. The Holley was ok, but I always had a slight hesitation that I never could seem to tune out. I realize a more experienced carb tuner could probably get rid of it, but I got tired of constantly fiddling with it. And the electric choke was rather annoying, as they operate on a timer and choke the motor every time the engine is restarted, whether the engine needs it or not. And the electric choke comes off after about 60 seconds, which isn't really long enough when it is real cold. To be honest with you, I felt that my truck ran MUCH better with the Motorcraft 2150, even though it was a 2 barrel carburetor.

When the Holley developed a leak at the metering block, I decided to go with a 600cfm Autolite 4100, which is pretty much a Motorcraft 2150 with 2 extra barrels. Plus it has a hot air choke with annular boosters, just like the Motorcraft. I now have the driveability of the original Motorcraft 2150, but with 4 barrels instead of 2. My gas mileage, throttle response, overall smoothness, and cold starts all improved with the Autolite. That was the best upgrade I ever did to my truck.

 

Wow GREAT answers!! Drainbramage that was probably the most decicive and informative answers I have have ever asked for! Reps for sure!
The autolite with the hot air choke, isn't the hot air supplied off the intake? If I remember right there isn't any connection on the intake I bought. Would I be able to purchase this carb with a manual choke? The reason I say this is my stock 2bbl works great, I'm just up for improvement. Thanks again guys!

 

Thanks man! I try to help where I can!

You should be able to purchase any modern carb with a manual choke... Holley, Edelbrock/Carter, etc. or there are kits out there to convert them. My Holley 4160 had an electric choke, but it drove me bonkers. I sucked it up and bought the conversion kit from Holley so I could control the choke directly. The Autolites are a little harder to convert to manual because they are pretty old and parts are not as plentiful, but it can be done. I plan on leaving mine hot air & electric, or see if I can change the bracket and choke cap and make mine hot air & coolant (from the heater hose.)

There is a user on this board called FMC400 that made a great post a while back about how the hot air chokes work and how to hook them up, but I can't find it at the moment. With my truck, now that I have headers and an aftermarket intake, I plan on running a coil of steel tube around one of the primaries and then up into the bottom of the choke. The other end of the tube will get hooked into the nipple on the carb that goes directly into the air cleaner. This will make sure I don't have unfiltered air coming into the other side of the tube and then into the choke. It should work OK but will probably take some fiddling to get it adjusted correctly.

Hope this helps!

 

X2 on the Autolite 4100. It's super simple and yes, it is more or less a 2100 with two more barrels. You'll want the one with "1.12" cast on the left (driver's side) of the fuel bowl cuz it's 600 cfm. A 1.08 casting gets you only 480 cfm. The hot air choke connects to the heat stove stemming from the passenger side manifold and connects to a nipple on at the 7 o'clock position on the choke cap housing. Clean out the choke piston every so often cuz it can get gummed up.

IIRC, 65/66 Shelby GT350s came with a manual choke 715 cfm 4100. Rare and expensive if you do find one.

Ah, yer running headers. Some manufacturers offer a choke kit but it is nothing more than tubing welded to the header tube. EZ to fab up yer own.

I have an Edelbrock 1406 and have no complaints.

Summit offers a house brand Holley clone for around $270. I'd be curious on how it performs.