I have A 57 F100 with a 302 under the hood. Yesterday on two different occasions, while I was making a right turn, my truck engine died without warning. I still had power as my gauges indicated. When I pulled over and put it in park and tried to restart the engine it turned over but would not start. I thought the carb was not getting fuel, but after a few minutes it started. This has happened three times so far and I don't want there to be a fourth.
I thought about that, but I have a fuel filter and the inline fuel pressure gauge show that the line was pressurized. I'm thinking of upgrading fuel pump to a Edelbrock 1725 Performer fuel pump and up dating my ignition coil. Don't know how old it is, was on the engine when I bought the vehicle. One of those thing that need to be replaced no matter what.
The carb is a Edelbrock Performer Series #1403 500 CFM that I purchased in April of 2010 from JEGS as a rebuilt unit. I have notice that when I step on the throttle that their is a slight hesitation. Looking at the troubleshooting sheet right now.
I'm going to throw the coil / ballast resistor wiring out there too, less likely than ground strap, but since you aren't loosing guages. If it shorts when you hit a bump / turn / flex the body to frame enough to move the wiring.... check the connection at the coil - nice and tight, no short in the crimp? Unhook it, and then put a volt meter or test light on the wire and ground, put the key in on position to it and wiggle the wiring harness around a little (work your way from coil to ballast resistor, then back to the ignition switch) - watch to see if the test light goes out or if the volt meter bounces. Is it the original wiring?, been rewired with a good kit?, been rewired by a PO? What caused it to start working on the 3 occasions... sit long enough to cool down, sit long enough to relieve a vapor lock, or just mystery. Hard right turns with a dip, enough you bottom out the steering travel? Tell us about anything you can think of detail and diagnostically.
Wiring harness is not original. as is the front suspension, engine and tranny and steering column. Custom mods done by a diyer. No short on bumps, don't think its a wiring issue, knock-on-wood. the coil has a snap on attachment for the tach. Could be time to replace the coil, don't know how old it is. Will try the meter test tomorrow. I was at a stop light getting ready to turn right, stepped on the gas felt a hesitation as I turned then the engine just died. I'm leaning more towards vapor lock due to the persistent hesitations while stationary in drive and I try for a fast acceleration. No issues when steering, but will also check that tomorrow to rule it out.
Vapor lock (gas boiling out of the carb / line) is almost unheard of with E10 (10% ethanol), You aren't going to the special effort of digging up a 100% gasoline station are you (boat marina). If you don't think it is wiring, then I lean towards flooding - especially if you "flood" it out when you mash the pedal. You could do the wiring check (easy and free) without the test light just to see if you can reproduce it (sitting at idle go through and wiggle all the wiring in the path I said)... if there's no death/hesitation then no short - focus your attention on the carb.
What is the fuel PSI? (and is that at the carb, or you have an in dash gauge)... If trash (big piece of trash) is getting pulled up against the pickup you will see instant drop in PSI.. but if the gauge is under the hood then you can't really read it until you stop and the trash pulls away from the pickup tube right
(My spidey sense is saying go with Larry, it's debris in the tank)
The stumble on acceleration sounds like accelerator pump adjustment on the carb, very common to be out of adjustment, especially on a rebuilt unit. This being out could will cause a lean condition when you hit the gas. If it is out of adjustment far enough it could cause what you have, the engine dying with a load applied, e.g. trying to accelerate (especially in a turn). Work on making sure the carb is dialed in before you waste a lot of time and money throwing parts and test at the truck.