CEL, then Stop Safely Now
#1
CEL, then Stop Safely Now
First post here and I hope I am not treading old ground. I have a 2011 F-250 with about 5000 miles. Sunday night, I was driving home and first got the CEL. Then less than 5 miles later, I got the red "Stop Safely Now". Pulled over and the thing just died. Checked the message center and nothing out of the ordinary other than the SSN message. Had to wait about 45 minutes for the tow truck and thought it might cool down. I tried to start it while waiting but got nothing. Battery was good and all electronics worked. Waiting to hear a diagnosis from the dealer. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
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Thanks for the hospitality. I will definitely pass along what they find. Now if I could just get them to call me. They have had it since Monday and claimed to be looking at it first thing this morning. Is it likely that they will inform me as to the codes that they find or is that soemthing I will need to ask for? I am novice on these things but it seems like it will be good info to pass along to the more knowledgeable for future reference.
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#8
Dealership called to report that it was a failed EGT sensor. Part arrives in the morning and will be replaced tomorrow. I will try to find out more if there is anything more to learn. In the meantime, I'm a little disappoutned that it results in a complete vehicle shutdown. It would have been nice to limp home with the kids in the car instead of waiting for the tow truck.
#9
With EGT, you're better off letting it shut down.
I know it's a pain but if it was a true temp problem, you don't want something melting.
False alarm this time due to the failed sensor but those are there for a reason.
There are four. If you feel like it, ask them which one it was.
EGT11 is pre DOC, EGT12 is post DOC, EGT 13 is pre-DPF and EGT 14 is post DPF.
I know it's a pain but if it was a true temp problem, you don't want something melting.
False alarm this time due to the failed sensor but those are there for a reason.
There are four. If you feel like it, ask them which one it was.
EGT11 is pre DOC, EGT12 is post DOC, EGT 13 is pre-DPF and EGT 14 is post DPF.
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I agree it seems there should be a way to sync them to prevent this. That is exactly why the common CPS failure on the 7.3 was not an issue on the 6.0 because there is a redundancy between the crank position and cam position sensors.
Like kper05 said, for an EGT issue I would rather see it shutdown than meltdown.
Like kper05 said, for an EGT issue I would rather see it shutdown than meltdown.
#12
Glad to hear they found the problem. RTD's are pretty neat when they work right. We use them on our shovels at work and they seem to have a propensity to failure. A $100 sensor shuts down a $14 million dollar shovel. Oh well, like 720Deere said, better to shut down than melt down. Thanks for the update.
#14
On the 6.4 you can do a bypass to start the truck and then continue on. but you better make darn sure that you don't have an issue.
Also I would have though that after about an hour you should be able to start the truck Even if not too long before the sensor would have shut you down again.
Also I would have though that after about an hour you should be able to start the truck Even if not too long before the sensor would have shut you down again.
#15
My CEL came on immediately after driving away from the dealer after this Spring's reflash. The CEL (and other idiot lights) come and go still to this day. Mine frequently dies and I used to have to call the dealer, but they would not fix it due to the necessary upgrades I had performed elsewhere.
My fix was to get a code reader for about $50, and I use this thing daily, to clear all the codes and allow the vehicle to operate. Yes, I know there is the danger of there being something really wrong, and shutting off the warnings could exacerbate matters, but in my case I'm willing to take the risk to have a vehicle to drive.
I will be in the Midwest in a few months, and I'm sure once I get there I will have numerous dealers to choose from to fix my truck (under warranty), without hassling me about all the (so far) minor changes that I've made.
I too suspect bad sensor(s) as a likely suspect. And like the last generation of these trucks, most of the problems are just small irritating ones, mostly related to emissions equipment forced on us by our own government. I really like Darren32's home made "tweak". Very clean-looking and a permanent solution.
I bet the service manager had an absolute heart attack when you got that truck up on their lift! My service manager was completely red-faced when he saw the (non-Ford) mudflaps and Weather-tech floormats, etc. Your's must have simply self-immolated after not seeing the usual mess of garbage between the frame rails!
My fix was to get a code reader for about $50, and I use this thing daily, to clear all the codes and allow the vehicle to operate. Yes, I know there is the danger of there being something really wrong, and shutting off the warnings could exacerbate matters, but in my case I'm willing to take the risk to have a vehicle to drive.
I will be in the Midwest in a few months, and I'm sure once I get there I will have numerous dealers to choose from to fix my truck (under warranty), without hassling me about all the (so far) minor changes that I've made.
I too suspect bad sensor(s) as a likely suspect. And like the last generation of these trucks, most of the problems are just small irritating ones, mostly related to emissions equipment forced on us by our own government. I really like Darren32's home made "tweak". Very clean-looking and a permanent solution.
I bet the service manager had an absolute heart attack when you got that truck up on their lift! My service manager was completely red-faced when he saw the (non-Ford) mudflaps and Weather-tech floormats, etc. Your's must have simply self-immolated after not seeing the usual mess of garbage between the frame rails!