1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1985 f150 fuel tank selector valve

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Old 09-03-2011, 09:49 PM
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1985 f150 fuel tank selector valve

i have a 85 f150 4wd with dual tanks. the truck is a factory 351w 4bbl carb truck. it sat for @5 years with a blown engine. recently rebuilt another 351w and put it in. had to replace both gas tanks due to trash in tanks. could not get fuel to the engine and figured out the selector valve was bad. bypassed it and truck started up.my question is will the universal one wire valve work on my truck? it has a 2 wire connector and it had the plastic fuel lines like a fuel injected truck would have. why would this be on a carb engine?
 
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:31 AM
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They went to those type lines, probably because of assembly line speed. The line is made up off the line, and then the line worker just plugs it in and that's it, unlike having to fiddle with a hose clamp. But that does not mean you cannot convert yours over. I have seen plenty of these plastic lines cut off, and then just slipped over a barb with a small hose clamp, I have done it myself, and it seems to work. Sometimes you need to get a heat gun to soften the line a little bit.

If the universal valve has enough ports, and the logic is correct(power to the valve will be one tank, no power will be the other tank) it should work.
 
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:19 PM
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yea i have done away with the plastic lines and useing rubber lines.how does the one wire work versus the 2 wire valve? thanks
 
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:59 PM
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2 wire = power and ground
1 wire = power wire with frame ground
rear tank feed = no power to selector valve
The valve will be warm to the touch if the valve is enerigized
Jim
 

Last edited by JimsRebel; 09-04-2011 at 11:30 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by moneypit79
i have a 85 f150 4wd with dual tanks. the truck is a factory 351w 4bbl carb truck. it sat for @5 years with a blown engine. recently rebuilt another 351w and put it in. had to replace both gas tanks due to trash in tanks. could not get fuel to the engine and figured out the selector valve was bad ( so, what else is new?!), bypassed it and truck started.
1985/86: The selector valves are NOTORIOUS POS and have been since day one.

There are two possibles: E5TZ-9189-A -3 ports ~ Marked E57B-9H271-AA // E5TZ-9189-B -6 ports ~ Marked E57B-9H271-BA or E67B-9H271-AA.
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:00 AM
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Gee, Bill, I must be lucky my 6 port valve still works after 25 years.
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Gee, Bill, I must be lucky my 6 port valve still works after 25 years.
Did you buy the 1986 new? If so, go buy some lottery tickets, cuz you're one a the luckiest people in the world.

If based on the 25 years you said you've had no problems (which I assume means you bought it used), how many of these valves do you think were replaced before you bought it? 1, 2 or ?

One a the first part numbers I typed on FTE was E5TZ-9189-B. I had no '80/89 truck parts catalog back then (11/2006), but didn't need it then and even though I have it now, I still don't need it, because...

The OP said he needed the 6 ported valve and had I memorized the part number decades ago. I passed out mega-dozens of the little charmers to mechanics (for C/P & 1863 RO's), because it was a POS!

I was speaking with Ed Olson on the "Ameche" awhile back (PartsGuyEd.com). We were talking about certain notorious POS Ford parts. When he mentioned the 6 porter, I reeled off E5TZ-9189-B!

He laughed and said...it's an EZ number to remember, considering...
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:07 PM
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Bill, I bought the truck in 1994 with around 85,000 miles, it now has 119,827 miles. Truck was originally owned by Delmar stables in Suffolk VA, I am the third owner. It has been a tow vehicle it's entire life. When I bought it the front tank had a seam leak and the rear one a bad fuel pump. Loads of fun, every parts store told me I couldn't have electric pumps unless it was fuel injected.
 
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:20 PM
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my truck has the 3 port valve but has the 2 wire electrical connector.it is carbed and has 1 manual fuel pump on the engine.so if i tie the 2 wires together and put them on the one post of the valve it should work??thanks
 
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by moneypit79
my truck has the 3 port valve but has the 2 wire electrical connector.it is carbed and has 1 manual fuel pump on the engine.so if i tie the 2 wires together and put them on the one post of the valve it should work??thanks
Connecting the power and the ground wire together is always a bad idea, it will blow the fuse.
Just use the wire that is hot with the switch in the front tank position.
See post 4
 
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:37 PM
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thanks didnt realize one wire was a ground
 
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
2 wire = power and ground
1 wire = power wire with frame ground
rear tank feed = no power to selector valve
The valve will be warm to the touch if the valve is enerigized
Jim
so I have a fuel selector valve I bought that looks very similar to the one on my truck, but the new one just has a post with a nut on it and my current one has a two prong connection. Could I get by with hooking up the power to the post and screwing the other wire to the frame. Please help.here is the part I have. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwijnpLLh5LOAhVGYH4KHV1BDHUYABAP &sig=AOD64_3yGSnmE9Cw90Bm-G47H06ysHHcSQ&adurl=&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwj-yJDLh5LOAhUSS2MKHYwnC4oQqCsIeQ
 
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Chase
so I have a fuel selector valve I bought that looks very similar to the one on my truck, but the new one just has a post with a nut on it and my current one has a two prong connection. Could I get by with hooking up the power to the post and screwing the other wire to the frame. Please help.here is the part I have. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...HYwnC4oQqCsIeQ

Just use the Hot wire , you don't need to do anything with the ground wire.
 
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