Sharing my 56 F100 project....
#76
01-27-2012, 06:16 PM
I foolishly sold my old regulators before I tried the new ones, luckily a guy on here ( I foget who) sold me a pair of good original ones.. I am sure yours wont be the same as the junk ones I bought ;o)... Mine were not painted black just bare metal. and few year back now... Sorry if I have put the worry on you.. Keep at it Man ! ;o)
#77
01-28-2012, 02:57 AM
Well I'll keep my eye on them. They don't look bad at all for aftermarket units.
Got some more pics to add. I didn't have a driver's door lock and felt I needed one for ease of access. I picked up a door lock set (ign, and 2 door lock, driver and passenger) from Mid-Fifty as well as their driver's door lock installation kit.
Here's a little step by step of me installing it.
Here's the driver's door with door handle removed.
I removed the door lock and handle from the passenger's door to be able to make a better template using a portion of a file folder to transfer the image with. There is one that comes with the Mid-Fifty kit although it's crude (and they acknowlege that) it would probably work in a pinch. They advised making one of my own off the passenger door.
I carefully cut out the door handle holes along with the passenger door lock hole. I used the door handle holes to align the template on the other door.
Here i fllp the template over and align it using the door handle holes.
After tracing the door lock onto the door i choose a couple drill bits just smaller than the traced area. Easier to remove metal than to have to put it back!
Using a dremel and some small hand files and jewlers files, i shape it to match the passenger lock hole. I also use the supplied driver's door lock to ensure a good snug fit into the added hole.
Here's where you'll find the slot that the door lock retainer goes into. Even though the door doesn't have a lock hole in it, this slot should still be in your door anyways. Just hidden under the door seal.
Another closer shot of the slot. The installation kit includes the actuation arm necessary for the driver's door between the door lock and the latch assembly. The latch assembly will already be set up to accept this lever, so no extra fab work needed there.
Put it all together just as the passenger door is and viola! you now have a good functioning driver's door lock! It's really pretty easy and straightforward. Took me a couple of hours to do this and that all depends on what tools you have at your disposal. My dremel came in pretty handy for this task as well as having some very small files too.
After doing the door lock i tried messing around with the striker assembly trying to get the door to shut better. After closer inspection, I realized my striker was wasted! No wonder it'd never shut tight. Ended up gettin a new striker from Mid-Fifty aswell. After installing it and a couple small adjustments the door shuts like a dream, even with the old door seals! I mean it really shuts well, nice and soild with little to no effort!
The other thing I accomplished after this was to tackle my temperature gauge situation. there was just no way i could run the stock '56 sending unit anywhere in my engine. So using a later gauge from a '57-'60 PU, i modified the later gauge with '56 parts. Here's a link to that thread which i posted seperately.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-retrofit.html
So now it's down to a few small details. Just rewiring the truck and a new exhaust job are all that's left for the big ticket items. MAN this thing is sooooo close!
Got some more pics to add. I didn't have a driver's door lock and felt I needed one for ease of access. I picked up a door lock set (ign, and 2 door lock, driver and passenger) from Mid-Fifty as well as their driver's door lock installation kit.
Here's a little step by step of me installing it.
Here's the driver's door with door handle removed.
I removed the door lock and handle from the passenger's door to be able to make a better template using a portion of a file folder to transfer the image with. There is one that comes with the Mid-Fifty kit although it's crude (and they acknowlege that) it would probably work in a pinch. They advised making one of my own off the passenger door.
I carefully cut out the door handle holes along with the passenger door lock hole. I used the door handle holes to align the template on the other door.
Here i fllp the template over and align it using the door handle holes.
After tracing the door lock onto the door i choose a couple drill bits just smaller than the traced area. Easier to remove metal than to have to put it back!
Using a dremel and some small hand files and jewlers files, i shape it to match the passenger lock hole. I also use the supplied driver's door lock to ensure a good snug fit into the added hole.
Here's where you'll find the slot that the door lock retainer goes into. Even though the door doesn't have a lock hole in it, this slot should still be in your door anyways. Just hidden under the door seal.
Another closer shot of the slot. The installation kit includes the actuation arm necessary for the driver's door between the door lock and the latch assembly. The latch assembly will already be set up to accept this lever, so no extra fab work needed there.
Put it all together just as the passenger door is and viola! you now have a good functioning driver's door lock! It's really pretty easy and straightforward. Took me a couple of hours to do this and that all depends on what tools you have at your disposal. My dremel came in pretty handy for this task as well as having some very small files too.
After doing the door lock i tried messing around with the striker assembly trying to get the door to shut better. After closer inspection, I realized my striker was wasted! No wonder it'd never shut tight. Ended up gettin a new striker from Mid-Fifty aswell. After installing it and a couple small adjustments the door shuts like a dream, even with the old door seals! I mean it really shuts well, nice and soild with little to no effort!
The other thing I accomplished after this was to tackle my temperature gauge situation. there was just no way i could run the stock '56 sending unit anywhere in my engine. So using a later gauge from a '57-'60 PU, i modified the later gauge with '56 parts. Here's a link to that thread which i posted seperately.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-retrofit.html
So now it's down to a few small details. Just rewiring the truck and a new exhaust job are all that's left for the big ticket items. MAN this thing is sooooo close!
#79
02-17-2012, 11:56 PM
-Eyy nudder update-
Installed the wheel on that I wanted to run. It's a 13" Vinyl grip Grant Wheel
And if you are using a Flaming River or Chinese knockoff, this is the proper steering wheel adapter kit for 3-bolt mounted Grant wheels on these columns.
Moving on-
I put together one really nice dash out of about 4 of them I had picked up and that dad had. Ironically most all of the parts I used came from one dash I paid $5 for at a swap meet! Also installed a 'Rechromed Original' Dash bezel from Mid-Fifty. Had originally gotten a re-pop from Vintique, but it was a piece of trash. I don't recommend the re-pops at all. Installed Mid-Fifty's Oil and Amp (converted to volts) gauges. Also installed my modified Temp gauge too.
Now.. the moment has arrived.... The Wiring!! I'm very fimiliar with wiring and very good a problem solving and repairing it. However, I've never wired a rig from end to end all from scratch which is something the old man has done for a long time from way back in the day. So I wanted to be schooled and there is alot to be learned from the 'old dogs' so that's the route I wanted to go. He admits himself that it's much cheaper to buy a kit and install it these days. And since searching for all the needed parts and pieces and the cost of all the materials, he admitted that this skill has gone by way of the VCR. Either way, I wanted the knowlege.
Started off with testing existing circuits, lamps, sockets and made sure all the components were where I wanted them mounted. Started running wire and working on the rear end of the truck.
Cut out a piece of 1/2" plywood and stain/varnished it. Mounted a 14 circuit fuse board, and a couple remote-mount flasher connectors. Made the plywood kinda big to leave area to tie down the wires or room for additional electrical hardware for future upgrades.
Also took some time to start making up a wiring harness for the back of the dash. Also mounted the voltage reducer for the modified temp gauge. Will probably change a few of these wires. Was trying to use the factory 90* rubber ended connectors for a cleaner looking job, but might aswell just make all the wiring new. Going this far, why chance it?
Installed the wheel on that I wanted to run. It's a 13" Vinyl grip Grant Wheel
And if you are using a Flaming River or Chinese knockoff, this is the proper steering wheel adapter kit for 3-bolt mounted Grant wheels on these columns.
Moving on-
I put together one really nice dash out of about 4 of them I had picked up and that dad had. Ironically most all of the parts I used came from one dash I paid $5 for at a swap meet! Also installed a 'Rechromed Original' Dash bezel from Mid-Fifty. Had originally gotten a re-pop from Vintique, but it was a piece of trash. I don't recommend the re-pops at all. Installed Mid-Fifty's Oil and Amp (converted to volts) gauges. Also installed my modified Temp gauge too.
Now.. the moment has arrived.... The Wiring!! I'm very fimiliar with wiring and very good a problem solving and repairing it. However, I've never wired a rig from end to end all from scratch which is something the old man has done for a long time from way back in the day. So I wanted to be schooled and there is alot to be learned from the 'old dogs' so that's the route I wanted to go. He admits himself that it's much cheaper to buy a kit and install it these days. And since searching for all the needed parts and pieces and the cost of all the materials, he admitted that this skill has gone by way of the VCR. Either way, I wanted the knowlege.
Started off with testing existing circuits, lamps, sockets and made sure all the components were where I wanted them mounted. Started running wire and working on the rear end of the truck.
Cut out a piece of 1/2" plywood and stain/varnished it. Mounted a 14 circuit fuse board, and a couple remote-mount flasher connectors. Made the plywood kinda big to leave area to tie down the wires or room for additional electrical hardware for future upgrades.
Also took some time to start making up a wiring harness for the back of the dash. Also mounted the voltage reducer for the modified temp gauge. Will probably change a few of these wires. Was trying to use the factory 90* rubber ended connectors for a cleaner looking job, but might aswell just make all the wiring new. Going this far, why chance it?
#80
02-19-2012, 02:52 PM
#81
02-20-2012, 02:16 AM
Thanks! Wiring is a low and slow process. But it's been fun so far.
On that wheel kit, make sure that Grant wheel you have uses only 3 holes to mount it, otherwise you'll need a different adapter. Its amazing what you find stashed away over time... seems like a daily treasure hunt in my shop!
On that wheel kit, make sure that Grant wheel you have uses only 3 holes to mount it, otherwise you'll need a different adapter. Its amazing what you find stashed away over time... seems like a daily treasure hunt in my shop!
#82
02-25-2012, 01:59 AM
Here's a little install guide for the steering column adapter. The instructions wern't very clear at all. Now that the wiring has begun, I started tracing wires and checking stuff only to find out the horn was grounding itself out to the steering column. Sooooo after a few minutes of switching stuff around I think I figured out what the instructions 'should' have better stated.
Here's most all your parts. (cover bell under wheel not pictured) They are installed in the order you see them from left to right.
Here you must slide this small spacer ring down onto the main steering shaft's retaining nut to space up the plastic horn contact piece.
After you put on the spacer ring, the plastic horn contact/mast, and spring, you will install the aluminum adapter. There are two possible positions to install the adapter at and its related to how the turn signal cams cancel the turn signals. the way i have pictured seems to work the best.
Now when using this position, you'll have to insert (press fit) the wire into the groove there shown. This is to allow the wire to be able to come up into the proper hole on the cover bell and steering wheel.
And should look like this when you are done. (I didn't install the cover bell, but simply held up the wheel just for showing purposes)
Assembling it all this way stopped my horn from grounding out through the column.
Here's most all your parts. (cover bell under wheel not pictured) They are installed in the order you see them from left to right.
Here you must slide this small spacer ring down onto the main steering shaft's retaining nut to space up the plastic horn contact piece.
After you put on the spacer ring, the plastic horn contact/mast, and spring, you will install the aluminum adapter. There are two possible positions to install the adapter at and its related to how the turn signal cams cancel the turn signals. the way i have pictured seems to work the best.
Now when using this position, you'll have to insert (press fit) the wire into the groove there shown. This is to allow the wire to be able to come up into the proper hole on the cover bell and steering wheel.
And should look like this when you are done. (I didn't install the cover bell, but simply held up the wheel just for showing purposes)
Assembling it all this way stopped my horn from grounding out through the column.
#83
02-25-2012, 02:22 AM
Still chippin away on the wiring a little bit at a time. Been kinda fun and quite the learning experience. The old man's still got a trick or two up his sleeve. 
Got the back of the dash all finished up and ready to roll. Used a couple connectors sourced from Ron Francis WW.
Here at the main panel, starting to run circuits. All still in mock up stages.
Running the longer runs of wire now. The underneath to the tail lights and such (no pics) is already done. Here you can see we're running the main wires that would cross over on the engine side of the firewall to the inside along the upper cowl. There are a couple clamps that keep the wires from gettininteh way of the wipers. All the wiring is still loose fitted as it's al still in the mock-up stages.
As you probably have noticed, I popped a new hole right by the heater through the firewall. Used a grommet from a later model truck's headlight harness. Looks just as if Henry would have done it himself. Here the wiring comes through to service the main battery feed to the fuse block, the starter soleniod, the horn relay and then down the inner fender to the Votage regulator. Connector on installed yet on the regulator. Then down to the alternator.
Past the voltage regulator, to the horn and last on the line is the electric fan.
Still have to do the harness to the engine senders and coil. Also the wiring loom to the headlights and turn signals. I picked up the Mid-Fifty replacement headlight harness and was a bit disappointed. The harness itself looks and fits very well, I was just not impressed at the connectors and how they were installed. I was under the impression the ends were made/molded on as-original.. These are simply 'adapted' to the harness. I mean it will work, and function fine and the harness was only like $25 i think... Just not exactly what I had in mind.
Soooo hopefully with a little more time and a few more mising pieces found, this thing will be wired up hopefully in a few more days.
Gettin THAT much CLOSER!
Got the back of the dash all finished up and ready to roll. Used a couple connectors sourced from Ron Francis WW.
Here at the main panel, starting to run circuits. All still in mock up stages.
Running the longer runs of wire now. The underneath to the tail lights and such (no pics) is already done. Here you can see we're running the main wires that would cross over on the engine side of the firewall to the inside along the upper cowl. There are a couple clamps that keep the wires from gettininteh way of the wipers. All the wiring is still loose fitted as it's al still in the mock-up stages.
As you probably have noticed, I popped a new hole right by the heater through the firewall. Used a grommet from a later model truck's headlight harness. Looks just as if Henry would have done it himself.
Here the wiring comes through to service the main battery feed to the fuse block, the starter soleniod, the horn relay and then down the inner fender to the Votage regulator. Connector on installed yet on the regulator. Then down to the alternator.Past the voltage regulator, to the horn and last on the line is the electric fan.
Still have to do the harness to the engine senders and coil. Also the wiring loom to the headlights and turn signals. I picked up the Mid-Fifty replacement headlight harness and was a bit disappointed. The harness itself looks and fits very well, I was just not impressed at the connectors and how they were installed. I was under the impression the ends were made/molded on as-original.. These are simply 'adapted' to the harness. I mean it will work, and function fine and the harness was only like $25 i think... Just not exactly what I had in mind.
Soooo hopefully with a little more time and a few more mising pieces found, this thing will be wired up hopefully in a few more days.
Gettin THAT much CLOSER!
#84
02-25-2012, 09:13 AM
Lead Driver
#87
02-26-2012, 08:48 PM
Rear brakes are '68 F100 drums (the complete rear axle was swapped in) which is a little bigger than the original Dana 44s. All rebuilt with new shoes,wheel cyls, and hardware.
Front is stock henry drums. All rebuilt, new shoes, wheel cyls and hardware.
Master cyl is a rebuilt stock henry unit, Single resivor.
Yeah probably not the best setup, but I think it will do just fine. I'm holding out for a front disc changeover with a drop axle. If and when i get that, I'll re-work the brake system to add in a dual resivor master cylinder.
If I can't find a disc brake/drop axle setup cheap enough (even used) this summer, most likely it's gonna get a MII front. Just didn't see the point in changing 1/2 of the stuff, just to have to go back and re-do it again for the other half. I'll know more how well the brakes will work once i get it out on the road. With the 390, I have my reservations.... we'll have to see.
Front is stock henry drums. All rebuilt, new shoes, wheel cyls and hardware.
Master cyl is a rebuilt stock henry unit, Single resivor.
Yeah probably not the best setup, but I think it will do just fine. I'm holding out for a front disc changeover with a drop axle. If and when i get that, I'll re-work the brake system to add in a dual resivor master cylinder.
If I can't find a disc brake/drop axle setup cheap enough (even used) this summer, most likely it's gonna get a MII front. Just didn't see the point in changing 1/2 of the stuff, just to have to go back and re-do it again for the other half. I'll know more how well the brakes will work once i get it out on the road. With the 390, I have my reservations.... we'll have to see.
#88
02-26-2012, 08:53 PM
#89
02-26-2012, 09:16 PM
Man i hope you didn't smoke your turn signal switch.
Look over the column's harness connector really well and make there's not shorts there or evidence of resistance (melted/deformed connector). The latter GM style coumn (key in column) had a good history for that.
Adding to my project thread--
Also ran into another problem with my cheap-o china column. Ended up with collapsed horn contact. The spring that holds up the horn button contact was garbage. As if they didn't even use spring steel for the spring itself. I had to tear into my brand new column and pull the switch out just a bit to take apart the horn contact in the switch. (sorry no pics with this one, i know I should have) Took the contact out and progressivly drilled out the hole in the bottom of the contact itself to accept a spring from a ball point pin. Trimmed the pen spring to length, reassembled the contact to the switch. Put all the rest of it back together and it seems to work fantastic. Even better then it was originally.
While I was back into the column, I decided to shave a little off the screw that holds the turn signal lever in. Even with that spacer ring i showed earlier on, it was still a bit close for my comfort. Taking a little material off the top of the screw made it a bit better. In reality, that spacer ring in the adapter kit really should be maybe another 1/8" thicker, just for good measure. Either way, seems good to go now.
Look over the column's harness connector really well and make there's not shorts there or evidence of resistance (melted/deformed connector). The latter GM style coumn (key in column) had a good history for that.
Adding to my project thread--
Also ran into another problem with my cheap-o china column. Ended up with collapsed horn contact. The spring that holds up the horn button contact was garbage. As if they didn't even use spring steel for the spring itself. I had to tear into my brand new column and pull the switch out just a bit to take apart the horn contact in the switch. (sorry no pics with this one, i know I should have) Took the contact out and progressivly drilled out the hole in the bottom of the contact itself to accept a spring from a ball point pin. Trimmed the pen spring to length, reassembled the contact to the switch. Put all the rest of it back together and it seems to work fantastic. Even better then it was originally.
While I was back into the column, I decided to shave a little off the screw that holds the turn signal lever in. Even with that spacer ring i showed earlier on, it was still a bit close for my comfort. Taking a little material off the top of the screw made it a bit better. In reality, that spacer ring in the adapter kit really should be maybe another 1/8" thicker, just for good measure. Either way, seems good to go now.
#90
02-26-2012, 10:07 PM
Posting Guru