4500??? heck for that it should be running AND stopping..look around there are better deals I got my 54 'for 1000... and less then 1500 for brakes and a gas tank an' other bit's..tires are a killer cause mine is a one ton..with your limitations ..time wise an all ..you can do better ..let the lust fade ..and find something you can both enjoy now ..a running half ton can be got for that kinda money..I just got a complete parts truck for 500...and it's in better shape then my driver..and you have to realise this is just my opinion..you do what you think is best for you..

 

I have to agree the initial purchase price should be way lower than that. My $5k was when the economy was real good - it run, it stopped, it did everything but have lights. The PO had already bought a wiring harness, and it was included in the deal. That is original flathead engine (in my opinion "worth" a lot more than one that has been upgraded - not harshing on the dark side here, just saying original engine and tranny are HARD to come by and to the purists, that makes the value higher). As far as value to the dark side folks - well whatever engine is in there is never big enough, if it was a 302 they'd want a 400, if it was a 400 they'd want a 460 :P There's no value in the non-original engine.

I'd advise to steer clear of haggling with the inlaws, look around for one of these parts trucks that some ole boy started and never finished, etc.

Heck, my grandad would probably part with his '47 if the mood was right and the offer was real polite and all.

 

Agreed with ^^^^^. I bought my 52 Panel for $5500. It was a home restoration that was a runner and had a 239 flathead.

That truck should be price around $3k.

 

In Az people are getting that kind of money for them... There are a lot of people from other places coming here to buy... Looking here I would say that that truck would go for $3500 to $4500... If you do plan on buying it I would offer $3k and hope to get it at about $3800, Some of the things that you have to do is remind him what it's going to cost to repair it, engine, trans, rear end... Also with you talking about a DD you may want to think about AC, much easier with a modern style motor...

 

com'on guy's ..a non stock ..non runner ..broke diff ..sitting for 20 years..it's a 500 dollar beater..at best ...

 

I overpaid for mine - $6,000 & it was running, lights worked, current license plate & state inspection (How it passed I have no idea). Why not sit back & look at Ebay or Autotrader or craigslist nationwide & see what's out there. Armed with that information determine what this truck is worth & discuss it with the seller. Just my 2 cents.

Ben in Austin

 

I don't think you can over-estimate the value of never-rusted sheet metal. Moe is right, AZ is Magic in that respect. If the front end is truly rust-free, that's worth $1500+ in avoided body work. No need to replace cab floors or corners, etc. For a full resto, I think a price in the mid-3,000's is reasonable. If you want a beater for high school, you can go cheaper, but it won't have as much up-side potential if you want a show truck later.

This assumes it is truly rust-free. Being in AZ does not guarantee that!!

 

OK, so I chimed in and said it was "too high" and can see an argument starting here easily if people start attacking each other's comments. So everybody remember we aren't here to argue about it with each other, but we are here to advise T - that's what he asked for right.

I took a deep breath and said to myself, what would I (me, myself, and the mouse in my pocket) pay for it if I wanted to buy it. I have to agree with a lot said above.

Ben you probably didn't overpay by much - mine was $1k less price , and it was $2k in wiring and lights less of a vehicle - though also running and plated. (I've never seen Ben's truck so take with a big grain of salt)

Ken, I agree for a vehicle in the non-original, non-running, broke diff category the value should be way down there, if not what you threw out then close.

I would give $1000 for it myself adding an extra $500 above Ken's figure only because it is an AZ truck... but it does snow in AZ, ever been to Sedona. Just cause it is AZ doesn't mean sam hill - look over every part and then answer to yourself if it really is an clean no-body-work truck. Your admission it has rust keeps me from going any higher - curious if it is just surface rust or how deep that goes. That $1k is drag away price, no asking him to get the engine to start or anything like that - just take "as is".

Anyone else who has or is going to throw a price out, please ask yourself what you yourself would pay for it - does that change your numbers at all (feel free to go back and edit )

If you buy it from him, I would swap the engine rather than rebuild, a working junk yard engine is gonna be a lot less time (and you will have years into it, rather not tack on a full extra year or two in engine work) - cost will probably be cheaper for the junk yard anyhow, machinists are $$$$.

 

So, if I read correctly the mechanic is a long time trusted friend of the in-laws and not actually related to you. They trust his judgment. You obviously do too or you wouldn't use him for your vehicles.

The truck is not worth $4500 in it's present condition. Offer him $1k (so as not to insult him being a friend of the family and all) because the body doesn't look too bad and see what happens. It's going to be a lot of work and money to make a show truck but, not so much to get a reliable daily driver if you do it yourself with your kid.

The beauty of these old trucks is that anyone with a modicum of mechanical ability (meaning you know a screwdriver from a wrench) can work on them with a little bit of help from books or friends. There are a few guys here that live in AZ and probably wouldn't mind helping out if you get into a jam.

 

You have a good relationship with this mechanic. Don't ruin it by getting into the restoration business deal with him. He may be honest, but obviously is not a restorer or he would have already tackled the job himself. He's estimating way high to cover his tail. For $20K you can buy a top quality restored truck at Barrett Jackson in Scottsdale. Do not give this guy the kind of money he's asking for. There are many project trucks out there that are partially done that you can get for cheap. Have you looked in FTE want ads? Good luck, Jag

 

Just the asking price tells me that the fellow really doesn't want to sell the truck. Add onto that the fact that he raises the price of getting it running and driveable everytime you talk to him, it seems to me like it is time to reach out a little farther in your search.

 

FYI, I went back and found this cause I remember the guy saying it was about $4500 asking as well - it was only a month or two ago so:
Here's a very recent example of what $4k should buy you... Granted, everyone's neighborhood is different and minor regional differences will dictate slight variations, but this should at least put the mechanic a bit more in his place .

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nt-advice.html

 

Just trying to get this guy to lower his price might be a losing proposition. First, if he truley believes that this truck is a $4500 vehicle, he's going to get insulted and refuse the offer. Then, for all future repair dealings he will be spiteful and load up the cost of the jobs causing hurt feelings for you. Eventually, you could lose your mechanic that you have developed such a good repour with and still not have a project truck. Good luck, Jag

 

I don't know if this is still available, but this looks like a better deal than previously mentioned. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...5-f-250-a.html You can send this guy a private message and see if it is sold yet. This is out of our own FTE classifieds. Jag

 

And, if you do as he suggests you will be throwing away half of the truck to put it on the rolling chassis. I think I would pass on this deal if you don't think he would come down on the price.