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E-fan install with some quirks - any help appreciated

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Old 08-27-2011, 09:23 PM
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E-fan install with some quirks - any help appreciated

Hey guys, how's everyone doing?

Here is the problem I am having. I am about to finish my engine bay and engine in the next few days. I have the fan out of a 94 T-bird (I think, its been several weeks) but it looks just like the MKVIII fan.

Anyway, in the middle of the build I took my radiator to be repaired due to some signs of leaking. He repaired it but gave it back saying that it won't handle anything over 9psi, so don't let it go over 9psi. Got it. 160* T-stat went into my block. This poses a problem for me.

Originally I was going to build my own controlling system similar to bullitt390 and akforceten but I wanted true automatic control of the hi/low speeds of the fan. Shouldnt have been a problem. HA!!

As near as I can tell, to do this I would need two temp switches for the hi and low controls of the fan, one switch controlling each speed, various relays and fuses and that would be that. The problem is that I cannot seem to find the individual parts necessary to do this and still keep the coolant pressure below 9psi. I am thinking that I would need a 176 on 161 off switch for low and a 185 on 176 off switch for high or something like that in order to keep the pressure down.

I am lost. I have been trolling various taurus/t-bird/mkviii fan installs across the web. I have been all over summit and jegs. I have looked at the DCC, Painless and Spal fan programmable fan controllers and I cannot seem to find the temp switches and 5 pole hi amp relays that I need as individual pieces. Anybody have part numbers?

I am leaning towards the Painless 30141 controller. Their site says that it was made for these fans and can handle the hi power requirements and the controller has the ability to control the two speeds for hi and low, but it only uses one wire for fan motor power? Maybe use the hi power wire and the controller controls it from there? Am I missing something? Below is the link to the installation manual.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30141.pdf

And to make matters worse, it needs to be a very clean install. After spending weeks cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay and even more weeks building a very clean engine, I am not looking forward to having to put odd stuff in there.

Anyway, that is my problem. I will post pics up of the engine bay and truck tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:53 PM
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I think you could clean up your install by using one controller, as you suggested, and wire it into the high speed circut for the fan.

here are the instructions for flex-a-lite fan controller PN 31165
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/31165-99943.pdf

it looks like this can be had for about 100 bucks.

according to the instructions, you can set whatever start temp you like between 155-220, at which point your fan starts at 60% and ramps up to 100% over the next 10 degrees above your preset.

the painless allows you to set both your start point and 100% point. but for the extra 100 bucks, i could live with a 10 degree preset, but it is up to you, of course.

good luck!
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:59 PM
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I'm not sure of the painless stuff but maybe might want to think about a new radiator if its can only take up to 9 psi. The painless manual says it's for a single speed fan so you would need two of them one for low an one for high. that's what i got out of reading the manual .
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:08 PM
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oh, i forgot to mention the radiator pressure.

to keep pressure down below 9 psi, you would need a 9 psi cap. the lowest cap i can find is a 13 psi cap.

the pressure in the cooling system is dictated entirely by the cap, so i dont think the t-stat will have any effect on your radiator pressure at all.

normal convention says that 160* is too cold for a street motor, and most will run better with 180* .... but some engines just run warm and will run at whatever they want regarless of what t-stat you put in it. again, it's your call, and no one knows your truck better than you.

I'd go back to your radiator guy and ask him where to get a 9 psi cap, since that is what he recommended. maybe you could find a "worn out" cap that will only pressure test to 9 psi? your radiator guy should be able to help you out with that as well.

worst case, you can leave you cap on the first notch until you can get it all sorted out.
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:21 PM
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pressure can be controlled by the radiator cap you put on, they come in a variety of pressures. If you want control of both speeds you can use one of the controllers (just make sure they are rated for the ford fan and not there fans which run on 30 amp) or do it with two relays (must be 50 amp relays) I like the ones from fordfeulinjection.com you can build them your self with whatever size wire you wish RJM Injection Tech — Relay Block w/ terminals and for the sensor you can reference this site Fan Switch Applications Search or use these available from summit- Summit Racing SUM-890017 - Summit Racing® Electric Fan Thermostat Sending Units - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:21 PM
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I think your radiator guy is coo coo. 9 psi is a no go. The cap is going to be 13 lbs. I think spec is 13 to 16 lbs. For a controller go with a delta current control. It's worth the money, and the wait, it can also handle the mark VIII fans power needs. http://www.dccontrol.com/
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:24 PM
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Also a mark VIII fan will fry the flexalite and painless controllers they aren't able to handle the amps drawn.
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:38 PM
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The radiator guy supplied a 9lb cap. I checked the cap, it says 9lbs. I wasnt tracking the minimum specs for the radiator though. This gives me nice ammo to use with my wife as a justification to buy a new radiator. WOOHOO, lets see if it works. If I can't buy new, what trucks should I look at for a used one at the yard?

The DCC controller is nice. I can't wait. I have to move to another state in 6-8 weeks and this truck needs to be driveable or I will have to pay to ship it. And their site just went down for a week. So there goes that idea.

Ironically, the products page for the painless controller says it can be used for these fans. That is why I was considering it. I posted the link to the manual, here is the link to the product page. At the bottom of the description is where it says it can be used with these fans.
Painless Performance: F5 Single 70 Amp Fan PWM Controller

I am still learning here, so any additional help is welcome. I forgot to mention that I am looking to use only screw in temp sensors. I DO NOT want to use a radiator probe.


Either way, this info is helping to solve my problem. Thanks guys,
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:53 PM
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You would use the flex-a-lite controllers to trigger the RELAYS which then turn the fan on and off. That way the relays take the brunt of the amps and not the controllers. Interesting the Painless is described for use for the Mark VIII, that's news to me. However, the fan is 2 speed and that controller is only good for 1 speed. Suppose they intend on not running low and only running a variable HIGH speed?

I personally think an automatic LOW and manual HIGH is more than enough. I believe it's been proven that LOW speed is more than enough and if the time ever came it isn't that big of a deal to just flip a switch to trigger High speed when needed.

But that's just me I suppose. I know it is waaaaaay overkill, but I am planning on installing a Mark VIII fan into my little Ranger and will do the automatic LOW and manual HIGH and just use a temperature switch from any assortment of late model cars, most likely a *gasp* Cadillac or Volkswagen for a 195 on-185 off or thereabouts.

Josh
 
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:37 AM
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If the painless one in now 70 amps you should be good. Before it could not handle the mark VIII they must have recently mad a change because I looked at those not 6mo ago when I ordered up my dc control.
 
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