^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THAT^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Get a Curt 1200# receiver & it will come with the hardware. Then drop your tank & install.

 

what are the differences between a curt 1200# and the OEM hitch ?

or what are the advantages of of the curt over OEM ?

I ask as I am getting ready to build a custom setup so just wondering about this curt hitch since I am not familiar with it.

 

Just looking at those 18mm because that's what it appears the new ex's have in them based on the write up. I can go with what ever bolt that will work and be strong enough, I don't mind if it's metric or not. My other question is does it weaken the hitch it self due to having to bore out the hole so the larger bolts will fit?

 

as far as a "strong enough" bolt goes... ya, that is sort of a critical thing to get correct. M18 ( or M20 ) sounds crazy overkill though. but in the end, you are the one making the modifications and therefore the one responsible for making sure you kill a bus full of nuns so do what you think is best.

 

It's only slightly more $ than the hardware the OP was quoted.
It's ratting is 12,000 / 1200 W/D or STRAIGHT PULL

 

all I could find was this $500 one but it is the same design as the OEM

Hitch Lookup for 2001 Ford Excursion 2WD or 4WD

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-hardware.html

This is the thread I was referring to with the size bolt differences

 

I got the Curt. I did not use their hardware. They describe leaving the tank in place. I would never try that myself. Dropping it was much easier to me. The 18mm is not the head size. It is the bolt diameter. I bought grade 8, 3/4" diameter bolts and nuts. The metric lock nuts worked. Metric was impossible to find for me.

If you shop/wait around, you can find the Curt for ~$200.

This is the thread I started for my install Here

 

CURT Receiver Hitches

<li abp="532">Color/Style Black/Receiver Hitch Only <li abp="534">Vehicle2000 Ford Excursion<li abp="536">SubmodelAll Excursion mdoels<li abp="538">AutoAnything SKU4000935<li abp="540">Part Number14011<li class="quantityColumnQty" style="height: 134px;" abp="542">1<li class="priceColumn" style="height: 134px;" abp="543"><li class="statusColumn" style="height: 134px;" abp="544"><li class="totalColumn" style="height: 134px;" abp="550">$231.99 Subtotal

• -$46.40 Promo Savings
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• $185.59 Total

 

Apparently not. The best factory rating is 6000/600 straight pull.
DON'T BUY IT THERE !!!

 

Where from?

 

EVERYTHING is going UP but MY income !!!
$211.00
<li abp="92">

• 2000 Ford Excursion (see all products) Change Vehicle
  
  
  
  
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FWIW to future and past readers,
On a hitch that says V5, that doesn't mean class 5. It designates the process used to determine how the hitch was rated.

Go look on a class 1 honda hitch, or something alike, you will still see V5.

Generally but pretty accurately speaking-

Class 1 is 1 1/4" on small cars and is rated at 2000 / 200#

Class 2 is 1 1/4" on small cars and small SUV'S and is rated at 3500 / 350#

Class 3 is 2" on medium SUVS, some full size cars (town car) pickups, vans etc and is usually rated at 5000 / 500 or 6000 / 600#

Class 4 is still 2" limited to full size vans, rarely SUVS, and pickups and is usually rated at 10000 / 1000 and sometimes higher. The 2" B&W reciever hitched are 15k / 1500 IIRC and still 2"x2".

In the day, Reese and Draw-tite only made class 5 hitches. They were 2.5" hitches and then we're rated for 14k / 1400 IIRC.

And Tork lift is in the game with some beefy super high rated offerings as well.

Now you see the big three offering class 5- 2.5" hitches stock.


The piece mounted to the vehicle is called a reciever hitch, the removable part that supports a ball is specifically called a ball mount.

Not that anyone cared.....

 

ARE U Kidding !! There was an entire thread devoted to the correct nomenclature ( it was left undecided ). AS U WELL KNOW

 

I just searched and couldn't find it, I do remember it vaguely.....
Do you have it bookmarked by chance??

Lol