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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 04:49 PM
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hey guys!

I performed this service on my 96 ranger 2wd 3.0L, and it seems to have made the clunck louder and happen more often.

any thoughts as to where I went wrong? or what else might be the problem?

also, not long after did I notice that the driveshaft was leaking oil from the pinion seal???

I'm very concerned, and fear the worst.

any help would be VERY appreciated!
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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 09:08 AM
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Question

OK guys, I notice that this thread started waaaaaaaaaaay back in I believe 03 so my questions is on my 01 Ranger AT, 4x4, Supercab, what would be the majority consensus on correcting the driveline thump when taking off?

1: Remove the driveshaft and grease or
2: Have the drive shaft replaced with the 4 inch aluminum one?
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 10:54 AM
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Why not try the grease first....it's the least expensive and it has worked for many of us.
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 01:15 PM
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pgw85706:

Thanks for ur reply. What I find frustrating about this is that it doesn't happen all the time. Would u know if either of the fixes mentioned addresses the slight delay when going into reverse? I figure if I get this fixed and the inaccurate gas guage reading, I should be good to go........
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 01:20 PM
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Rockledge has a great reputation on FTE.Rockledge has a great reputation on FTE.Rockledge has a great reputation on FTE.Rockledge has a great reputation on FTE.
A related question regarding the aluminum driveshaft is where to get one? I suppose you could pay Ford $400+ for a new one but that's not an option for me. I've been trying to find a used aluminum shaft locally for years but they are scarce. Moreover, a lot of the junk yards around here use large bucket-loaders with "forklift" type of attachments to move their stock around, and as a result the driveshafts of many of the vehicles get damaged.
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:48 PM
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Plus, with the aluminum shaft, wouldn't you still need to pay for balancing and I would estimate that to be $50-$100?

jc2566: Right, it does not happen all the time....but it usually happens after you've forgotten about it then when it does you think your rear end is gonna drop! I had so much piece of mind once I discovered here what the problem actually was and that it was not something more serious. Don't know about your question on reverse.
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 11:20 PM
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I Had A Ranger 98 4x4 4.0 Auto Whit The Same Problem A Jerk Or Bump When A Take Off Or When I Stop. I Want To Know How Much It Cost To Clean And Regrease The Driveshaft
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardo sandoval
I Had A Ranger 98 4x4 4.0 Auto Whit The Same Problem A Jerk Or Bump When A Take Off Or When I Stop. I Want To Know How Much It Cost To Clean And Regrease The Driveshaft
Call your local dealer service department and ask them to give you the price to perform the service as outlined in the TSB. Parts is $27 and I would guess 1 hour of labor at say $70/hr.

http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra..._Yoke_Lube.pdf
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katdaddy
Guys, can you send me a "how-to" to do this?

Thanks,
Kevin
please send me this info..
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTREV64
please send me this info..

RTREV64,

See the post by PGW85706 above yours. There's a hot link to the PDF file right in his post.

CMOS
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 06:22 PM
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Thumbs up

I used to have a 94 T-bird that had the same clunk at takeoff. My dad and I were replacing the fuel pump and had to drop the tank to do so. In the process while haveing the driveshaft out we lubed up the yoke and from there on the clunk was history. I was excited because that clunk aggravated the piss outta me. My ranger has slowly started doing it so here before long Im gonna do it to the ranger.
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2007, 05:18 PM
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Thank You Guys A I Will Be Grease The Driveshaft And Later I Tell You How It Go
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2007, 08:00 PM
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Hi
I just found this thread (Thanks to another forum user). I'd like to try that driveshaft lube trick, but the link seems to be dead. Anyone know of some step by step instructions, or possibly another URL with the information?

Thanks, really would like to give this a try on my 2000. That thumping really seems to be getting worse
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2007, 02:21 AM
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Had this in my files. Hope it is helpful. Will keep looking for original which was from Rockledge.

Russ

Well, here's what I just did to mine (2001 Edge, 4.0 with 4WD and automatic).
Match mark driveshaft with front and rear flanges to ensure reinstalling driveshaft in correct position.
Remove rear flange bolts (required 12mm box wrench).
Remove front flange bolts. I had to place trans in neutral to rotate shaft to get one bolt out. NOTE: set parking brake and chock wheels.
Remove driveshaft. NOTE: remainder is my own experience, YMMV IMHO etc.
Place shaft on a bench and remove the small clamp closest to the front u-joint. You shouldn't have to remove the rear clamp. Be careful not to tear the rubber boot.
Make sure the yoke and shaft have match marks so you can reinstall the yoke in the same position. Then just slide it out.
I wiped all the old grease off of it. Don't worry, it isn't much, as the original lube job was pathetic.
I used a teflon based synthetic grease from Valvoline. I stuffed quite a bit into the shaft, and spread it evenly out. Then I wiped some on the yoke, again evenly. Then I filled up the grooves in the boot. Replace the slip yoke and you can then "burp" out any excess air. I used two zip ties (heavy duty) instead of replacing the old clamp. I've done this twice now, and the ties work fine.
Reinstall the driveshaft in its original position. I used some medium strength Loctite on the shaft bolts to make sure the bolts don't back out.
It took me about 45 minutes from start to finish including cleanup. I used three quarters of a can of grease and two zip ties. And the truck again is brand new
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2007, 02:31 AM
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Here is the original link. Just tried it and it works.

Russ

http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra..._Yoke_Lube.pdf
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