Truck is a 1999 Ranger SuperCab 4.0 Aluminum driveshaft. By Extentioin seal, I mean the rear seal of the transmission. ( I have always referred to this seal as "extension housing seal")
I have a 98 supercab 4x4 with the famous thump. Having the extended warranty I had 3 new driveshafts put on. Each time the problem appeared to be fixed but would eventually come back. I just bought the kit and lubed the slip yoke splines last week after discovering this wonderful forum and no more thump!! I too was surprised how little grease was on the splines when I opened it up. The last time I was at the dealer I was told there was nothing they could do. I'm tempted to write a letter to the dealer explaining how I fixed this, since they didn't seem to know how. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and advise on this problem!
When I bought the truck not only did it have that terrible clunk\thump on acc\deceleration, but it was making this howling sound when ever gas was applied.
The howling appeared to be coming from the rear end. So I replaced the Center Bearing which holds up the drive shaft. That just made the howling quieter, but eventually started getting louder and louder.
Then I noticed some grease leaking from the differential where it meets the drive shaft.
Took the differential apart, and found 1/2 of a tooth missing from one of the gears.
Replaced the rear end. Fixed the howling.
Did not fix the clunk/thud. Which is really bad right now.
Been driving the truck with the wreckers/new differential for about 10,000km, and just recently noticed the same grease leak that I found with the old differential. Grease was leaking from the differential where it meets the driveshaft. I think it's called the pinion bushing or seal... The leak is coming from the very end of the differential closest to the engine.
After seeing this post I inspected my driveshaft for a boot because it was a 2wd, and I wasn't sure if this fix applied. After looking, I definitely found a boot that was actually closer to the tranny then the differential.
My initial suspicion about the old differential leak and the missing 1/2 tooth was that the tranny was installed incorrectly somehow, but now I'm not sure.
I guess what I'm wondering is whether or not this constant clunk/thud would ruin a differential and center bearing over time? Especially now that this new/wreckers differential that wasn't leaking now is.
I am preparing to perform the service to clean and grease the slip yoke spline as discussed in the thread and per the TSB 03-26-2. I intend to purchase the kit with the Molykote grease from the dealer.
My question is about the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the flanges at each end. I expect these to be very tight (even with using penetrating liquid) and the heads corroded so it will be important to have the correct tool for removal. Also, it is my normal practice to replace (where possible and practical) corroded bolts and screws with new and preferrably with high alloy stainless. Can someone please comment on my questions below (and I would really appreciate if Ken00 and Rockledge could reply). Thanks.
1. The flange bolts require a 12 point socket. What size?
2. What is the size of the threads and the length for these bolts?
3. Can you recommend an equivalent replacement? I would expect these would be high strength bolts to handle the shear loads. And a corrosiion resistant material is preferred.
Thank you.
Patrick
'99 Ranger Ext cab
4x4 with Off Road
3.0L, 5 sp manual
I believe the socket size of the 4 bolts at the flange (differential) are 12mm. Only hardware to replace is the boot clamps and possibly the boot if it is weather cracked.
I just replaced my carrier bearing this past weekend and while I was at it put in a set of greasable u-joints (3). Fairly cut and dry procedure, just make sure to mark the shaft front to back to make sure it goes back in the way it came out to keep the balance.
Performed the lubrication maintenace on the slip yoke splines per the TSB and used the Molykote EM-D110 grease purchased from Ford Parts. Splines were terribly dry. Driveshaft flange attachment bolts require a 12mm, 12pt socket. Wish I had the band crimping tool but I made do (the boot bands come with the tube of grease as a kit). Quick test drive showed favorable resutls. Finding this forum and thread sure has allowed me to eliminate this worry. All the posts and replies are very appreciated.
With tax $27.33. P/N = F87Z-4K277-AA. Grease and 2 bands.
I knew the price going in and wanted to balk particularly when you see the travel size toothpaste tube for the grease. But since the grease specification was changed in a TSB revision I figured Ford had done it's homework and worked with Dow to get the proper grease because spline gears require special consideration. So I went this way instead of a teflon grease. As it turned out, the travel size toothpaste tube of Molykote was more than sufficient quantity to do the job. I took great care to make sure all 3 surfaces of each spline received lubricant on both parts using a fine, clean tootbrush. Because of the tight fit of the spline, when you mate the two pieces together, much of the Molykote will push forward. But I believe this lubricant was selected because it does a good job to adhere to the surfaces of the splines after mating....you can tell in the grease "tackiness" on your fingers. Based on the terrible "dryness" of the spline when I opened it up, this is definitely a maintenance item that everyone needs to consider.
The bands for each end of the boot were included in the kit and as I mentioned I sure could have saved some time if I had the crimping tool. I don't have a good solution for crimping the bands absent the special tool. When I installed the bands, I took care to install them in the direction as the originals as I assumed that it matched to the shaft rotation.
I have some photos that I considered to post but I didn't think it could offer anything more that what is already in the TSB.
Performed the lubrication maintenace on the slip yoke splines per the TSB and used the Molykote EM-D110 grease purchased from Ford Parts. Splines were terribly dry. Driveshaft flange attachment bolts require a 12mm, 12pt socket. Wish I had the band crimping tool but I made do (the boot bands come with the tube of grease as a kit). Quick test drive showed favorable resutls. Finding this forum and thread sure has allowed me to eliminate this worry. All the posts and replies are very appreciated.
It's called a "cv joint boot clamp tightening wrench." I found one at napa for about $15. As for the snap on kind with the crimping knob (lack of a better word) just use a set of side cutters to crimp it down. That stainless steel is tough and will not cut easily.
Just as you say, I used the wire cutters to crimp the band except on the small shaft band the boot made it difficult to get the cutters underneath the "knob". Plus with the wire cutters, it tended to crimp in a uneven manner and made the band want to twist. I configured some "pinchers" using my channel locks and made do.
Ford does sell a kit for that problem its about $20.00 and it comes with a chromoly greae that works in all weather conditions and a new rubber boot and clamps. unles you plan on driving it under water you should only have to do this once or if you have to replace a ujoint.
