Quote: if I have the tools to set and remove the damper, I could put it on, tighten the front cover bolts, remove the damper attach the front motor mount and then reinstall the damper. Or am I missing something again? I guess the bolts that hold the front motor mount bracket also hold on front cover. If I could get the bracket on with the damper in place, then maybe I could just install the damper first and leave it in place.

What is the difference between a damper and a harmonic balancer? In '64 they only refer to a damper. The parts catalogs call it a balancer for '65 and up. Is there a difference? :End Quote:

You have it almost right. The mount cannot be installed or removed with damper in place. There is one bolt, think it is the bottom one on driver side, that doesnt clear the harmonic balancer/damper.

 

So, I could put the damper on for alignment, tighten all but one of the bolts, then remove the damper, then put in the last bolt, then reinstall the damper?

With the correct tools for removing and installing the damper, it doesn't sound too bad. An extra half hour, but if it prevents an oil leak, it may be worth it.

it would also be worth it to buy an alignment tool it one is to be had.

 

The bottom four cap screws couldnt be tightened unless the mount is in place. They secure the mount and lower part of cover. All but the bottom four can be tightened, and will secure the cover in position.

Before doing the cover/damper final instal, it would be a good idea to use the longer bolt and washers, put the damper on and see that everything needed is present. Otherwise the cover and gasket could be hanging while a run to the hardware store is made. This all sounds like a bunch of unnecessary activity, but that usually happens on any engine work that is a first experience.

 

Actually sounds about par to me. btw, when removing the capscrew from the end of the crankshaft, what is the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning. Last night when I was removing the clutch, cause it just happens to be time for a new clutch as well, I used the capscrew to turn over the engine. When I want to loosen the capscrew, how do I secure the engine? Put it in third with the parking brake on?

I was planning finish the clutch first anyway, but I guess I will have to, won't I?

 

You could always hit the stater when you have a socket and breaker bar on the damper bolt like Mike does... Wahahahaha

 

Howdy,



Maybe I missed something.........but why do anything to the camshaft, lifters etc with 100PSI compression.


The engine is pretty tired if that's all the compression you have. Nothing you do to the valve train will fix that...


Just saying.....


Rick

 

Going by this statement he has 140 psi. If he had tested it with the throttle WFO it might have been higher. I don't know what his situation is, I figured maybe he wants to drive it until he can rebuild the engine.

 

Clearly my reading skills are defective!!!

Camshaft wise......a flat cam will not affect compression a lot if the valves are opening even a little....

The 460 I pulled out of my boat had several flat lobes and STILL made 140-160 PSI but wouldn't make better than 4000RPM or so at WOT!


Sounds like he's on the right track!

 

Heeyyy there .

 

Just to clear things up. It does not appear to be the camshaft. I took it to a good local mechanic to make sure I was not missing something. There were a number of ignition problems, which he fixed, new dist. cap, wires, points condenser, coil, but he could not get the timing right.

Conclusion, the timing chain must have jumped a tooth. So, now the project is to replace the timing chain and the two sprockets. Not quite as much work as replacing the camshaft, but involving much of the same disassembly and reassembly.

 

That happened to my previously installed 239 Y.

It finally jumped far enough to where it was so "retarded" it would barely run even when I advanced the dist to get it to run.....

 

in this case the wires on the cap are all set off by one. When the wires are set correctly, it won't start at all, even with the wires off by one it can't be timed correctly.

So, I ordered the parts today, should have them by Tuesday and I hope to be back on the road before the Equinox.

 

It wouldn't matter IF you could get the ignition timed correctly. If it jumped a tooth your VALVE timing would be off in relation to the position of the pistons.

 

Can you ignore the timing marks and get it to a spot where it runs ok? Most Y-blocks have the timing marks on the damper which can slip over time. As a result, you might think you have the timing right when, in fact, you do not.

 

Yes you can,
I time using a vaccum gauge. Some folks just go by ear.