Re-Gearing + tons of questions!!!!!!!!
#1
Re-Gearing + tons of questions!!!!!!!!
Yah, looked up axle code 18 on my door jam and apparently its 3.08's. Im running 33's in the summer and 235's studded in the winter. Im all for re gearing and Im considerering 4.10's but will 4.10's fit a 3.08 carrier or will I need a new one?
how do i know my spline?
Do I need this?
JEGS Performance Products 60027 JEGS Ford Ring & Pinion Sets and Kits
or this?
JEGS Performance Products 60027K JEGS Ford Ring & Pinion Sets and Kits
Im getting a mechanic to do it but I just want to ask here for additional help.
Oh and I plan on gettn this...
L.P.W. 301-8.8 LPW Ultimate Rear End Support Covers
how do i know my spline?
Do I need this?
JEGS Performance Products 60027 JEGS Ford Ring & Pinion Sets and Kits
or this?
JEGS Performance Products 60027K JEGS Ford Ring & Pinion Sets and Kits
Im getting a mechanic to do it but I just want to ask here for additional help.
Oh and I plan on gettn this...
L.P.W. 301-8.8 LPW Ultimate Rear End Support Covers
#2
First off....You are running an open differential there bub....
So yes, the ring and pinion gear set will fit....Perfectly...
But then you'll still be doing a one wheel peel....
As for the gears themselves, since you run 35's, yet swap back to factory size too...
Then I wouldn't recommend the 4.10's...It'll drink the fuel....
So IMHO, a 3.73 will fit your needs....3.55's are great with factory tires....
Also, if you're gonna do a swap, and want a Limited Slip differential carrier...Be prepared to pay.....They run from $250-500 depending.....And usually don't have the ring gear and pinions with them....
If ya want a 3/55 LS setup, best bet (Cheaply) is to simply find another whole rear end...And simply swap it in....An evening project...
But the pulling the diff out, swapping it, gears, etc...Runs into $$$ FAST....After you pay the $125-250 for the parts...Then labor at $50+ an hour sets in....
Then it becomes even more headaches, because you'll need to find a competent mechanic that can set the rear end back up...Shimming it correctly....All the depth's, angles, etc...
But for fuel economy/wallet economy...A used rear end bought whole and swapped in will fit your needs...
Btw...Its a code H19 on the door tag....3.55 LS setup...
Simply cut/unbolt the U bolts, unhook the diff speed sensor (On top of the housing...Can't miss it), and unhook the brake line....Then simply swap out the rear ends, and then reverse the previous list...
Also, would be a great time to remove the cover, and clean the diff housing etc out...And replace the fluid...Then simply button it all back up..
So yes, the ring and pinion gear set will fit....Perfectly...
But then you'll still be doing a one wheel peel....
As for the gears themselves, since you run 35's, yet swap back to factory size too...
Then I wouldn't recommend the 4.10's...It'll drink the fuel....
So IMHO, a 3.73 will fit your needs....3.55's are great with factory tires....
Also, if you're gonna do a swap, and want a Limited Slip differential carrier...Be prepared to pay.....They run from $250-500 depending.....And usually don't have the ring gear and pinions with them....
If ya want a 3/55 LS setup, best bet (Cheaply) is to simply find another whole rear end...And simply swap it in....An evening project...
But the pulling the diff out, swapping it, gears, etc...Runs into $$$ FAST....After you pay the $125-250 for the parts...Then labor at $50+ an hour sets in....
Then it becomes even more headaches, because you'll need to find a competent mechanic that can set the rear end back up...Shimming it correctly....All the depth's, angles, etc...
But for fuel economy/wallet economy...A used rear end bought whole and swapped in will fit your needs...
Btw...Its a code H19 on the door tag....3.55 LS setup...
Simply cut/unbolt the U bolts, unhook the diff speed sensor (On top of the housing...Can't miss it), and unhook the brake line....Then simply swap out the rear ends, and then reverse the previous list...
Also, would be a great time to remove the cover, and clean the diff housing etc out...And replace the fluid...Then simply button it all back up..
#4
just pay attention to the tag code...A H19 is a LS 3.55 setup, a code 19 is a 3.55 Open.....see what I mean?
But you can get the 3.55's, and have the clutch packs replaced fairly cheaply, and depending on how they were in order and rearranged...Can make it a soft locking diff (I.E you don't even feel it kick in/out) or a hard locking setup (Jarrs yer teeth out)....
All the ring gears, etc will interchange, as long as its on the 8.8" platform....So, technically, you can get a 3.55 LS whole rear end (Usually costs around $100-150 at a JY) and while you're replacing/putting the clutches in order....Simply do a ring/pinion swap to a 3.73....
And VOILA!...You have a 3.73 LS, and a extra set of rings to donate...To me....
Just a thought...
#6
Welcome man....I just can't justify $700 for a 3.55 LS diff....When I can pick up one locally for a FRACTION of the cost...
I've got the crappy 3.08's right now...and MAN do they suck...
And of course...My dad has a truck with a H19 axle...And won't swap me...(He never hauls much...)....
With a 3.55 LS, my lil 300 would be just right....
I've got the crappy 3.08's right now...and MAN do they suck...
And of course...My dad has a truck with a H19 axle...And won't swap me...(He never hauls much...)....
With a 3.55 LS, my lil 300 would be just right....
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