If you are getting sparks, then I wouldn't worry about the ignition yet. I second what folks are saying about the carb. Rebuild kit is less than $30 and will not take you more than a couple of hours to do it. Considering you are pushing about 6 lbs of fuel pressure, it may have bent the float? Anyways, I would rebuild the carb. Your seals are probably all dried out as well.

 

Nothing I see on the net says that this is an internal resistor coil. I would assume you need one. Here is a good one, 1.8 ohm:

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...132063183&An=0

Another that is 1.2 ohm:

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...158170221&An=0

Are you using a modern Ford starter solenoid with 4 terminals (2 big/2 small)? If so, do you have a wire from the solenoid's "I" terminal to the coil (+) terminal?

 

Yes, using a 4 terminal solenoid. No right now nothing is attached to the solenoid I terminal (painless kit was pretty clear you only use that IF you have a ballast resistor - right now I don't). I found another forum (parts retailer) where the parts pros also indicate that the accel 8104c requires a ballast resistor. I am going to add a ballast resistor, and I plan on wiring up as painless suggests - hot lead (pink) to one side of ballast resistor, and other side of ballast to both I terminal on solenoid and coil +.

I really have hesitated to tear into the carb because a lot of old school wisdom is that people fiddle with the carb too much always looking at it first, when usually it is something else. I'm still going to hit timing and compression first as they are easy, but it is now much easier to suspect carb after 8 years of drying out (I figure it really was just debris that got me originally). I hate the 10% ethanol law now

 

The carb should be gone through for sure- garrantee that a lot of very small fuel and air passages are gunked up- especially the idle system, since its been sitting just a lot of old fuel varnish will bugger it up. If it fires and want to run its not ignition IMO. Messed up idle mixtures due to debries and or plugged passages is quite likely. A high fuel pressure could over ride the needle and seat causing flooding as well.

 

Don't be intimidated by that carb rebuild, and where did you find this theory of 90% of the time it's something else?

Everybody here is pointing at that carb, you are gonna be smacking yourself when you find out that it sat there 8 years because of a little sediment inside the carb. , and also because you listened to some theory out there on the world wide web and you didn't follow some extremely experienced advice from the guys here on the forum.

I'm not trying to down you at all, just trying to help!
Get that carb done. I would say there is a 90% chance that these guys are right! good luck! Jeff

 

It's has been my experience that the carb is the culprit. My own Holley 4 bbl was so gummed up after sitting for only 5 years that the secondaries and fuel pump would not move. Fortunately it was repairable and only cost me $115.00 to rebuild. Much less expensive than a new carb.

We removed almost a gallon of rust and sediment from the bottom of the fuel tank and the float bowls had some in them even though there was a filter in-line between the pump and carb.

Waiting for the engine builder to make some modifications to their Dyno and/or my bell housing to see how it works.

 

take your carb apart and clean it. 8 yrs is too long for it to sit. If I can do it, you can too. Buy a good kit, get a dip can from a FLAPS and go for it.

 

Dip can is the best, but a couple of spray can will work too. Just to share a story, wear an eye protection. When I was rebuilding a single barrel on an old dodge flathead, I shot through a passage and it came right back out through the hole next to it. Fortunately I was right next to a faucet and was able to run the water for literally about 10 minutes. (Learning lessons as we go...)

BTW, rebuilding that thing is not that complicated. Literally the only thing to adjust is the float height. The rest is unscrew, clean, and rescrew deal. I hear people worrying about play in the butterfly shaft, but never really had issues so far.

 

Even just parked over a winter carbs need to be cleaned. It doesn't take much to varnish um up.

also, NEVER EVER EVER EVER clean out a jet or passage with wire. Those holes and passages are a particular size for a reason, and a wire WILL enlarge them causing all sorts of headaches. soak in carb cleaner and plenty of compressed air, but NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER a wire! If you REALLY have to, use a bristle from a fine synthetic brush. NEVER wire or metal. Did i say NEVER metal or wire?

 

I was just playing with my 65 T-bird ..with MSD ignition ..and when I try jumping the starter switch it fires and runs with the ignition off.till I let go of the jumper ..is your's doing the same thing ..fires up and stop when you let go of the starter ?? might just be a ignition problem..you are getting fuel .."plugs are wet " you have spark while cranking ..still before opening the carb ..compression ,timing ..then fuel ,,I got my 54 running by pouring gas down her carb to idle with a totaly plugged carb ..check the simple stuff first..

 

Ok I promised today I would get out there, and I did and I checked one thing while I was under the hood for other things. (I am closing up all the piddly little loose ends before putting the headliner in). when you pump the pedal it gets a nice misting of gas - someone had asked that question.
As far as the 90% rule - that comes from a professional carb shop (he also preaches that when adjusting change ONE thing at a time, and never more than one even if you know you have 5 things you need to adjust)... sounds like a racer to me :P

Anyhow, I am definitely planning on rebuilding the carb (for the sat 8 years reason), kit is on order so it should get here about the time all the headliner and carpet are done. Jim, I see a light at the end of the tunnel

Oh dumb question - anyone have experience adjusting the jets for 10% ethanol (bigger right) and altitude (smaller)... is it worth it to mess? I googled up the air density of my digs here (5280, 100 degrees and zero humidity), and bandimere (nearest speedway)... the aforementioned carb expert's fomula says I should change the jets 6 sizes (winter) to 8 sizes (summer)... that sounds wow big change in my mind.

 

make sure the fuel tank is free of debris. good idea to pull fuel line --at tank-- and drain some through paint filter. will tell you right away if there is rust. i think it would be wise to get truck running before investing money in jets. once all is back together, then you can experiment. suggest using sta-bil in fuel once all is said and done. will help prevent varnish and gum issues and keep seals in good shape. just my 2 cents

 

I know that you could let 100% gas sit indefinitely - from both experience (more grandads than mine) and lab/gov documentation... but most people don't know that E10 has a maximum shelf life of 3 months and a typical best practice is no more than 3 weeks. No wonders the small engine repair (lawnmower, chainsaw), marine, and seaonal vehicle (motorhome) people HATE e10 with a passion. I plan on putting something in the fuel, don't know that marine sta-bil is #1 choice - but so far it is the front runner.

Oh I have already gone through fuel system and replaced all the lines and added a marine quality filter (the little window screening just did not seem up to modern specs considering all the crap the gov now puts in fuel and the fact that e10 loosens anything in the tank and sends it into the system).

I ask about changing jet sizes because I am a "do it once, and do it right" kind of guy, rather not go through a whole carb tear down and rebuild to do it 30 times more experimenting with jet sizes. I'd like to put in the right jet size for modern fuel and my driving conditions and be done with it. I want to drive my truck, not play with it in the garage.

I'm off to the shop for the day, will see if I can get compression and timing checked amongst all the other stuff I am doing.

 

sta-bil makes a product for e-fuel. as for jets?even after all your calculations, what if truck does not like it?? you may have to go one size smaller or larger to find the right combination.

 

WELL >>WHAT HAPPENED ..is it running ?? compression is ??timing ..good news ??