I have a 1994 E-150 Centaurus conversion van. For some reason the indirect, reading lights, and the tv/vcr aren't working. Everything was working and then all of a sudden everything wouldn't come on anymore. We have check the fuses and they all look good. Is there anything else that I can check to get everything working again?

Thank you!!!!

 

i have a 93 E-150 Centaurus conversion van
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for the conversion there are 2 fuse locations one beside the middle row drivers side seat in a lil door you have to put your hand down there to find them. and there are the fuses above your head to the right when in driver seat

if all of them are good then check the van fuse box then start checking wire if not that

let me know if that helps

 

Fuses "looking good" doesn't mean anything. They need to be electrically checked, not visually checked.

 

I checked all of the fuse boxes in the van and they all seem good. Guess its time to start checking wires?

How do I electrically check the fuses?

Thanks!

 

With a meter. With the fuses installed and the key on there should be 12 volts on each side of the fuse. If you take the fuses out check for continuity across the fuse.

 

Actually the fuses do not need to be out. You can do continuity test across the back of the fuse with the key off. It is actually the fastest method if your meter has an audible chirp for continuity.

 

Not true at all! Fuses in automotive circuits that are tested while still in place can "back feed" through their affected circuits leading one to believe the fuse is fine.

As Mark K says test for voltage on either side OR remove the fuse to test for continuity with a meter. Many a fuse "just looked at" has/will test bad with a meter.

 

I will take your word for a "feedback" through the load on a DC circuit, although I must say in all the many years I have done this I have never had a blown fuse show continuity through a feedback, which I can actually see happening on a circuit that is normally hot all the time, other than that though....

 

Deal with it as you will---I'm simply saying fuses CAN NOT be diagnosed properly without a continuity test out of the vehicle. Also with a lot of years, many times fooled by blade and glass fuses looking fine but still showing open circuit when properly tested.

 

Are you checking the fuses in the extra fusebox/boxes that the converter added? They might have tapped the positive lead on the battery for all of their aux added circuits. Sounds like the problems are all with the stuff added by the converter and there could be a very basic problem with their add-on electric stuff. With added wiring like this, there could be an issue like a wire passing thru a sheet metal hole with no grommet or a lost grommet having been chewed through, etc.

Conversion quality is not always to OEM standards (I have owned 5 conversion vans over 30 years). I know for my most recent van, there was even a diagram showing the fuse locations. You may find something on line even though the converter is probably long out of business.

Good luck,
George

 

so tell me, How do you tell what brand of converson I have???? I hve no books, manuals, nothing. so just by guess and by golly to find out what things do when you flip the switch. and I have amissing Inverter as well and not sure just what else is supposed to be there.

 

Most large scale commercial converters had graphics on the van showing boldly somewhere. (Starcraft, Imperial, d'Elegant, etc). Mine also had the converter name on the weight sticker in one of the door jambs (maybe the rear door?) because the payload was reduced from the original cargo box. Most converters are long out of business because the market for conversion vans has dried up.

Many conversions were done by their owners or by small independent shops and may have NO information anywhere. We had one of our Turtle Top conversions pretty much redone by a local shop. In that case, it's like you bought a house that was built or modified by someone and you get to trace any and all wiring, plumbing, etc.

There is a major advantage in terms of servicing to have bought a Ford-built Club Wagon. A conversion can be like a science project and might have been done by someone who had no clue what they were doing...

Good luck,
George

 

Thanks you YoGeorge, good information. I will look more today. lots to do the get this van reliable. Horn and cruse control not working. the two left gauges are reading wrong. lts like they start at the half way point and move up from there. so the oil pressure pegs its self when at highway speeds. temp shows 3/4 the way to HOT. some wiring issues for the TV. and a tie down system. not much but gives this tired old body something to try and do.