My clutch pedal is sticking at about halfway, but the clutch itself is fine. The pedal will stick for about 5 seconds and then BOINK back to the normal position. I read that article for the Hydraulic Clutch Troubleshooting here and so I went out and replaced the Push Rod Bushing because Lo and Behold mine was split in half.

So after I installed the new bushing, problem persisted. Now this is what I have done to my clutch.

I have installed the most heavy duty clutch, flywheel. Master has no leaks but the rear seal had a minor leak, got it fixed.

Clutch fluid is always maintained so I don't know what could be causing this.

Although I have one suggestion, although it might sound rather dumb, but here it is:

Since I have a new (2 months ago) heavy duty clutch, and flywheel, could it be that the little spring under the pedal needs to be replaced with a more tense or heavy duty one? That's the only thing I can think of due to everything I maintain/replaced.

Help it's really annoying. Sometimes I have to bring it back up with my foot.

Oh also if it helps, I did not do this before new clutch install. Also NOW there is some play in the pedal, about a inch or 2 of play before you feeling moderate pressure.

 

Look underneath the dashboard up above the gas pedal.
You will see the clutch master cylinder pushrod coming through the firewall.

There is a four fingered white plastic bushing connecting the clutch pedal arm to the "eye" at the end of the pushrod.
When this little plastic retainer fails you will get this exact symptom.

You can get the clip as part of an assortment in the Dorman HELP section of most auto parts stores.
Dorman #14041

 

Mine has a leak DOWN IN THE TRANNY...

And if I go out and push the clutch completely down, it'll hang...Then pop back up....Doesn't do it if I pump the pedal 3-5 times...

Also...Have someone push the pedal down, and go look at the firewall behind the clutchs' Master Cylinder...Sometimes the metal around the mouning area gets weak and flexes...Then breaks away allowing the whol M/C to move forwards....

Ford has a fix for it..It's a $20 part...

Sounds like my issue...Which is either the clutch line leaking, or the Slave Cylinder leaking...

 

I didnt see you say anything about replacing the slave cylinder, i had about the same issue with mine and the pedal wouldnt return to normal, eventually it wouldnt come back at all. The salve cylinder was leaking but you couldnt see it until you took the inspection plate off. Could be your issue, something worth checking anyway.

 

Let's start with the cheap and obvious problems before thinking the worst.

As I said, the symptoms mimic the bushing perfectly.
If the pin on the arm has a flat spot or groove worn in it the new replacement bushing will crack almost instantly.
The arm can be replaced. I don't know the Ford P/N for a 1994 though.
Another place to look is at the bushings where the pedal crossover shaft pass through the pedal support.

I've never had the overcenter spring give me any trouble.

 

Well jim...mines F-ed up....I know this...

Slave/Line is leaking...No doubt about that....It uses about a cylinder full per week....

And the bushings are gone from the assembley....SO my pedal is sorta floppy.....I'll be ordering that bushing kit soon...it's like $15 from LMC...

 

Wesley,
Are you losing fluid inside the bellhousing at the release bearing or where the line passes through?

 

Ok, as ArdWrknTrk said, I have replaced the bushing with a new one. But I didn't really check the pedal crossover shaft passes through the pedal support. Will do today.

Ah yes, cabloom300, I forgot to mention the slave did have a slight leak, but also go fixed.
Guess I could look into it again.

Sidewinder, I haven't had anyone push the pedal while I was looking at the Master, but I will do that as I forgot about the whole mount having problems after wear and tear.

Also a little more insight, the PO (college student) abused this thing, well clutch wise, body is near perfect, anyways back to what I was saying about the clutch, the guy apparently didn't treat the clutch right because when I installed my new one, the old one has huge heat spots/warps, same for the flywheel. Which is when I found out about the leaks.

 

Definitely check for firewall flex/tearing.

You'd be startled by how much the M/C moves even without tears if it doesn't have that $15 brace.

 

Ok I'll check the pedal shafts, firewall, and if everything is good on those points, I'll check the slave. I guess it could be inside because there are no dots where I park.

Thanks for the info on where to look, and I'll let you all know what happens when I check these points.

 

Jim-Its dry as a desert everywhere...So it HAS to be the clutch line....Or the slave cylinder leaking....One or the other...or both...

 

Wesley,
Isn't an I6 the same bellhousing pattern and internal slave as you see behind a Windsor?
(460's and diesels have a throwout arm and external slave.)

Do you have the M5OD or the ZF gearbox?

 

Mazda...The Clutch fluid line disappears into the upper d/s of the tranny bell housing...Has a funky lil clip to remove, etc....

 

Ok guys, I checked to the see if the M/C is flexing, and indeed it is! But not very much, well to tell you the truth I don't really know what much is, but anyways it will flex about half an inch on the top.

So would that brace from Ford fix that? If so I will get it for sure!

Also there are no leaks in the cab around the pedals, and there are no leaks around the M/C. So I'm at a loss.

Help!!

 

Alec94,

What do you see if you're looking at the clutch master cylinder pushrod and work the pedal with your hand?
Is there any play anywhere?
Does the arm on the end of the shaft move around? Or the entire shaft shift position?
Is that little POS plastic bushing cracked again?

I would always install the brace if there isn't one.
Flexing like that will eventually break the spot welds at the tunnel and/or tear the firewall.
You say you see only 1/2" of movement, but that's 1/2" that is not being used to disengage your clutch.