This is a follow up to a previous radiator thread.
My rad is shot!
Core measures the same as one for 302 or 6 cyl.
Why my 360/90 has this small rad. in it is beyond me.
Broncograveyard has the same size listed for 6 cyl.
I have got to get out cheap. No new super cool shroud or anything...
My question
Would it be a mistake to install a new rad. that is listed for a 6 cyl. in my 73 360/90 V8 AT??
Obviously it has had that same rad. if core measurements mean anything.
Thanks men

 

Are you sure its the radiator thats shot? I didnt see the previous "radiator" thread but have you checked the thermostat and pump? Is the radiator leaking? Have you drained it and looked inside to see of the core is plugged? If its plugged a shop can boil it out for you.

 

Assuming you have no coolant leaks anywhere else in the system (rad hoses, heater core, etc) This is what I did to solve my cooling problems:

Radiator flush: No need to by a product to do this, just pull the rad and flush it out really good with a garden hose. If it looks really crummy inside, take V10Crew's advice and get that sucker cleaned out by a radiator shop. It should be pretty cheap.

While the system is drained...

Check your thermostat: Remove the t-stat throw it in a pot of water and slowly bring it to a boil. Keep an eye on it with a meat thermometer to see what temp it opens at. If in doubt, replace it with a high quality balanced thermostat. This was the first change I made (along with a coolant exchange) and it made a world of difference.

Replace your radiator cap: These things are cheap and don't last forever. Get the factory PSI rating or no more than 1-2psi higher. If you get a super-duper high pressure cap, you can cause other problems in the cooling system (ask me how I know )

Engine block flush: If your coolant is super rusty, chances are there is rust inside the block. With the block cold and the thermostat and lower rad hose removed, use a garden hose to flush out the block, top to bottom. Again, no real need to buy a product to do this unless you really feel the need to give something a shot.

Coolant exchange: When you refill your coolant, swap it out with 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water (or whatever your preferred mix is for your climate) and a bottle of RedLine WaterWetter (seriously, this stuff is awesome.) I run 25/75 coolant to distilled water +1 bottle of wetter, but I'm in California.

From your previous thread: GOTTA get a radiator! Size advice needed (pics)

Try to figure out where the coolant is getting out of the system. Where is the water going? Are you seeing it puddle anywhere? Is that blueish-white on the front of the radiator possibly corrosion from a leak?

LMC has a decent set of dimensions listed in there catalog for radiator sizing: LMC Truck 1973-1979 Ford Truck 1978-1979 Ford Bronco, Page 37 "COOLING"

Hope some of this helps!

 

sorry guys, yeah I did'nt mention it was leaking like crazy!I've tried to nurse it along,
It has a big split in the top tank and the bottom too.
It;s gone.
Been putting in gallon every ten to 15 miles.

I am just concerned that every big block has a big radiator.Mine measures the same as for a 6 cyl or 302.
It's been in it for the 15 years I've had this truck. The super cool would have to bolt up to the other holes and I would need different shroud.(and more money)
Just want a bolt in replacement but was concerned about the small size for my engine.
Can't spend too much more on the poor old thing.
Thanks for the help!!!!
Guess I should mention this is the first time it boiled on me ever.I had just topped it off at work and stopped by a store and when I came out there was a unusually big puddle. Then when I got home and parked she was hissing like crazy. I can usually top it of and be okay but not this time.

 

The engine in your truck is larger than a six or 302. Therefor it can generate more heat. Therefore it needs more cooling. You need a larger radiator than for a six or 302.

 

right...but my core measurment is that of a 302 or 6cyl, that's what confuses me.
Bottom line, I feel if I don't get the same size rad, a different one won't bolt up right or something.
I was thinking about a jy one out of a 75 360. I measured the bolt hole width and it did not match my frame.I also noticed that the frame in 75 was open all the way to end of radiator. I have extra bolt holes that look like they would accomodate a wider rad. but my frame is only open to the width of my existing rad. A frekin' 23 1/2" wide one.
Appreciate it guys.

 

Personally, I would buy the right radiator for the truck and then:

a) adapt your current shroud to the (new) correct radiator
b) wait until you can afford a new shroud or watch the junkyard for a used one
c) eliminate the fan and do the TBird/MkVii electric fan conversion

The AT/MT radiator thing is not something to worry about unless you have an automatic transmission. The AT radiator has a heat exchanger built into the bottom tank that gets connected to the transmission to help it warm up faster and stay cooler. You can install a AT radiator in an MT truck, but you cannot install an MT radiator in an AT truck unless you add an additional transmission cooler. AT radiator will usually be more expensive due to complexity, don't get one if you don't need one.

That's my $0.02. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

Well I guess that's it then...I don't know what is the right radiator for my truck.
If I go by core measurements it ends up matching the 6cyl/302.
I'm baffled.
THX

 

Rusty, I just noticed something... your profile says you have an 73 F100 with a FE in it... did it come that way from the factory? What does your door tag say? You also said in the other thread something about the previous owner swapping in the FE?

If it came from the factory with a smallblock or a 6cyl, that would explain the smaller opening and smaller radiator. You may want to get the correct bigblock FE v8 radiator and then modify your core support for the larger radiator? That 75 in the junkyard would be an excellent vehicle to steal parts from!! The 360 and 390 both use the same sized radiators!

You may have the RIGHT radiator for the truck, but the WRONG radiator for the engine!

 

Yeah I think that's the missing element. The sales guy said two things 15 years ago.
"That's a new radiator" and "Thats a 79 engine"
Only thing is, my motor has breaker points.
Gonna go check door tag right now.

I did,]'nt see anything that told of motor on tag. My truck also has a C6 AT. Would not have been used
with small block right?
Also, does FE mean factory engine? Sorry
Hey DB
you posted the link to the other thread...in those pics you see the other bolt holes??
The width of the jy 75 holes did not match these.

 

FE is the designation for the 352-360-390-427 big block family of engines. Ford built them from the mid 50's up until I believe 1976. If its actually a 79 engine, its not an FE. Breaker points ignition could be from a previous year when whomever did the swap. Sounds like we have an engine to identify

I can't tell from the pics in your other thread, but I did notice your valve covers are shaped differently than what I remember of mine, and they still have a white sticker on the side. If you can read that sticker, it might say something about what series engine that is... assuming they are the original valve covers for that engine...

Also see if you can find a part number on the top of the intake manifold. It should start with something like D7TE or C9ZF or E1TT or something. We might be able to google that part number and at least tell you what series engine you have.

Example: C4AE-9425-E is a 1964 427 intake for (IIRC) a Galaxy? I'm sure someone will correct me here in a second

When I get home tonight, I'll measure the distance between the holes and post it up for ya!

 

wow thanks man...I'll look for that tommorow and get back to you.
You and the others are right. Should'nt waist time and money on that small radiator. Might go check out that 75 F150 jy again. So it would be possible to drill new holes in the frame for the wider rad? With ordinary tools?
Might get my brother to help. Even full of water the needle runs about 5/8 of the way up. Funny thing the needle has never worked until I fixed it just recently.
And I've hated it ever since! lol
Thanks so much! This site rocks!

(I'll post what I find about the engine on this same thread)

 

Okay DB
D4TE9425B2 on manifold.

Went and checked the '75jy and it had some rot.
Lowest dollar I can find is AZ for $135. It has plastic tanks.
Would plastic tanks be alright?
AZ said core was 26.37 wide
Don't understand why the 26 1/4 or 26 3/8 different cores sizes listed for these.
How could 1/8 inch make a difference in a radiator width?
Would this affect the bolt hole width?

BTW when I looked in there today the split at the top tank really
was bulged outward. It simply blew apart at top.
Guage luckily never reached all the way to H

 

I measured it this morning, and the core support opening on my truck is approximately 27-1/2" wide by 18" tall. I have a bunch of AC junk in the way so its hard to get really good measurements/pictures. Turns out my radiator is rear flange mount, but I have the massive Camper Special cooling package radiator, so all bets are off. I probably don't have the best truck to be comparing things against.

Anyway, here is my core support opening:





And the radiator rear mount:

 

So that would put those holes about 28 1/2 apart then.
Did you see my part number post?
The 75 holes did measure right. I must have mis-measured the first time.
Looks like I'll try the AZ plastic tank one and rig the shroud.
My only concern is my cut out is for the small width. The wider one would be partially covered by the frame about 3 inches.
Is this a big deal?
THX