My 2004 F-150 was at 94,000 miles. It has been giving a code showing lack of cat efficiency. And there have been a few times where the idle got bit rough. Decided to change the sparkplugs. Not sure if there are any correlations, but figured that it was time anyhow.

Ford dealer wanted $375 base cost with an additional $45 per broken spark plug.

I got the Lisle extractor tool that everyone raves about on amazon. Also got the champion one piece plugs as well as the special socket. My cost was $175

Only three plugs broke; one left the entire tip and two only left the metal tip part. The extractor did its job and the tips were extracted without any hassles.

I did not have to remove anything from the engine and the only sparkplug that was tough to get to was the rear one on the passenger side.

That would have been at least $510 at the dealer

Oh yeah, she ran rough when I first started her, but I disconnected the neg terminal and she started up fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do, but it has always worked on previous vehicles.

 

I have 80,000 on my 04 and have been bitting my nails over this plug change. Seems like if you have the right tools and take your time, all should be good. Glad to see you had success, and saved some cash !!

 

Scoony, Congrats on doing the job yourself. I took on the job on my 06 at 67K without a whole lot of knowledge other than that there was a problem and possiblity of breaking a plug. I figured I would sidestep the broken plug issue with only 67k.... so when I broke #2 I was crushed. I am a 40 year old father` of two and at the time had about $300 to my name. I had tears in my eyes, all I could think about was the 2-4 thousand dollars for headwork I did not have. I was not prepared with the lisle tool or proper procedure. Thanks to a few guys on this site(Bridge) and much wringing of fist. I was able to get the job done. I am glad yours was not so epic. BTW that #4 plug is not so much of a PITA if you remove the battery and ECU. Only takes a few more minuites but the back of your hands will thank you. Good Luck bwep let us know when you take yours on at 80,000 you are getting close! Shawn

 

Which I would have thought about the battery and ECU. My hands are not happy.

 

Did you use hand tools to remove the plugs or a 3/8" impact gun as some have used before?I'm looking to do my plugs this weekend and I'm looking for some input.I've got all the much needed parts and lots of time.

Terry

 

I would think that an impact gun would increase the breakage rate, but then that's only a guess.

 

Just as a follow up:

Prior to changing my sparkplugs I had the check engine light come on. The code was for inefficiency of the Bank 1 cats. The charge was going to be $500 to replace them. I figured that something must have been causing the code. The engine also had a very slight miss that was barely determinable.

Since I have been driving it after replacing the plugs, that check engine light has gone off, so I guess the cats are good and that slight miss is gone.

 

Two words Aero Kroil!!! Near zero breakage when using it!!Only time I have broken one is when I failed to wait for it to soak (needs at least an hour overnight is even better!) lots of members have reported success with it!

 

How is everyone breaking plugs?? putting them in or taking them out?? I'm new at this and getting ready to tackle the task. I take it one sprays the Aero Kroil after one takes the coil assembly off? Or before?

 

they break off taking them out. Don't tackle the job before you have an extraction tool. Lisle makes the one most guys on here talk about. Do a search on this forum for "5.4L spark plug change" and you'll get the idea real quick.

here's the extraction tool: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600.../dp/B00267PZUK

You'll probably want this too, it's not a typical spark plug socket size:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6900-F-150...xgy_auto_img_b

 

Thanks for the tips!!!

 

I posted my experience here along with Beechkid's post
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...re-i-used.html

No broken plugs. Trick is not to brute force those plugs out. I also used Kroil.

 

Here's how I replace them.



Ford 5.4 Liter 3 Valve Spark Plug Removal - YouTube

 

I just watched your video on the plug removal...slick. I then watched the master cylinder bench bleed...also slick.

One question about the plug removal. Some posters here suggest running a cleaner (seafoam?) through a vacuum line to remove carbon from the exposed portion of the spark plug. Any thoughts on this?

 

Last month I changed the spark plugs in my 5.4L, 3v, 2005 F-150 Super Crew 4x4, with 21,000 miles. I use regular gas that I often purchase at Sam’s Club.

No special tools were required but I purchased the Lisle 65600 broken spark plug remover as an insurance policy. I am not a mechanic. Most anyone with a few tools should be able to change the spark plugs.

The following method worked for me.

Approximately one month prior to removal I added a 6oz bottle of inexpensive Super Tech fuel injector cleaner purchased at Walmart at each fill up. The week before the removal I added 6oz of Startron stabilizer (cleaner) to the fuel tank.

I began by parking my truck in the garage. I placed blankets over the front of the engine compartment to allow more comfort. I worked from a step stool since I have a 4x4.

I blew out around the COP’s (coil on plugs) to remove accumulated material with an air hose and compressor.

I removed the battery terminals and battery box. I removed the three computer wiring bundles located on the passenger side of the firewall. A lever disconnects each connection. Move the wring out of the way. Remove the computer (4 bolts) using a 10mm socket. Remove the computer bracket (3 bolts) using a 10mm socket.

I labeled the 8 COP’s with a number 1 through 8 to ease replacement. Remove each COP
by loosening the single bolt with a 7mm (6point) socket. Do not use 12 point socket that can round off the bolt. Easily disconnect the wiring harness at the electrical plug for each COP. Remove the 8 spark plug boots and springslocated under the COP’s and over the spark plugs. Set aside the COP’s for later reinstallation.

All of the spark plugs can be removed using a 3/8”drive 9/16” spark plug socket and various 3/8” drive extensions attached to a ½” drive wrench. The rear spark plugs have the least amount of working room. With the engine at room temperature I loosened each sparkplug 1/8 to ¼ turn, no more,

I sprayed carburetor cleaner (I used Gumout purchased at Walmart) into each spark plug well spraying into the end of a 10” fuel line acting as a funnel. I filled each well approximately ½ full, and then allowed the engine to soak over night.

The following day some cleaner still remained in the spark plug well. I proceeded to remove each sparkplug with the engine at room temperature. I tightened each plug and loosened 1/8 to ¼ turn and then retightened the spark plug. Each turn loosened an additional 1/8 to ¼ turn before retightening. I could feel the sparkplug get tighter when I was backing them out. To me this was an indication to tighten back down before continuing to loosen. After tightening the carbon deposits would allow the spark plug to be moved an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I moved to the next spark plug allowing the previous plug an additional soak time while loosening the next plug. Some spark plugs squeaked as I rotated them. This is where patience will prevail. When loosened, remove the spark plugs from the well using a magnetic pen or similar. All 8 spark plugs were removed in one piece and had minimal carbon build up on each spark plug.

I chose to install the one piece Champion spark plug #7989 purchased online for $12 a piece. Before installing the new spark plugs I coated the lower shank with nickel anti-seize compound and placed a small dab of anti-seize on the threads being careful not to coat the electrode. I installed the Champion spark plugs using a fuel line that fit over the tip. The hose allowed the plug to be lowered into the well and partially threaded before removing the hose. After threading all eight spark plugs I then torqued the spark plugs to 27 ft lbs using a 5/8” spark plug wrench for the Champion spark plugs.

With the spark plugs in place, I installed a new spark plug boot purchased from the local NAPA store. The Champion spark plugs are shaped a little different than original spark plugs

I placed a small dab of anti seize on the COP bolts and installed the 8 COP’s in the correct order, carefully securing the COP’s using a 7mm (6 point) socket. Do not over tighten the small bolt. Easily reconnect the COP’s wiring to the harness.

I reinstalled the computer bracket, computer and wiring bundles to the firewall. I installed the battery terminals.

I proudly placed a label on the air filter cover stating that the vehicle was equipped with one piece Champion #7989 spark plugs.

When starting the vehicle for the first time the engine ran rough for a brief time and then smoothed out. The engine continues to run fantastic.