After breaking the axle retainer ring loose on my '69 from hauling a too big load of dirt, I decided I needed to get a beefier truck. So I bought this from grandpa for $1500. It's an '89 F350 with a 460 and only as 106k miles. Now I can keep my other truck as a classic and haul with this one.
It's got an auto, am I correct in assuming it's the e4od?
Any idea what axles?
Gear ratio?
Also, I can reach in and move the rear top leaf on both sides back and forth maybe 1/2", is this normal?
The brake pedal needs to be pushed down pretty far before engaging the brakes, but they do grab well. The brake fluid is full so I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak?
I'll take more pics when I get a chance, and I'm sure I'll be asking a ton more questions.

 

That truck will have the dana 60 kingpin front axle and either a sterling 10.25 or a dana 80 for the rear. Someone should pipe up for sure on that one.

 

nice work truck for sure! i would repaint it but thats me lol.

 

King Pin Dana 60 straight front axle, and most likely Sterling 10.25" rear axle with either 3.55 or 4.10 gears.


What's your gear selector say?

P R N (D) 2 1 - E4OD (will have an OD cancel switch on the dash right side of steering column)

P R N D 2 1 - C6 3 speed.


Leaf springs shouldn't move, especially not just by hand.


And probably just has air in the brake lines?





Mighty fine looking rig though. Huge fan of that color combo



Front bumper looks either new, or extremely well kepted! Wanna trade?

 

Thanks guys. I'll crawl around under it and see if I can't start to i.d. some stuff.
It does have the off switch for OD, so it must be the e4od.
I'll go through the brakes too and see what I find.
That bumper is definitely not new, but it does look perty in that shot!
Oh yeah, ill tighten down those springs as well...any specific torque on those?

 

That BEAST.

If I were you I be add trans temp gauge and put HUGE transmission cooler on it to keep from overheat.

leaf springs aren't supposed to be loose. They need to be TIGHT. I don't remember what Ft/tq but tight than you do with bar beaker to tight lugs on rim.

 

Thanks Milwaukee, trans cooler and gauge is a good idea, I'll put that on the list. I'll get a tach too...I can't believe it doesn't have one. Now that I'm thinking guages, oil pressure too.
Anybody know if they make a gauge cluster that mounts to the front window pillar for this year?

 

I agree b37, there are more ppl on here that have probably forgot more than I'll ever know.

 

I'm going to change all the fluids too. How does everyone feel about synthetics?
I don't know what my grandpa ran or how often he changed them.
But I figure I'll do them all.
Engine, tranny, diffs, radiator, brakes, steering...any I'm forgetting?

 

ehhhh synthetics are so so to me, yea it seems to help my truck run smoth but so do non synthetics...but synthetics I do prefer to use in my truck as generally they are made to be used on older vehicles...

 

synthetics dont break down like conventional oils do, and they dont leave gunk and residue.

 

I crawled under the truck and the rearend still had the tab on it:
V129C
10 10 2 9C02

From another post on here, I gather:
Sterling 10.25 rear with 4.10 gears
Full floating axle
Build date March 2, 1989

Door codes:
Axle 35, 6250lb capacity

 

Nice looking truck. Sounds like most of your questions have been answered already, but for another opinion on synthetic, I'd say it's worth it if you're willing to pay for the added cost. This past oil change I switched from conventional to synthetic engine oil and it is making a (small) difference in fuel economy. My average on conventional was 11.4 mpg while my average after the switch to 12.3 mpg. I attribute about .5 mpg of that difference to warmer weather (since that's usually what the summer to winter difference in mpg was), so I'm looking at a modest .4 mpg increase on synthetic engine oil alone. If you read up on Project MPG from Four Wheeler magazine (Let me google that for you), they showed improvements after switching to synthetic engine, transmission, and rear diff fluids. Also, as mentioned before, it can't hurt since synthetic oils hold up a lot better than conventional oils do.

 

Not in a triple pod but they have dual pods that are kinda universal. You could probably modify the 92-96 triple pod to work. Good idea in getting gauges though

Id recommend trans temp, oil pressure and water temp.

I would recommend synthetics. My truck had had Mobil 1 its whole life.

 

I think I'll go full synthetic and pick up everything from amsoil, it's expensive, but I think worth it in the long run. I was able to find the pillar pods too, and maybe I'll try modifying one of the other years for the triple gauge one.
I got to the DMV today to change the title into my name which they gladly accepted $15 for, but then told me the transaction wasn't complete because I need a smog certification. Of course I immediately pointed out the place on the form that states it is exempt from a smog certification because it's being transferred from a grandparent to a grandchild...but even this didn't appease them. It didn't help at all that the lady I was talking too could barely speak English, so I have no idea what the reason she gave me was. It is obvious on the form that they gave me that the title was transferred into my name with my new address and I know my grandpa sent in the release of liability so nothing can come back to him. The registration was just paid in July so I figure I'll just wait until it's due next year before I worry about it...
The way I see it, the title is in my name, the trucks registration is paid through 2012 and I've got insurance.