Heads up to all EGR delete kit installers:
Installed a River City Diesel (RCD) EGR delete kit this weekend, in my 2006 6.0 F350. The entire job took appx 12 hours. A few of those hours were my fault. Dropped bolts, nuts (dropped on top of tranny) etc. Added in breaks too. Recommend an assistant too.
Before I walk thru the whole delete/install procedures, a few points to be made.
1. Throw the instructions away from RCD and download and print the instructions from Sinister. Theirs are in color and a lot more pictures.
2. Get a thick piece of foam to lay on top of the engine. I did but chest is still tender today.
3. “V” band clamps are 7/16” not metric.
4. You do not need to remove the oil/fuel filter assembly nor the intercooler return elbow and duct.
5. Most of the hard parts are at arms length and your arms will let you know it the next day and the day after.
6. You’ll need a complete deep well Metric 3/8” and ¼” drive set. Rachet wrenches help in a lot of spots. Mech’s mirror too.
7. FYI I’m an aircraft mechanic, not a diesel mechanic, so if you follow the instructions and with these tips you’ll be fine. Just expect an all day job. 8. All my directions are from the front of truck looking aft into engine bay.fficeffice" />>>
9. Make sure to install new metal gasket at top of new down pipe.
10. Follow the instructions from Sinister and use the following tips as needed.
A. Remove air filter and all associated ducting aft of the filter.
B. Remove intercooler down pipe and upper connecting hose.
C. Disconnect alternator wires and remove 3 mounting bolts and let tip forward. Hold on to it because it tilts forward fast.
D. Disconnect ‘V” band clamp from LH rear of turbo.
E. Crawl under truck and remove 2 nuts from tailpipe to catalytic converter. They’re directly under front passenger seat.
F. While under truck loosen exhaust manifold bolts on drivers side of engine. You’ll need a 10mm wrench and 13mm short socket and a short extension. Same on passenger side but take those completely out and you’ll need a group of long extensions and a swivel ext or swivel socket. These nuts are just inboard of rear side of tires, up high.
G. Reaching over/around/whatever it takes disconnect “V” band clamp behind RH side of turbo.
H. Remove 3 mounting bolts from turbo. LH and RH front bolts are front to back. Aft mount bolt is vertical on my truck. Picture on Sinister’s directions show it facing fwd. You can see it under turbo if you look hard enough. Wasted a lot of time on this part, looking for fwd facing bolt.
I. Reach under turbo with small pry bar and pop turbo up, out of cradle.
J. Roll/lift turbo towards the Alternator mount. It’s heavy. Say cuss words during this part.
K. Remove turbo cradle 2 bolts fwd RH side, 2 bolts LH middle side of mount.
L. I did not take out the “Y” pipe on RH side of turbo.
M. Fought the “T” pipe out and threw it on the ground.
N. You must loosen the intake manifold bolts on the drivers side. There are 2 nuts on the aft studs holding a heat shield. After removing these 2 nuts lift up the shield and loosen the other 2 nuts under the heat shield. Leave all bolts and studs in place, just loosen them.
O. LH side (remember this is always looking aft into engine bay) you must remove all bolts/studs and stow them so you can put them back in the very same holes.
P. Just to the left of the EGR valve are a stud and a bolt head. These hold the EGR cooler in the front. Take these out and stow them, they’re used to install your bypass kit. Plus 1 holding in the aft part of the cooler.
Q. Remove the 2 each 15mm head bolts from the fan shroud and the smaller bolt just above the LH shroud bolt.
R. Gently prying up on the intake manifold and pushing down on the EGR cooler should release it from it’s position. Might need a tap with a small mallet.
S. I cut the hose with a knife. You’re changing it anyway. There is water in the cooler, try to pour it on yourself while removing so you can cuss some more.
T. Install new EGR bypass and hose.
U. Reassembly will make you cuss a lot.
V. Reinstall intake manifold bolts/studs making sure that the LH (Remember facing aft into engine bay) intake gasket has not shifted out of place.
W. Do not tighten any bolts on the manifolds as you reassemble them and during installation of the new down pipe. Install all bolts with nuts, you’ll tighten those soon enough.
X. Install turbo cradle then turbo.
Y. “Y” pipe (behind to the right of turbo “V” band clamp should be reinstalled now with nut facing top/fwd.
Z. Now tighten all exhaust manifolds, new down pipe and turbo clamps. Top of new down pipe can be tightened with turbo installed. Just need to do some acrobatics and cuss a lot.
AA. Attach exhaust pipe to turbo making sure tab is on over the top of the flange of the turbo and have someone move the exhaust pipe under the truck until you can install the “V” band clamp. After it’s tight reconnect the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter.
BB. Reinstall the alternator by tipping it into place using a couple of heavy duty long straight shank punches or Phillips screw drivers. It’s time to say a few more cuss words at this point.
CC. Install intercooler hot side down pipe and air filter and ducting.
DD. Removed EGR valve at this time, installed blank out plate and using the aft mount bolt from the EGR cooler, mounted the EGR valve on the low temp intercooler elbow where the empty screw hole is, aft side.
EE. Don’t forget shroud bolts and clipped in piece that goes on top of shroud.
FF. I flushed my radiator at this point and double checked for tools/ wiring connectors hooked up so on , etc.
GG. Make sure you check fan area for tools. Found my pry bar just waiting to go slinging around in the fan/radiator area. >> >> Good luck. Hope this helps. The terror is still fresh in my mind and the sore muscles should be gone tomorrow. Learn a few more cuss words and have your assistant add theirs to the mix. Send me a PM if you need help but I’ll respond faster to a phone call. 928-503-2194 >>
Yea it sucked......the first time I got the turbo off and on....my god it took 45 min. of pizzin' and moanin' bunch of 4 letter cuss words and let the freakin' stars align to get that turbo back in the hole....
good writeup though.....
btw. just so everyone is clear with the terms the down pipe is the 3.5" pipe going twards the muffler the passenger side Up pipe is what you replaced......
__________________ My Truck: '03 F-250 6.0L,Powermax turbo, 155cc Injectors,SCT tuned, 4" straight pipe, coolant filter, ELC, EGR delete, High Idle, Traction bars, etc. Just broke in at 130k. Wife's Car: '12 Jetta TDI 2.0L Diesel
Another note: To get the 3.5" downpipe to align to the turbo flange it is easy for one person to do it with the aid of a ratcheting tie-down strap. Loop the long end of the strap twice around the downpipe's elbow. Feed the nylon strap through the round hook eyelet to secure it to the downpipe and extend the long strap up to the ratchet that is hanging from the hood latch. Insert strap into ratchet and take up slack. LIGHTLY tighten the ratchet until you pull positive tension on the downpipe. REMEMBER, this is the hood you're pulling down on. The object here is to pull tension on the downpipe, not pull the hood into the turbo cradle or cause damage to anything. A little discretion and moderation can go a long way. This saves lots of time and reduces the over-use of those furry little four letter words. Hope this helps.
Do not forget to wipe up all of the blood! I always know if I did the job right If i made a blood sacrafice
Steve ***-2003.25 F-250 CC 6.0 FX4 King Ranch
4" Turbo back-
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So, I know I am late to this thread, but hope someone can help educate me. Excellent write up. I have the turbo out and am replacing the up-pipe next. The problem is that there is a heat shield mounted to the y-pipe right where the up-pipe flange is located. I can get to the front bolts, but not the back? Does one really have to be a gymnast to get this done? Is there a better way? Thanks, gm.
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