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  #61  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:44 PM
BrianG2 BrianG2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB78f150 View Post
Was wondering how much POR 15 you used for the whole chassis and drive train?
Sorry for being a bit wordy, but I hope this answers your question.

I sprayed the frame last March and the rest of the parts were sprayed in late July. The start of summer in the PNW was very wet.

To spray the front and rear axles (and the other suspension parts) I used one Qt of POR15 black, 1 Qt POR15 silver and 1 Qt POR15 Hardnose black.
To spray this stuff I used their thinner for the POR15, thinned 5%.
For thinning the POR15 Hardnose I used Xylene, thinned 15%.

Even if you do not spray this stuff, protect your lungs and use a good respirator or external breathable air system otherwise you will super glue the alveoli in your lungs!

Used up the full Qt of POR15 Hardnose spraying three coats.

Still have about a third of a Qt of the POR15 black and about half a Qt of the POR15 silver. I used two colors to get visibility of good coverage. For all that I sprayed, the first coat was silver, then black, then silver. The coats were medium to almost full. Everything that did not get Hardnose, got two medium coats of Chassis Black.

For the frame and all the other chassis parts I used 1 Gal of POR15 Silver 3 Qt of POR15 Black and 2 Qt of POR Chassis black. I think I could have got by with just 3 Qt of the POR15 silver. Think I had just over 1 Qt of the silver left over.

The rel humidity where I live is 50-60%, the higher the humidity the faster it sets up. The POR15 and the POR15 Chassis Black took about 3 hours between coats. That was a lot of work around the clock doing successive re-coats. I closely followed all the POR instructions.
If you do not top coat POR15 with something UV resistant it will closely resemble hell after a while being left in the sun.

The POR15 Hardnose went on very quickly. I was done with all three coats in about 2 hours. Make sure it flashes well between coats. and then don't touch it for 4 or more days. It starts our quite soft. Very impressed with Hardnose, it produced a very nice finish.

There were a couple of places on the frame where I cut a piece of sponge threaded a wire through it, and saturated it with POR15 then pulled it through areas where I could not spray (hidden areas on cross members that connect to the frame). Some one told me that if you brush this you would use less than what I used and that it still looked good. Since no one could tell me how much POR they used, I measured the frame and calculated the number of square feet. The POR15 directions say a Qt. covers 96 Sq. Ft. I added a bit extra.

I can say it looks really nice. Time will tell if it was all worth it.
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  #62  
Old 09-01-2011, 12:27 AM
BrianG2 BrianG2 is offline
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Originally Posted by mikey94gt View Post
That trans sounds like its pretty stout, probably works really well with that 428. That was good thinking doing the kickdown the way you did, pretty creative. it makes sense for the computer to control it.

I saw that you had a intake plenum there, but couldn't tell what it was, really, I think its cool you "re-purposed" it from a 460. I haven't begun to look into doing EFI on the 460, its going to be a 71 engine with early D0VE heads on it, so the later intake wont match, Im thinking. I guess I could port it, right? lol. I will probably end up using all "FOXbody" EFI stuff, since I have a whole garage full of it, and a Moates Quarterhorse and binary editor program to mess with it.


I am eternally curious about suspension setups, and what works well, since thats more or less the "legs" of the truck, and it must work well. Its cool that you put the sway bars on there. I see some F350 73-79 came with them, and was wondering if they actually work. Im curious to see if it works in the rear end when you finally do the work there.
The front anti sway bar has been on there for about 12 years. It made a positive difference. The rear bar was impossible for me to install back then, but with the bed off it was easy.

I am not very familiar with the 460 and whats available for it. In the wrecking yard I saw a lot of 7.5L early 90's motors. The intakes have separate runners for each cylinder, which has each bank connect to a half of the common plenum. The plenum does not bolt directory to a 4150 carb spacing, I made an adapter plate and welded it to the bottom of the plenum. If you could get the 7.5 L EFI with those kinds of runners in the intake to match up with your heads it would probably serve the low rpm range better.
On my FE everything is a compromise, I split my lower plenum in half with a plate to reduce recursion. I also had to do quite a bit of porting work on the Edelbrock EFI intake to get it to match up with the heads.

Here are a couple of picts.
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  #63  
Old 09-01-2011, 10:06 AM
mikey94gt mikey94gt is offline
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Interesting, I see the custom fabbing you did there, seems to work very well. I like the reversion plate you put in to make it a split plenum, and from what it sounds like, it works very well.

What coils are you running, and how did you mount them? that is a pretty slick setup there, I like it. Im going coil on plug and some sort of EFI on my 302 in my Mustang, and havent figured out the ignition fully yet.... still running the 96 mustang GT twin coil packs.

I think you may be right about the 460 intakes, I know I can get a correct dizzy to work with the foxbody efi too. time to go junkyard diving....


I might have to look into putting a front sway bar on my 4x4, I bet it helps as much as it did your truck.
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  #64  
Old 09-01-2011, 10:31 AM
BrianG2 BrianG2 is offline
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Originally Posted by mikey94gt View Post
Interesting, I see the custom fabbing you did there, seems to work very well. I like the reversion plate you put in to make it a split plenum, and from what it sounds like, it works very well.

What coils are you running, and how did you mount them? that is a pretty slick setup there, I like it. Im going coil on plug and some sort of EFI on my 302 in my Mustang, and havent figured out the ignition fully yet.... still running the 96 mustang GT twin coil packs.

I think you may be right about the 460 intakes, I know I can get a correct dizzy to work with the foxbody efi too. time to go junkyard diving....


I might have to look into putting a front sway bar on my 4x4, I bet it helps as much as it did your truck.
The coils are off a 2000 Tahoe. Bracket and all is mounted to the valve cover... just by luck the coils fit evenly spaced in-between the injectors.
They are mounted to the covers with a bolt, half inch spacer, nut through the coil bracket, and a nut on the other side of the bracket. The coils themselves put our a tremendous spark. I think the part number is D585 or something like that.

I think the reversion plate helped a lot to keep in the intake velocity up. The current cam (i have tried several) has fairly high lift. The engine is (attempted optimal torque) set up is for cruse at 60 MPH ~ 2800 RPM.
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  #65  
Old 09-01-2011, 04:15 PM
mikey94gt mikey94gt is offline
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Ah, okay.... gm coils work very well in my experience. Quite the mounting system as well. Are they ls1 style coils, that fire on a 5v trigger?

Intake velocity is always a problem when messing with open plenum style intakes, and it makes sense to me why you cut the plenum in half, especally when you explain what rpm you wanted max brake torque. Sounds like a very well thought out combo indeed.
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  #66  
Old 09-01-2011, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey94gt View Post
Ah, okay.... gm coils work very well in my experience. Quite the mounting system as well. Are they ls1 style coils, that fire on a 5v trigger?

Intake velocity is always a problem when messing with open plenum style intakes, and it makes sense to me why you cut the plenum in half, especally when you explain what rpm you wanted max brake torque. Sounds like a very well thought out combo indeed.
They are LS2 type but trigger just like a LS1. They have a small heatsink built into the bottom of the coil pack. They are very shocking!
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  #67  
Old 09-03-2011, 12:42 AM
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Someone asked about painting the chassis parts. Here are a couple of picts.
I used a long rope that I ran between the main posts on my deck and the main posts on my flatbed trailer. I strung them up pretty tight. Then I draped a tarp over the whole thing and guyed the ends off so that I had some working room.
Then I took 14 gauge wire and cut it into lengths that I hung the parts from the rope. Since I was spraying, I dod not want the spray pressure moving the part around when the air spray hit it, so I used additional wire either to the other rope or at come convenient point on the part that would hold it securely to another part. I needed to adjust my gun to spray a fairly small pattern, and as a result more paint comes out so you need to move quickly to avoid runs or sags.

The tarp helped keep some wind blow stuff out of my painted parts and also provided shielding from the sun so I could see what I was doing instead of squinting into the sun.

Grinnergetter (another guy doing a 73 restoration) had a great idea using an instant shelter as his painting booth. I just may do that next summer when the weather allows me to paint again.

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  #68  
Old 09-03-2011, 07:13 AM
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Looks like this is coming along very well!! I cant wait to see the finished product!! I am down in Tacoma where abouts in WA are you at? I am trying to find a bed for a 79 F-250 if you know anyone or place that would be awesome!!!
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  #69  
Old 09-03-2011, 07:13 AM
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  #70  
Old 09-04-2011, 11:57 PM
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Attacked the cab. All surfaces got blasted except the roof, which I will sand by hand. I discovered more rust through on the driver side floor pan. Not bad, but not good either.

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  #71  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:07 AM
BrianG2 BrianG2 is offline
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Originally Posted by 79bad4d View Post
Looks like this is coming along very well!! I cant wait to see the finished product!! I am down in Tacoma where abouts in WA are you at? I am trying to find a bed for a 79 F-250 if you know anyone or place that would be awesome!!!
I am in Seattle.
Don't know of any beds for your 79 off hand. I do visit a pick-n-pull in Arlington on occasion, they have one in Tacoma too. Last summer they had a 74 F250 that was in great condition, unfortunately for me, the following weekend it was gone. Keep looking, I drive country roads and sometimes find some old 70's F something... measure you bed in advance, and keep you measuring tape handy. Good luck!
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  #72  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:30 AM
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Interesting, that floor survived pretty well! The funny part is where yours is rusty, mine looks great, but along the door my floor is gone, I could stick my foot through it. And my rig lived around Seattle all it's life!

By the way, if your looking for parts, you might take a look at budget truck in Auburn. The only bad thing about them is don't inventory hardly anything, but they've got a huge yard (with an entire row for 80s and older for trucks), and the prices aren't bad.

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  #73  
Old 09-05-2011, 08:34 PM
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Picked up a long bed for my 79 off of Craigs list, it was on Whidby Island. looked for several months for a long two holer.
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  #74  
Old 10-28-2011, 11:58 PM
BrianG2 BrianG2 is offline
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Originally Posted by f250 fanatic View Post
Wow, you should be proud of your work so far. I'm subscribing. I'm anxious to hear about your experiences with Inline Tube. I'm considering a pre-bent set for my truck.
Well. finally got my custom duplication from Inline Tube 100% complete. I sent them my original lines via UPS in a 3' x 6" x 6" and about a month later I received a box with really nice stainless steel lines. All the parts fit perfect with the exception of three ends... read drive side, front driver side, and front porpotioning to front differential valve. I think the ends just were not scanned correctly (or completely) as the last few inches just kind of pointed into outer-space. I took pictures and contacted Inline sales... after a 2 week mini hassle with a couple of sales guys, they finally asked for the three tubes that did not fit to be sent back. About three weeks later I received the replacements. They fit perfectly. They are really nice. If I had spent even a lot of time I doubt I could come close to making a set like this. And it would not be because I had not tried in the past making my own. I made a set for my son's 70 Firebird some years ago. I had 90% instance success, it was that last 10% that was a nightmare pain in the *** with one fitting end, just not quite sealing correctly. All that bleeding! Fortunately even after all that my son and I are still friendly.

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  #75  
Old 10-29-2011, 12:09 AM
BrianG2 BrianG2 is offline
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Originally Posted by grinnergetter View Post
Ha...that's why mine is named "Evil Green"

I'm with you on the color and looking forward to seeing it finished.
When I disassembled the cab I found the finisher under the steering wheel base the original color which had never seen the light of the sun. I decided to go with the original color Limestone Green bc/cc I am using DuPont Chrome Premierpaint. The color code is YM154 if anyone is interested. It is a very close match. Likely only a woman could tell the difference. The transparent yellow in this mix make it very expensive!

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Old 10-29-2011, 12:09 AM
 
 
 
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