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Old 08-14-2011, 06:27 PM
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My brake booster is hitting my crossmember

CRAP!! This is that CPP booster that we discussed a few weeks ago. It's designed to bolt to the original crossmember holes AND to the frame rail on the side. Something told me not to drill and mount that transmission crossmember (which I also bought from CPP a long time ago before I tore the truck down) until I got that booster. That's a C6 transmission already mounted to a 302. The 302 is mounted to a Chassis Engineering MII crossmember according to the specs that were provided. So I laid it in there today and the booster hits that tubular crossmember dead center. Anybody know of another crossmember that would solve this problem? Any ideas? The second pic is one of the other side so you can see how it mounts. The PO apparently didn't own a saw or a grinder. He took a torch to that old crossmember. That's why the cut edge looks so bad. Cleaning that up is also on my bucket list.

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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:58 PM
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How much clearance do you need to make everything fit right?
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:16 PM
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I was just looking at it. I've been working on the rear end and just hadn't tried it till today. It looks like 2 inches straight down or straight forward or back.
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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:24 PM
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Are you using the stock pedals? Do they need to mount on the section of frame stub the booster mounts to? Probably the easiest fix would be to move the booster unit back, leaving the pedal mount where it is, and make a longer push rod from the pedal to the booster as necessary. Kind of a pita, but that's what working on these old trucks is all about. lol.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:06 PM
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I don't think it will give you 2 inches, but I made a custom mount for mine. I wanted it inside the frame like yours is, but apparently I cannot read a tape measure correctly. I ended up fixing it by moving the crossmember below the frame and used grade 8 bolts to hole it in place.
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:30 PM
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The only variable in the equation that to me seems the best option is to move the cross member and lengthen the trans mount.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:25 AM
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I thought about that too. I could move it back and add some sort of cantilevered extension on the mount plate. Ive got a piece of plate steel the same thickness. I just worry about how strong it would be.
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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
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2011 Expedition EL
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:13 AM
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In my biased ignorance I think that with good motor mounts and other then the weight of the C6 (somewhat of a pig) the actual torque distributed to the rear trans mount is negligible.

Kind of funny, all of the problems with cross members fitting tend to be custom (bolt in) boosters or cross member or both. The universal bolt to the inside of the frame and universal rear trans mount where considerably cheaper so Timmy Tight *** went with those anticipating trouble, its a close fit, but no interference. The mount is the red thing-ie behind the black and yellow things!
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:27 AM
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LOL. I'd like to see your tranny crossmember. You got any better pics or a name? By the way, good move on keeping those running boards on there. I've torn my leg off 3 or 4 times.
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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
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1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:45 PM
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Hummmm, …can’t, ….cab is back on.

If and when I have it on jack stands I will see if you still need a pic. The rear cross-member is a heavily modified “other make” universal one that bolts on the inside bottom frame rail with a gusset to the top frame rail for stability (read ****).
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:24 PM
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It just dawned on me what I could possibly do. You all tell me if you think this would work or look stupid. I could take this piece that was left on the right side, flip it around......

Name:  other side crossmember red arrow.JPG
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Name:  left frame booster cob job.JPG
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Size:  36.7 KB

That would allow the booster to have enough room behind the crossmember so that they don't hit each other. Make sense? Or would this look like the ultimate cob job?
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1949 F1, Stock / 1950 F-5
1950 F1, 302, AOD (still in a lot of pieces)
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:37 PM
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So is the extension rod from the booster to the MC, or from the booster to the petal which would not change the petal location?
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:45 PM
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The extension rod would go from the front of that booster assembly to the pedal assembly on the original crossmember. As a result, the pedal would be in the original location. What do you think?
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2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
2011 Expedition EL
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:57 PM
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Hey Doc, here's how I set mine up with the cantalever idea you had. I fabbed the crossmember. I didn't use a booster because it really is not necessary. A booster is going your pedal very sensitive. When driving a "modern car" with a booster you have your heal on the floor and push gently. With the stock pedal on the truck, your foot is off the floor making a light touch difficult.Without the booster, the pedal works more like the original because you need more foot pressure. Mine stops just fine without the booster with disc in front and drums on the rear. You could weld a plate on the crossmember you have which would allow you to relocate the crossmember. The cantalever idea worked for me.
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:00 PM
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Works for me,......................but KY is a long ways from here so I should be safe from the runaway truck with no brakes!!

Almost sounds like as much work as moving the cross-member which is a more uncluttered solution? (sorry).

So this did not come with a new petal and petal mount, right? The universal one does, but then the petal can end up in a new location, depending on interference issues.
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