1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'51 F4 project

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  #1306  
Old 04-25-2014, 12:41 PM
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Take out the cotter pin and the plug in the end of the drag link. Take the drag link off the ball, leave the ball in the arm.
 
  #1307  
Old 04-25-2014, 12:42 PM
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I can see from the parts catalog drawing that this is a tapered fit on the ball. But I can't understand why it won't release when I smack it with a hammer.

Pages from Illustrations Catalog_Searchable.pdf
 
  #1308  
Old 04-25-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Take out the cotter pin and the plug in the end of the drag link. Take the drag link off the ball, leave the ball in the arm.
Thanks for the phone call and all your help Ross. I got your PM as well.

Back to work...
 
  #1309  
Old 04-25-2014, 01:02 PM
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I would say ya need a pickle fork Bud
Two hammers work as well or better as it don't tear
anything up like a fork can.
 
  #1310  
Old 04-25-2014, 01:46 PM
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drag link

If it is a tapered connection like a tie-rod end, whack the steering arm on the outer end 90 degrees from the threads.
This will distort the hose a little and it should pop out.
Tractormanbill
 
  #1311  
Old 04-25-2014, 02:04 PM
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So, after getting more info about what I'm trying to do from Ross, I now have the spindles removed along with the drag link. The old king pins will basically fall through the old bushings, so they were definitely worn.

I checked the components of the drag link and there is no noticeable wear to the ***** on the steering arm or the spindle arm stud. But the whole drag link does need a good cleaning, just like Ross told me it would.

I think when I lubed the truck I must have missed some of the grease zerks in the steering components, as the grease is all old and I don't see any of my new grease in any part of it.

And now, after seeing the drag link disassembled, I think it may not have been adjusted properly, since the rear plug was not flush with the end as was the front plug. Maybe there was slop in there as a result. I'll definitely check the adjustment when I put it back together.

One last pic of all the dirty stuff before it's off to the machine shop.

 
  #1312  
Old 04-25-2014, 02:19 PM
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Having clean, fresh-painted steering parts is worth 5 mph, too.
 
  #1313  
Old 04-25-2014, 04:59 PM
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Well, I'll see about that extra mph. Maybe all the way up to 47?

Dropped off the spindles, pins and bushings at the machine shop. He said they'd be done this afternoon or Monday.

I have a little time now to clean up all the other parts and prepare for assembly.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. A special thanks to Ross.
 
  #1314  
Old 04-28-2014, 10:32 PM
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I got my spindles back from the machine shop today. I was looking at the drag link, which I took apart to clean out all the old grease and check for wear.

So, I'm now thinking about putting it back together, and I looked in the Shop Manual for a pic. This is what's shown. My question is this:

Is this the correct order for the ball seats and springs for both ends of the drag link? They're in the same order left to right except for the plugs, instead of opposite each other as I thought...

Just checking so I don't screw it up...

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  #1315  
Old 04-28-2014, 10:57 PM
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Yes, the diagram is correct! When I took mine apart, they were opposite-hand (mirror images), and my pitman arm ball was worn to an oval.

Make sure all the grease passages in the drag link are open.
 
  #1316  
Old 04-28-2014, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Yes, the diagram is correct! When I took mine apart, they were opposite-hand (mirror images), and my pitman arm ball was worn to an oval.

Make sure all the grease passages in the drag link are open.
Thanks Ross.

I'll reassemble it correctly and make sure the grease gets where it should.
 
  #1317  
Old 04-29-2014, 02:29 PM
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Just a before and after pic of the spindles, and drag link. But I also wanted to mention the shop that pressed and reamed my bushings. They did a great job:

Karl's Auto Machine Shop in Corona, CA. Karl also told me he works on flatheads, so I'll definitely take mine there if it ever needs work.

Karl

Before. That pin on the right is the one I had such a hard time getting out. Notice the black scoring...




After




And, it's obvious the two ends of the drag link are different. But I didn't notice the difference until after I started cleaning it.
 
  #1318  
Old 04-29-2014, 05:35 PM
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Dang you work fast!

That would have taken me weeks to get done.

Looking good
Bobby
 
  #1319  
Old 04-29-2014, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm
Dang you work fast!

That would have taken me weeks to get done.

Looking good
Bobby
Thanks Bobby. I'm on vacation so it's pretty easy to get stuff done on the truck. The shop took the spindles in Friday afternoon, and I picked them up yesterday afternoon. As I said, they did a really nice job.

Started working on it at 7:30 this morning and just got the shop cleaned up a few minutes ago. Besides cleaning all the parts to paint, I had some small ridges to take out of the axle holes so the new pins would fit, but now Betsy's back together. I'm anxious to see if the steering wander is gone. Besides the new king pins, I adjusted the drag link according to the Shop Manual, and it's tighter than the PO had it. There's no wear in it's parts or to the ***** on the spindle arm or steering arm. I greased everything up good, repacked the wheel bearings (which I just did a few weeks ago).

I'm gonna shower and take her out to dinner, so to speak.
 
  #1320  
Old 04-29-2014, 09:20 PM
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OK, dinner was good. Betsy steers better. I don't have to fight the wheel to keep her in a straight line. I suppose it was a combination of the king pins and the drag link adjustment. Whatever, I don't have to fight to keep her in a lane.

I suppose, since I had the tie rod off to replace the king pins and to repaint it, I should recheck the toe-in adjustment. But I'm happy with the steering now.

And now for some frosty beverages!
 


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