Check out section 180 of the illustrations, pg. 367.

 

Yes, I saw those. But they're for models C,D, and Y. Is there no F450 for '56? I guess the F350 (Y) type shock mounts would work?

But I don't understand how they mount from that drawing. Where do the brackets 18035 and 18126/18127 mount?

 

Upper bracket would attach to the frame rail, and the lower bracket to the bottom of the U bolts, between the axle mounting flange and nuts.

 

So, that bolt 20387-S is supposed to be holding the top bracket to the frame. I can see that now. And the bottom bracket is shown as it would be lined up with the u-bolts for the springs.

And do you guys think this setup would work on my truck? If I'm picturing this correctly, I think the drag link would hit the left shock when I turn right.

 

Back to the generator, my memory is the front bearing is a 203 series that you can get pretty much anywhere.

When you put the new brushes, take a piece of sand paper and wrap it with the sand side out around your commutator. Let the brushes spring load against the sand paper then spin the armature (and therefor the commutator). This will sand the brushes to the shape of the commutator. If the shape of the brushes is pretty good to begin with, skip this step.

I have found the hardest part of rebuilding a generator is getting the key out of the shaft so I can pull the front bearing. I generally polish the sides of the key down until it is a light press fit before reassembly. That way if I have to I can take it all apart again without much drama.

If your pulley wobbles you probably have a bent pulley, or possibly a bent armature. If so, replace the bent parts.

 

Thanks for this info. I already found all the rebuild parts at RockAuto.com. The front bearing specs match the original, so I'm good there. It's $5.81.

I saw that the brushes are available everywhere, but RockAuto also had them, so I added them to the order for $5.01. DC had them for $10.00. The Shop Manual advises the same about shaping the brushes when replacing them.

And the rear bushing shown on RockAuto was actually the hardest part of the order. The single piece for $0.27 was no longer available, but a bag of 5 was available for $0.59 each. I had to call them to get the order straightened out, but the guy was very helpful and took care of it quickly. I ordered them yesterday, they shipped today.

So, looks like I'm all set for a new undertaking in 2 weeks when I'm on vacation again. I bought more primer today for painting the generator case while I have it out.

 

was wondering if the doors on the f4 are the same as the f1 and f2

 

Don't forget to polish the commutator segments and scrape the mica from between them so they don't short together. I use a broken hack saw blade
for this.

 

Hi Schoo. The doors for the F4 are the same as the F1 and F2. Actually, they're the same for F1 through F6. There are 5 Star cabs and 5 Star Extra cabs for 51 and 52. The Extra cab doors have armrests and stainless window dividers as well as a drivers side door lock.

 

Thanks. I believe this is covered in the Shop Manual as well. Never having done this before, I'll be copying the pertinent pages from the Shop Manual to to take out to the shop, so I don't get grease on the pages in the book.

 

Joe, I have the top brackets bolted to the frame on Blue, my 1949 F4, and the drag link has plenty of clearance. I doubt if there is a nickle's worth of difference in the frames. The brackets are originally riveted to the frame. I bet there is a forum member near you who sells parts and has what you need. BTW, RockAuto has the Monroe brand shocks on closeout at $25. a pair. Unbeatable price. You must drill holes in the frame, not a big deal if you have a sharp bit.

BTW, I got the idea from Missy Green, my '56, took measurements and took action.

 

Ray, have you driven Blue yet? Just wondering how much different the ride is with these shocks compared to normal.

Or are you doing this to Blue because Missy Green rides better?

 

thanks joe enjoy the thread and truck are

 

Joe, I've not driven Blue with the shocks. Blue is sprung stiffer than M. G. and the ride is more harsh. Since I have Blue geared and powered for highway speeds, I figured she should have shocks. Leaf springs have an inherent damping effect so we may not see much difference at low speeds. Perhaps I made a bad suggestion. Perhaps a suspension expert will weigh in

 

Ray, I don't ever want you to not weigh in. And that goes for the rest of you guys as well.

I am still a newcomer to these old trucks and I need all the help, advice and instruction I can get. I may not use it, but I still want to read it to help me make decisions and do things right.

I think I'll pass on the shocks idea. Most of my shock treatment (see, I did it again) is coming from the rear bounce. If I ever decide to find a Dana rear for Betsy I will have to do something about the ride. But as I said earlier, 30 mph is fast enough for this bareback rodeo.

I'll be reporting on my generator refurb in a couple of weeks. FTE is the best!