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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #1351  
Old 05-01-2014, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
How about front shocks? The 1956 shocks and brackets will work.
I guess I can look up these in my Text Catalog? Are the brackets welded to the axle like for rear shocks?

OK I found them. I'll have to do some more research on this. I didn't notice any mount holes in the axle. How do the tops tie into the frame?
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  #1352  
Old 05-01-2014, 09:13 PM
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Check out section 180 of the illustrations, pg. 367.
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  #1353  
Old 05-01-2014, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Check out section 180 of the illustrations, pg. 367.
Yes, I saw those. But they're for models C,D, and Y. Is there no F450 for '56? I guess the F350 (Y) type shock mounts would work?

But I don't understand how they mount from that drawing. Where do the brackets 18035 and 18126/18127 mount?

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Old 05-01-2014, 09:55 PM
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Upper bracket would attach to the frame rail, and the lower bracket to the bottom of the U bolts, between the axle mounting flange and nuts.
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  #1355  
Old 05-01-2014, 10:09 PM
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Upper bracket would attach to the frame rail, and the lower bracket to the bottom of the U bolts, between the axle mounting flange and nuts.
So, that bolt 20387-S is supposed to be holding the top bracket to the frame. I can see that now. And the bottom bracket is shown as it would be lined up with the u-bolts for the springs.

And do you guys think this setup would work on my truck? If I'm picturing this correctly, I think the drag link would hit the left shock when I turn right.
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  #1356  
Old 05-01-2014, 11:44 PM
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Back to the generator, my memory is the front bearing is a 203 series that you can get pretty much anywhere.

When you put the new brushes, take a piece of sand paper and wrap it with the sand side out around your commutator. Let the brushes spring load against the sand paper then spin the armature (and therefor the commutator). This will sand the brushes to the shape of the commutator. If the shape of the brushes is pretty good to begin with, skip this step.

I have found the hardest part of rebuilding a generator is getting the key out of the shaft so I can pull the front bearing. I generally polish the sides of the key down until it is a light press fit before reassembly. That way if I have to I can take it all apart again without much drama.

If your pulley wobbles you probably have a bent pulley, or possibly a bent armature. If so, replace the bent parts.
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  #1357  
Old 05-02-2014, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 38 coupe View Post
Back to the generator, my memory is the front bearing is a 203 series that you can get pretty much anywhere.

When you put the new brushes, take a piece of sand paper and wrap it with the sand side out around your commutator. Let the brushes spring load against the sand paper then spin the armature (and therefor the commutator). This will sand the brushes to the shape of the commutator. If the shape of the brushes is pretty good to begin with, skip this step.

I have found the hardest part of rebuilding a generator is getting the key out of the shaft so I can pull the front bearing. I generally polish the sides of the key down until it is a light press fit before reassembly. That way if I have to I can take it all apart again without much drama.

If your pulley wobbles you probably have a bent pulley, or possibly a bent armature. If so, replace the bent parts.
Thanks for this info. I already found all the rebuild parts at RockAuto.com. The front bearing specs match the original, so I'm good there. It's $5.81.

I saw that the brushes are available everywhere, but RockAuto also had them, so I added them to the order for $5.01. DC had them for $10.00. The Shop Manual advises the same about shaping the brushes when replacing them.

And the rear bushing shown on RockAuto was actually the hardest part of the order. The single piece for $0.27 was no longer available, but a bag of 5 was available for $0.59 each. I had to call them to get the order straightened out, but the guy was very helpful and took care of it quickly. I ordered them yesterday, they shipped today.

So, looks like I'm all set for a new undertaking in 2 weeks when I'm on vacation again. I bought more primer today for painting the generator case while I have it out.
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  #1358  
Old 05-02-2014, 04:51 PM
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was wondering if the doors on the f4 are the same as the f1 and f2
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  #1359  
Old 05-02-2014, 04:52 PM
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Don't forget to polish the commutator segments and scrape the mica from between them so they don't short together. I use a broken hack saw blade
for this.
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  #1360  
Old 05-02-2014, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by schoo View Post
was wondering if the doors on the f4 are the same as the f1 and f2
Hi Schoo. The doors for the F4 are the same as the F1 and F2. Actually, they're the same for F1 through F6. There are 5 Star cabs and 5 Star Extra cabs for 51 and 52. The Extra cab doors have armrests and stainless window dividers as well as a drivers side door lock.
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  #1361  
Old 05-02-2014, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by arctic y block View Post
Don't forget to polish the commutator segments and scrape the mica from between them so they don't short together. I use a broken hack saw blade
for this.
Thanks. I believe this is covered in the Shop Manual as well. Never having done this before, I'll be copying the pertinent pages from the Shop Manual to to take out to the shop, so I don't get grease on the pages in the book.
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe View Post
So, that bolt 20387-S is supposed to be holding the top bracket to the frame. I can see that now. And the bottom bracket is shown as it would be lined up with the u-bolts for the springs.

And do you guys think this setup would work on my truck? If I'm picturing this correctly, I think the drag link would hit the left shock when I turn right.
Joe, I have the top brackets bolted to the frame on Blue, my 1949 F4, and the drag link has plenty of clearance. I doubt if there is a nickle's worth of difference in the frames. The brackets are originally riveted to the frame. I bet there is a forum member near you who sells parts and has what you need. BTW, RockAuto has the Monroe brand shocks on closeout at $25. a pair. Unbeatable price. You must drill holes in the frame, not a big deal if you have a sharp bit.

BTW, I got the idea from Missy Green, my '56, took measurements and took action.
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  #1363  
Old 05-02-2014, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
Joe, I have the top brackets bolted to the frame on Blue, my 1949 F4, and the drag link has plenty of clearance. I doubt if there is a nickle's worth of difference in the frames. The brackets are originally riveted to the frame. I bet there is a forum member near you who sells parts and has what you need. BTW, RockAuto has the Monroe brand shocks on closeout at $25. a pair. Unbeatable price. You must drill holes in the frame, not a big deal if you have a sharp bit.

Ray, have you driven Blue yet? Just wondering how much different the ride is with these shocks compared to normal.

Or are you doing this to Blue because Missy Green rides better?
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  #1364  
Old 05-02-2014, 05:28 PM
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thanks joe enjoy the thread and truck are
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  #1365  
Old 05-02-2014, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe View Post
Ray, have you driven Blue yet? Just wondering how much different the ride is with these shocks compared to normal.

Or are you doing this to Blue because Missy Green rides better?
Joe, I've not driven Blue with the shocks. Blue is sprung stiffer than M. G. and the ride is more harsh. Since I have Blue geared and powered for highway speeds, I figured she should have shocks. Leaf springs have an inherent damping effect so we may not see much difference at low speeds. Perhaps I made a bad suggestion. Perhaps a suspension expert will weigh in
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