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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #1231  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Marauder2004 View Post
Joe this sounds like it might have been the problem all along. Perhaps a snug adjustment became very snug after a little driving and some thermal expansion. I know you got a workout today! Thanks for the update and the continued inspiration for those of us following your lead!
Thanks for the kind words Harold. I fought with the left rear for over an hour to get the adjustment to the point that the brakes would not drag after applying them. It was a matter of doing the 4 adjustments in the right sequence, which isn't mentioned in the Shop Manual. I felt like Ken Mattingly during the Apollo 13 launch. I'm sure that only makes sense if you saw the movie...
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  #1232  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:21 PM
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Sounds similar to the engine story I had. The engine started to misfire badly. Tried everything, then got fed up and had the engine rebuilt. Tried the old coil in the new engine and it was misfiring too. Put a new coil in and everything worked perfectly.

Moral of the story is that these trucks are simple, just like the solutions to their problems.
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  #1233  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan View Post
Sounds similar to the engine story I had. The engine started to misfire badly. Tried everything, then got fed up and had the engine rebuilt. Tried the old coil in the new engine and it was misfiring too. Put a new coil in and everything worked perfectly.

Moral of the story is that these trucks are simple, just like the solutions to their problems.
Yeah Ilya, if this is really all I needed to do to fix the problem, I'm feeling pretty stupid. But I'd rather feel stupid and have it fixed, than to be still wondering what could be causing it.
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  #1234  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:38 PM
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No need to feel stupid. And the repairs you ended up diagnosing and repairing definitely needed doing. The way I see it you are way ahead of the game here (and I think you fixed it)

I have an old 1081 Honda CB900 Custom. The rear brakes on it would sometimes lock up. They would get a little hot. Then, the hotter they got the more they would apply the brakes (thermal expansion I guess). There were many a time I had to sit on the side of the road waiting for them to cool off. Sometimes I could get them to release by banging on the rear caliper with a rock. I eventually had to completely drain and flush the system (several times) to make it right.

It can be an adventure sometimes
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  #1235  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:46 PM
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No need to feel stupid. And the repairs you ended up diagnosing and repairing definitely needed doing. The way I see it you are way ahead of the game here (and I think you fixed it)

It can be an adventure sometimes
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Thanks for that Bobby. I've been troubleshooting things most of my adult life, and have always found intermittent problems the hardest to solve. So you try something, think it's fixed, then go back for more. It gets really frustrating, especially with a truck that I'm really still learning about.

But if it's fixed.... I'm a happy camper. And I posted all this so maybe it'll help someone else in the future.
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  #1236  
Old 03-23-2014, 09:23 PM
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Oh by the way, I forgot to mention that I had already (several times) taken the advice I received on FTE to jack up the truck and rotate the wheels to see if I could find the source of the lock-up problem. I never felt a problem or heard any brake dragging any time I did that, including today.

Only after I reassembled the left rear did I find that it changed after applying the brakes. So, I'm hopeful that I have it fixed.

But I've thought that several times now and been wrong.
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  #1237  
Old 03-23-2014, 10:14 PM
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Do your backing plates on the rear have grooves worn into them where the edges of the shoes slide? I've had shoes stick "out" (applied) when those pads the shoes ride against aren't flat. I weld them up and grind flat, no more problems.
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  #1238  
Old 03-24-2014, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Do your backing plates on the rear have grooves worn into them where the edges of the shoes slide? I've had shoes stick "out" (applied) when those pads the shoes ride against aren't flat. I weld them up and grind flat, no more problems.
Interesting. Something to keep an eye out for next time I ease Albatross' wheels off.
Joe, bigger wheels just reach the ground sooner.

I had rebuilt a master cylinder and, after driving for a while, the left rear would bind up and smoke. The brake lights would stick on when this happened. Popping a bleeder would get things right again - for a while. It seems that the residual pressure valve was holding too much pressure back when it warmed up (?!?). Anyway, changing the MC (after readjusting the left rear didn't fix the pressure problem) fixed it for good. So far.
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  #1239  
Old 03-24-2014, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe View Post
Thanks Keith. We'll see if it's actually "fixed" this time. But I'm feeling pretty hopeful. It's really frustrating to learn your work didn't fix the problem.
If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is.

I suppose it's probably about time you caught my little act of sabotage. You know, for buying "my" truck and all. Thanks for the beer.
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  #1240  
Old 03-24-2014, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Do your backing plates on the rear have grooves worn into them where the edges of the shoes slide? I've had shoes stick "out" (applied) when those pads the shoes ride against aren't flat. I weld them up and grind flat, no more problems.
I didn't notice any grooves when I had it apart. If this doesn't fix it, I'll check when I have it apart again. But thanks for the info. I didn't know that could happen.
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  #1241  
Old 03-24-2014, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by The Horvaths View Post
Interesting. Something to keep an eye out for next time I ease Albatross' wheels off.
Joe, bigger wheels just reach the ground sooner.

I had rebuilt a master cylinder and, after driving for a while, the left rear would bind up and smoke. The brake lights would stick on when this happened. Popping a bleeder would get things right again - for a while. It seems that the residual pressure valve was holding too much pressure back when it warmed up (?!?). Anyway, changing the MC (after readjusting the left rear didn't fix the pressure problem) fixed it for good. So far.
Yes, Jeremy, I had problems with my rebuilt M/C also (I rebuilt it). I finally bought a new one and it has worked fine.
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  #1242  
Old 03-24-2014, 11:05 AM
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If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is.

I suppose it's probably about time you caught my little act of sabotage. You know, for buying "my" truck and all. Thanks for the beer.
I have suspected all along that you are just waiting for me to get the truck finished, about the time I kick the bucket... so you can claim it as yours. You know, finders keepers...

It won't fit in your driveway anyway.
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  #1243  
Old 03-28-2014, 11:41 PM
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Well, since I didn't get a response to my last entry, I'll move right along...

Betsy's next project will be new king pins. I've never attempted anything along these lines, so it should be interesting. I'm looking for coaching, suggestions, advice, etc...

Betsy has always (since I first drove her) had play in the steering. I never thought much about it because I remember my mother driving down the road moving the steering wheel back and forth on early 50's cars.

Then I checked for up/down slop when I had the wheels off last weekend. Definitely needs king pins and bushings. After that, I'll see if the steering box needs work.

So enlighten me guys. What am I getting into?
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  #1244  
Old 03-29-2014, 12:01 AM
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I remember changing kingpins on my F600 years ago....they were stuck in the axle pretty good. We ended up putting a support/driver under the kingpin and using the weight of the truck to push them out while heating the axle with a torch.

Not all are that bad I'm sure, yours may come out easy. take your time and be safe under there.
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  #1245  
Old 03-29-2014, 12:04 AM
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I remember changing kingpins on my F600 years ago....they were stuck in the axle pretty good. We ended up putting a support/driver under the kingpin and using the weight of the truck to push them out while heating the axle with a torch.

Not all are that bad I'm sure, yours may come out easy. take your time and be safe under there.
Thanks Scott. That's exactly what I want to hear. Because I don't know what to expect.

I ordered the king pin set from Chuck's Trucks and will be replacing them next month while I'm on vacation.
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