Dont laugh too hard at my first ever patch welds!!
#17
#18
The welds look great! There is a sense of pride in taking 2 pieces of metal and joining them with electricity.
The first time I ever did my own welding and bodywork was on a 1955 F100. It was a lot of trial and error, messed up spots and a lot of wasted and misplaced body filler. The key was - it was mine. 95% of the people that saw the truck loved it. It was the 5% that picked everything apart. I never pretended to be a welder or bodyman and had no problem telling the 5% that. I also didn't pretend to spend thousands on bodywork and paint. That is, in my opinion, the difference. If you spent thousands on rust repair, bodywork, welding and paint jobs, then darn it should look professional. If you took an old junker, worked hard, learned along the process and you have a something to show for it, even if it's not perfect, by god you have my respect. I never laugh at someone's honest attempt to make something better. We as a truck community should always be about helping others make these wonderful old trucks be better than they were. I was at a show last weekend and overheard 2 guys talking about how poorly a fellows car looked when exposed to the sunlight because of a bad wax job. I reminded them that the guys car wasn't trying to be something it wasn't. The guy simply brought the car to the show because he wanted others to check it out.
Keep welding, you are doing a great job.
P.S. A lot of "modern" bodyshops nowadays won't even do rust repair because it takes so much time and skill to master. They are about remove and replace with new panels. So taking your time and learning to do it makes you special.
The first time I ever did my own welding and bodywork was on a 1955 F100. It was a lot of trial and error, messed up spots and a lot of wasted and misplaced body filler. The key was - it was mine. 95% of the people that saw the truck loved it. It was the 5% that picked everything apart. I never pretended to be a welder or bodyman and had no problem telling the 5% that. I also didn't pretend to spend thousands on bodywork and paint. That is, in my opinion, the difference. If you spent thousands on rust repair, bodywork, welding and paint jobs, then darn it should look professional. If you took an old junker, worked hard, learned along the process and you have a something to show for it, even if it's not perfect, by god you have my respect. I never laugh at someone's honest attempt to make something better. We as a truck community should always be about helping others make these wonderful old trucks be better than they were. I was at a show last weekend and overheard 2 guys talking about how poorly a fellows car looked when exposed to the sunlight because of a bad wax job. I reminded them that the guys car wasn't trying to be something it wasn't. The guy simply brought the car to the show because he wanted others to check it out.
Keep welding, you are doing a great job.
P.S. A lot of "modern" bodyshops nowadays won't even do rust repair because it takes so much time and skill to master. They are about remove and replace with new panels. So taking your time and learning to do it makes you special.
#19
You know now I feel like a million!!!..I have to say its been my experience that the folks who criticize the most are those whom have done the least...all the guys who have done it are either still doing it or appreciate whats going on and being done...like you guys.....thank you...I just hooked up my new 2 stage air compressor...watch out now!! I bought a boat in Kalamazoo a few years back and I am taking my son camping in Michigan on Thursday..Cheers!!
#20
I like to think" Well...it's no good the way it is so how bad can ya screw it up?" Or something to that effect. I learn alot that way, sometimes I learn to leave well enough alone! but i learn!
Not knowing how to do something never stops me from doing it, if I want to bad enough!
Keep on cutting,welding,grinding!
Not knowing how to do something never stops me from doing it, if I want to bad enough!
Keep on cutting,welding,grinding!
#21
P.S., as mentioned previously, space out your spot welds to keep the panel cool and balanced.
What I do is tack the ends, and keep a wet rag on hand.
3" cut for example, I'd weld each end to keep it in place. Then one in center. Then bisect each section between welds until almost a solid weld. Each and every weld is immediately cooled with the wet rag. Prevents warping, and cleans the weld area. I never have to re-clean my metal or welds as the cold water seems to knock off the carbon and such as I go.
What I do is tack the ends, and keep a wet rag on hand.
3" cut for example, I'd weld each end to keep it in place. Then one in center. Then bisect each section between welds until almost a solid weld. Each and every weld is immediately cooled with the wet rag. Prevents warping, and cleans the weld area. I never have to re-clean my metal or welds as the cold water seems to knock off the carbon and such as I go.
#23
#24
Yes Sir Just in London, Ontario about an hour from Port Huron where I pick up all my packages..I think we are heading to Port Huron and Turning North along the coast this time....and it was great in Kalamazoo. I remember texting my wife and telling her I am in a place called Kalamazoo and its Greeeeat! I think West lake Marine Maybe?
#25
#26
#28
TRY this instead for a couple welds. Instead of slowing the speed, raise the current to the next level. (I don't know where yours is at now, or how adjustable it is)
But I started doing that on mine and the welds came out a lot cleaner, as in, better penetration, and less boogers to knock down. But I only do this when stitch welding, (which is 99.99% of my usage on sheetmetal), and when the metal to metal gap is next to nil.
If my gap widens, I keep the wire speed the same, and reduce the current 1 or 2 levels.
I weld with a 30yr old DanMig. I bought it used and heavily abused from a hotrod fab shop in OC 15 yrs ago. Then my buddy opened his hotrod shop for the first handful of years with it. This thing has some serious MILEAGE on it. Looks the part too!
I figure if I ever used a new, nice MIG, I'd be a pro.
#29
#30
p.s., you've mentioned a couple times that you're planning on reducing the wire speed (because I imagine you want less buildup).
TRY this instead for a couple welds. Instead of slowing the speed, raise the current to the next level. (I don't know where yours is at now, or how adjustable it is)
But I started doing that on mine and the welds came out a lot cleaner, as in, better penetration, and less boogers to knock down. But I only do this when stitch welding, (which is 99.99% of my usage on sheetmetal), and when the metal to metal gap is next to nil.
If my gap widens, I keep the wire speed the same, and reduce the current 1 or 2 levels.
I weld with a 30yr old DanMig. I bought it used and heavily abused from a hotrod fab shop in OC 15 yrs ago. Then my buddy opened his hotrod shop for the first handful of years with it. This thing has some serious MILEAGE on it. Looks the part too!
I figure if I ever used a new, nice MIG, I'd be a pro.
TRY this instead for a couple welds. Instead of slowing the speed, raise the current to the next level. (I don't know where yours is at now, or how adjustable it is)
But I started doing that on mine and the welds came out a lot cleaner, as in, better penetration, and less boogers to knock down. But I only do this when stitch welding, (which is 99.99% of my usage on sheetmetal), and when the metal to metal gap is next to nil.
If my gap widens, I keep the wire speed the same, and reduce the current 1 or 2 levels.
I weld with a 30yr old DanMig. I bought it used and heavily abused from a hotrod fab shop in OC 15 yrs ago. Then my buddy opened his hotrod shop for the first handful of years with it. This thing has some serious MILEAGE on it. Looks the part too!
I figure if I ever used a new, nice MIG, I'd be a pro.