Pretty sure some years with the FX4 package came with rancho branded shocks too. For around a $240 option you can't expect all the much.

 

Oh yes, you're right. I forgot. And rancho shocks. But the limited slip being a the turd that I've heard it is really sucks. Especially since the stealership probably will be able to "duplicate the problem" to fix it under warranty.

 

You will get a "working as designed" from the dealer more than likely. The diffs can usually be rebuilt with more preload on the clutchpack for better performance (less slip from the clutch pack) however that will reduce the life of the friction material. Plus until you have someone pull the old diff, rebuild it and reinstall it your better off just swapping in an aftermarket unit and done.

 

Ok, instead of starting a new thread I'm bumping this one to see what people think. I read an article on this L/S diff that says you can tear it apart and change the combination/ orientation of the axle clutch plates and the housing clutch plates, and maybe even add a few in there, to make this thing work. For the big price of 81 bucks plus axle seals. Has anyone heard of this or done it. Way cheaper than a new carrier. Here is the article I speak of. Ford limited slip rebuild

 

In theory anyway, increasing the friction surface amount should increase the amount of force it takes to allow slippage of one wheel.

If you can do all the work yourself it would be something to experiment with. If you have to pay someone to do the work for you well....probably not. One of the main things I have against a clutch type diff with friction material is it contaminates the oil as the friction material wears. This spent material obviously gets into the oil and recirculated throughout the axle and into the bearings.

 

Ok that makes sense. I'm talking doing it myself. I do like the gear L/S better, however I haven't even gotten my exhaust yet and changing a diff means money and dusting off the pinion depth gauge and dial indicator, unless the TruTrac is EXACTLY the same specs as stock which I find hard to beleive. If I thought a TruTrak was a bolt in install using the factory backlash shims in the same spot and not having to reset the pinion depth and crush collar and all that I'd be all over it and put the exhaust off for a while. But the wife has me on a budget! I have to save for retirement or something like that!

 

On my truck the passenger rear is the one that normally has power and then when LS kicks in, the driver side rear will kick in.

I am pretty certain that is the way it works and is designed.