Change 4.6L rod bearings with engine still in vehicle? 02 Explorer - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L)
Log In 


Change 4.6L rod bearings with engine still in vehicle? 02 Explorer

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #16  
Old 08-23-2011, 07:59 AM
Johnny Langton's Avatar
Johnny Langton Johnny Langton is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 4,171
Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayton4 View Post
I would be switching from an aluminum block to iron,
The only 2V engines that had aluminum blocks were the Explorer/Mountaineer engines from '02-'05ish.
Mustang 2Vs were all iron blocks. The Mach 1 4V and the N/A 4V Cobras were Aluminum.
JL
__________________
2005 F250 Crewcab 3V V10/Torqshift/4.10LS
2001 F150 Supercab 4.6L/4R70W/3.55
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6L/4R70W 12.16@111.78
2010 Lincoln MKT Elite-3.5L EcoBoost/AWD 14.41@96.27
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-23-2011, 08:06 AM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Langton View Post
The only 2V engines that had aluminum blocks were the Explorer/Mountaineer engines from '02-'05ish.
Mustang 2Vs were all iron blocks. The Mach 1 4V and the N/A 4V Cobras were Aluminum.
JL

Mine is the 2002 Explorer, so I do have the aluminum. The prices for an Explorer/Mountainer engine from the scrapyards near me are way too high.

From what I have read, the cast iron block would not be an issue, but the number of knock sensors would be.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-23-2011, 11:59 AM
Johnny Langton's Avatar
Johnny Langton Johnny Langton is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 4,171
Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.Johnny Langton has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayton4 View Post
Mine is the 2002 Explorer, so I do have the aluminum. The prices for an Explorer/Mountainer engine from the scrapyards near me are way too high.

From what I have read, the cast iron block would not be an issue, but the number of knock sensors would be.
Ok, you're working on the Explorer-gotcha. Somehow I must've missed that from the beginning.
IMO-you're far better off going back to the aluminum block. There's roughly an 80 lb difference,and you're going to have issues with timing cover fitament,etc, plus the heavier engine making handling much worse on the Explorer with an iron block. The knock sensor issue is a valid concern as well.
JL
__________________
2005 F250 Crewcab 3V V10/Torqshift/4.10LS
2001 F150 Supercab 4.6L/4R70W/3.55
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6L/4R70W 12.16@111.78
2010 Lincoln MKT Elite-3.5L EcoBoost/AWD 14.41@96.27
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 08-23-2011, 02:59 PM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Today I was able to pull those two rod caps and rod bearings to have a look see. As firebug said, the crank is all chewed up there as well. I will be weighing my options, but I am leaning towards doing an engine swap. Changing the crankshaft out without having the engine on a stand seems like it could be a lot of trouble.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 02-15-2012, 11:44 PM
bigbellyking bigbellyking is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 22
bigbellyking is starting off with a positive reputation.
4.6 Differences

Hi, I hope that you got your truck running. I am having a similar problem as my engine is seized up on my 02 4.6L Explorer.
What engines will fit in my truck as most yards say that only the 02 explorer and 02 Mountaineer will fit.

You said something about one having 2 knock sensors vs. 1 knock sensor. Please explain further.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 02-19-2012, 12:59 PM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Nope, 6 months later and the truck is not running. The Mustang engine I bought had bad heads and has set the project behind quite a bit. Going from Mustang to Explorer, I have had to use my old timing cover, accessories, intake manifold, headers, wiring.

One of the bolt holes on the timing cover close to the water pump is in a different place, which I filled up with RTV. The left side motor mount had to be modified. The Explorer engine has two raised bosses in the valley under the intake manifold, where the Mustang engine only has one recessed hole in the middle. I think I may stack both knock sensors in that one location or leave them out completely.

Check out these links that have helped me:
Rebuilding The Ford 4.6L: Engine Builder
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Item...hc_engine.aspx
For part numbers to order: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...6/#post7074596
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Item...gs_go_bad.aspx
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar797.htm

The yards all use the same computer system to determine which fits, and that system says that the 2002 engines are the only thing that works. I think it is because they switched to a throttle by wire system in 2003 instead of the throttle cable. If you want an easy direct fit drop in solution, get the same engine. If you don't mind switching things over with a little tweaking here and there, then get any 2001-2004 Romeo built 4.6L.
__________________
jayton4
2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6L SOHC - Engine swap in process
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Mac catted H-pipe -Current daily driver
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Stock, 14.683 1/4 mile ET, 206.1 rwhp - Currently in storage
2001 BMW 325i Saloon - Wife's daily driver
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis - Backup car
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 03-07-2012, 10:28 PM
broncos4life7896 broncos4life7896 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 10
broncos4life7896 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayton4 View Post
The low oil pressure switch tripped about a mile from home. Checked oil level and it was good, made it home with the engine stalling once, low oil pressure continued switching on and off, and the engine started to make more noises as I came into my driveway that fluctuated with the rpms regardless of whether there was a load on the engine nor if it was in neutral.

I changed the oil & filter, and put in a new oil pressure switch. The truck started up fine and idled fine. The oil pressure light was off for about 2 minutes while it was running. Then the light began to flicker and then stayed on solid. If I very lightly touched the accelerator, it would go back off. So the amount of pressure being pumped is way down. The regular everyday rattling noises seemed to get louder than usual.

I suspect oil pump, and it will be a couple of days before I will be able to obtain a real oil pressure gauge. By this time, I have already seen enough without the gauge to know that I have a real problem here. So I dropped the pan and this is what I found:

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

There is not a trace of sludge on the pickup tube, as I am pretty meticulous about oil changes. Only shiny metal flakes. Like silver glitter, very finely ground into a sandy dust. It does not seem to be magnetic, which I would guess to be bearing material.

Is it possible to change the rod bearings with the engine still in the vehicle? I do not currently have access to a cherry picker. I already have everything off the front of the engine, and will have the valve covers and timing cover pulled by tomorrow. I have the tools needed to easily drop the drive shaft and transmission as well as removing the flywheel to clear everything off of the back.

Would I be able to detect rod bearing damage by pulling main caps off the bottom and inspecting?

So far I have purchased or ordered the following for the job: Melling Oil Pump, Felpro timing cover gasket, Ford dealer crankshaft pulley bolt, the specialty Ford camshaft tools (OTC 6009 and 6020).

Every single thread on this topic on most forums seem to say to give up and swap engines from a junkyard or a remanufacturer. I do not have those kind of funds, as junk yard engines start around $2100 for the ones that don't say already broken or burnt. The rebuilt engines are in the range of $2800-3200. Racking up a ton of labor hours does not matter to a shadetree and I don't mind taking a big puzzle apart and then putting it back together. I am not in a panic or rush to get this done the quickest and easiest way possible. I have a backup car available and I need this to be done the cheapest possible way.

Are there any particular tips and tricks I should know about? What should I do about timing? Some things I read say put it at TDC and place the cam holders in. Others say line up the marks after turning the crank keyway to 12 o'clock so that the engine is in its "safe zone," where cams can be rotated freely without risk of valves touching pistons.

What else do I need on my shopping list? Timing chain guides? Front and rear oil seal?


Engine History:
-Currently has 185,006 miles, bought it in 2006 with 105,000 miles and up until recently, it has been the most trouble-free engine I have ever owned in my life.
-First problem was around 176,000 miles, 10 months ago. Hesitation on acceleration and idle, misfire codes on cyl 5 & 6. The valve cover gasket leaked oil in and gunked up the plugs. Cleaned it out, put in new plugs, boots, valve cover gaskets. All was well.
-Second problem was just 3 months ago in April when the rearward catalytic converter became clogged. I got a direct-fit replacement bolt-in y pipe and 3 cats from Eastern Catalytic to replace the factory unit. This thing looks like it was welded together by high school students completing there first class project in shop class. There are a couple of exhaust leaks in the new system. It is definitely the get-what-you-paid-for game when it comes to exhaust. If it ever happens again on a future vehicle, I'll hope I'll be able to afford the Magnaflow.
what did you have to do to get the oil pan off in the truck ,im have the same delema with my 02 explorer 4.6L rod knock on driver side rear if you could email me with what it took to get the oil pan off broncos4life7896@yahoo.com thanks bob
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:57 AM
Katmandu's Avatar
Katmandu Katmandu is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Troy,Ohio
Posts: 546
Katmandu is starting off with a positive reputation.
Question

VERY suspicious! The last 2 posters both have 02 Explorers w/4.6 and bad rod bearings.

Also, apparently this engine will NOT interchange with other years/models as the OP found out.

I verified this on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market . Do a Search for 02 Explorers 4.6 Engine.

Normally, these Searchs will reveal what YEARS and MODELS your Search is compatible with.

NOT this application! What's so special about this application ?
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:35 AM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Quote:
Originally Posted by broncos4life7896 View Post
what did you have to do to get the oil pan off in the truck ,im have the same delema with my 02 explorer 4.6L rod knock on driver side rear if you could email me with what it took to get the oil pan off broncos4life7896@yahoo.com thanks bob
I think all I had to do was remove the swap bar and then just drop the pan.
__________________
jayton4
2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6L SOHC - Engine swap in process
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Mac catted H-pipe -Current daily driver
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Stock, 14.683 1/4 mile ET, 206.1 rwhp - Currently in storage
2001 BMW 325i Saloon - Wife's daily driver
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis - Backup car
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 03-08-2012, 09:00 AM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katmandu View Post
VERY suspicious! The last 2 posters both have 02 Explorers w/4.6 and bad rod bearings.

Also, apparently this engine will NOT interchange with other years/models as the OP found out.

I verified this on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market . Do a Search for 02 Explorers 4.6 Engine.

Normally, these Searchs will reveal what YEARS and MODELS your Search is compatible with.

NOT this application! What's so special about this application ?
I think the only difference between the 2002 Explorer and the 2003-2005 Explorer is the throttle by wire system introduced in 2003.
As far as the other 4.6L Romeo engines, there is one bolt on the front timing cover close to the water pump that is moved down about an inch. No problem there, just fill it in with RTV. Then the motor mount on the left side of the engine has one of the bolt locations in a different spot. A small tab can be welded onto the Explorer's mount to accommodate. Then finally the knock sensors. The aluminum block has two raised bosses in the valley. Most of these differences are noted on the enginebuildermag.com website page for this engine, which is a very good resource.
__________________
jayton4
2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6L SOHC - Engine swap in process
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Mac catted H-pipe -Current daily driver
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Stock, 14.683 1/4 mile ET, 206.1 rwhp - Currently in storage
2001 BMW 325i Saloon - Wife's daily driver
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis - Backup car
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 03-08-2012, 11:56 PM
broncos4life7896 broncos4life7896 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 10
broncos4life7896 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayton4 View Post
I think all I had to do was remove the swap bar and then just drop the pan.
in your pic it looks like you have the front axle out with the sway bar !!! "i think "....did you do the work your self ?
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 03-09-2012, 08:13 PM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Quote:
Originally Posted by broncos4life7896 View Post
in your pic it looks like you have the front axle out with the sway bar !!! "i think "....did you do the work your self ?
Yes I did (still doing) the work myself. Sorry mine is 2WD and I did not have to worry about removing a front axle.
__________________
jayton4
2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6L SOHC - Engine swap in process
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Mac catted H-pipe -Current daily driver
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Stock, 14.683 1/4 mile ET, 206.1 rwhp - Currently in storage
2001 BMW 325i Saloon - Wife's daily driver
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis - Backup car
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 03-09-2012, 09:17 PM
broncos4life7896 broncos4life7896 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 10
broncos4life7896 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayton4 View Post
Yes I did (still doing) the work myself. Sorry mine is 2WD and I did not have to worry about removing a front axle.
thanks thats the diffrents 2WD. 4WD
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:26 PM
erikjohn erikjohn is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 6
erikjohn is starting off with a positive reputation.
I just had a similar problem with my 02' Explorer 4.6L at 115k. Dropped the oil pan this weekend and found it was the number 8 rod journal was sloppy and out of round. At this point I am going to get a re manufactured crank for it as they are going for just north of $200. I haven't yanked the engine yet but I am wondering if you know if the crank is the 6 or 8 bolt variety?
Thanks,
EJ
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:53 PM
jayton4 jayton4 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jefferson, GA
Posts: 53
jayton4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
James Ayton
Quote:
Originally Posted by erikjohn View Post
I just had a similar problem with my 02' Explorer 4.6L at 115k. Dropped the oil pan this weekend and found it was the number 8 rod journal was sloppy and out of round. At this point I am going to get a re manufactured crank for it as they are going for just north of $200. I haven't yanked the engine yet but I am wondering if you know if the crank is the 6 or 8 bolt variety?
Thanks,
EJ
I do not remember which crank it was. I swapped in a Romeo 4.6L shortblock from a 2003 Mustang GT. I can check in the next couple days, as I have the old Explorer engine sitting in my other garage.
__________________
jayton4
2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6L SOHC - Engine swap in process
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Mac catted H-pipe -Current daily driver
1996 Ford Mustang GT Conv. - Stock, 14.683 1/4 mile ET, 206.1 rwhp - Currently in storage
2001 BMW 325i Saloon - Wife's daily driver
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis - Backup car
Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 02:53 PM
 
 
 
Reply


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My 7.3 oil pan fix (probably temporary) wildstang 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 5 05-16-2013 03:57 PM
Part # for coolant crossover gasket on 2002 4.6L SOHC intake manifold jayton4 Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L) 2 07-29-2012 04:09 PM
Prepping for 4.6L engine swap in Explorer jayton4 Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L) 2 10-09-2011 12:08 AM
Fuel pressure regulator update kit questions Z06MAN 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 20 08-08-2010 01:12 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L)

Tags
2003, 46, 46l, bad, bearing, bearings, bolts, cap, change, engine, expedition, explorer, f150, ford, hours, labor, rod, torque

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:15 AM.

 

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC2
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup