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The closest I may ever get to owning a T-bucket Roadster...
CHAPTER ONE: "The Day the Garage Stood Still" ~ "In which Mister Peter Abbot finds himself without wheels..."
With the failure of my 2.3L engine for reasons I don't want to get reeducated to repair, I have a direction to pick.
NOW IS THE TIME TO BUILD THE V8 RANGER I HAVE BEEN DREAMING ABOUT...
You got it, it's officially "On". If I have to build something I'm going to make sure it isn't my SECOND choice
A fitting pic I think of my trusty old steed:
One from the side
It does have some lines, and that shot always made me wonder about hoods and grills for it - but that can be much later. MY BIGGEST problem about this little hauler has always been something I can sum up in the next two shots:
There's no room...
~ I always thought four bangers were supposed to be SMALL (silly me)
And the cylinder head is straight out of a Mike Myers movie: "It's so BIG! LOOK at that HEAD!!!! It's got it's own atmosphere..."
Junk, pure. A lead brick
V6's are packed even tighter MANY parts of them are recycleable, I note (while cringing from anticipated showers of abuse)
~ That one is the number two chassis, that was originally going to get the engine you're about to see. (The tranny just past it is an AOD)
Good thing I've been gathering stuff up for a long time, it will make it lot's easier to initially just get it together. believe it or not I bagged a cam and complete set of lifters (Hydraulic flat tappet) last year (or was it??? Never mind) that only had a few track passes on it for $40
Here's the specs:
Intake 270/Exhaust 270
(Someone's scribbled notes here)
But anyway - 0.500/0.500 lift, 110 Degree lobes
Originally Posted by Ford390gashog
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 270 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 int./0.500 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Computer Controlled Compatible: No
Grind Number: FW 270H-10
I think that is the cam you have!!
Originally Posted by Mustangzrule
Assuming the duration on the cam is advertised rather than @ 050...
Your operating range depends on your displacement. I think the RPM range for a 270 adv (224@050) cam shown above would be for the 351 not the 302. 270 is kinda big on a 302 and would put your useful RPMS into the 2000-6000 range. It's what I used on my stroked 408W and it was a BEAST up to 5500.
Don't overcam - wisdom to live by....
About the next thing needed to get the ball rolling will be a set of adapters to get a quick look at what I need to modify just to make it fit - but those can also be ordered while the block is away being machined. Something I'm orchestrating right now.
Since I'm without wheels, what I want to do for most stuff like the mounts and all is just order them online!
I don't have a hard price on Trans Dapt motor mount adapters, but Advance Adapters even has a trick header that is just for this conversion.
One rude noise: If you want the plated header it's $318.oo, and it looks like I'd be expected to weld the collector or use MUFFLER CLAMPS....
I'm thinking plain old block huggers and some creative welding and cutting right here locally.
One thing I never want is a 5.0 Explorer header - I saw all I needed to at a glance.
Advance Adapters P# 713015A is the engine adapter set, consisting of two metal plates with bolt holes: $97.89 as of this morning. I don't know what I think of THAT either.
It also ABSOLUTELY HAS TO HAVE an external oil filter kit put on, because that's one of the tight spots. Right down by the steering box, another hundred bills.
Funny - I don't remember those external filter kits being anywhere NEAR that high. (Advance Adapters kit is 716084 I priced it this morning at $81.28
But it's the price you pay for a narrow frame.
That's a lot of cash - if I had some 1/4" boiler plate I'd be tempted to make my own adapter plates
Fortunately the mounts themselves are plain old 302 mustang parts, which of course I also priced at Advance Adapters on the fly. $63.oo
That's quite a bit so far, and it's just to get it in the truck to begin with
I will never have to say:"I COULDA HAD A V8!"again...
Does the Ranger have A/C? Anything I touch CAN have A/C, this ones AIR will be overkill also
Looks like it's 2WD, yes? This one, yes
I don't understand the "two metal plates" adapter kit. That adapts what to what? (Smaller type please? Thank you...) To get a V8 into an actual Ranger frame - the engine mounts have to be adapted so that they fit in the Ranger frame saddles, or Perches. I went through this same kind of deal with a V6 F100 (my original blue truck)
Hey, someone out there in the area, loan Wolfie some wheels for a month or two, OK? It's handled already....
By the way - if you wonder why the first post gets longer, or why new stuff doesn't appear in later posts - it's because I'm keeping the important stuff in the first post using edits as much as possible
Wanna see PURE RAW DEJA VUE??? This is what I was doing when I first joined FTE: index.html
Too bad some of the images failed - it came out really sharp.
To do the machine work on the block alone I have to determine the size and type piston (longer wearing in this case - it will be not only a cruiser but an "Interstate Crosser")
Main, rod, and cam bearings (Do I WANT better rods? Why?)
Timing set (gear or chain driven)
Full gasket set
Fuel Pressure Regulator and inline guage
I think the battery is best relocated, all I need for that is the wire, since I also have a battery CASE from an RV stashed
I still don't have a carb yet, it has to be a 4-bbl but it can be used. On that note time for some math:
*Just with the stock numbers
351 times 3500 (RPM divided by 2) (1228500) times 0.85 for max VE possible (1044225) divided by twelve cubed = 604.296875 Cubic Feet per Minute wanted by this machine -
Contrary to popular carburation notions, which exactly fail to match the correct throat to the holler (or HOLLEY, as the case may be...)
A 650 would be perfect, it looks like
WARNING! The above formula assumes you intend your max power band comes "ON" at very high RPM. Approx. 6500 to 7K
~It may not be ideal in some places... (play with the RPM number)
~ and I bet you didn't expect me to pull a calculator out of my pink pahooky like that, did you? I've known about VE since the mid seventies
"VE" is Volumetric Efficiency - the maximum rate of flow you can get through a set of ports no matter what you do or add to them. 85% sounds bad for the best mark - but think how low that puts stock systems
WAIT, WHOA, STOP! Right here. YES, by Henry- it's a 351W!!!
And I still haven't finalized on the shop I want to do it. THE CASH IS ON HAND
Anyone connected to a machinist in Memphis TN who knows his trade well and doesn't gouge? Have them PM me
~ I'm "COLORBLIND" by the way. I believe every human being deserves a chance
Oh yeah, we gonna build us a machine here. If for no better reason because if not now when?
Here is another notion that should be on the table before the machine shop: "What is the intended RPM range where I want all hell to happen???"
~Always a very good question to begin with. Once you build the bottom end for a set range, the top end had better match it or it just doesn't ever work well together
The cam and it's timing are not the only considerations there - if you want high rpm power, you better spend some big bucks on rod ends and hardware
But when the dust settles on this case, I just wanna take it and go play...
I just realised looking at my old F100 that an early eighties HVAC box might just possibly fit a whole lot better than the later new stuff - or at least serve as a model.
It doesn't stick out near as much, and....
Well I'll be danged.
Look at this -
and compare it to this:
Not a great pic, but there were forty hornets in the other corner at the time. Things will look clearer once the original machine is removed
I know for a fact that only three small screws or nuts behind the glovebox hold that thing onto the firewall. And the mating surface it seems to me, was FLAT!
I'm kinda curious now as to what shaped holes are in a Ranger firewall right there... But metal is just metal to me
(REM) Have you ever wished you could move or get rid of the cables, levers, and just plain JUNK that controls your hvac so you could use the dash space better?
(Remind me of this, from time to time) I've been thinking about it for a while, looked up under your dash lately? It's a jungle in there, isn't it?
"With proper tuning, volumetric efficiencies above 100% can also be reached by naturally aspirated engines. The limit for naturally aspirated engines is about 137%; these engines are typically of a DOHC layout with four valves per cylinder."
I think I just busted my lower jaw when it hit the floor...
Do you understand what "Naturally Aspirated" means?
For future reference: NO Turbo, NO supercharger. Plain old intake, whether EFI or carbied....
I don't know if RAM AIR counts... I'm thinking you can only take advantage of ram air with an EFI setup and mass airflow sensor
More progress - but I suddenly realised I ditched the stock heads for the windsor months ago. These are the terrible twins, pick your favorite flavor!
The reason the M block looks so much heavier is NOT because of the heads on it.
Eyeball that timing area and compare to the W on the right
That one is the parts truck that I intended to rip to the frame and make the first toy out of - but priorities have changed.
STILL - you can see the two prime areas where valve covers or headers have to squeeze in to MAKE IT! The longer arrow is a valve cover clearance hazard, the shorter notes the steering equipment that must be avoided.
And I think that HVAC box looks a little different from what they showed over at (another website)
I thought those blocks were essentially the same. But I can see a lot of differences. Never saw them side by side like that before.
I thought that myself. Until you see them side by side - it isn't real obvious .
I wish the heads had been off the "M" in the pic - it would lay it out better.
There really IS a lot of iron in those blocks - but that is what make both the 400 and 351M noteworthy for strength and reliability.
The Cleveland series had much thinner castings but the same general layout overall.
(You have to magnaflux the crap out of every part of an old Cleve to make sure of it)
They LOOK the same until you look closer.
BIGGEST tell in the Cleve family is the diameter of the crankshaft journals.
The better engines have a smaller (and therefore lighter and easier to spin) crank - which can in turn be made of materials with higher tensile strength throughout.
The "THROW" of that crank is still the same
The tell is in the crank journal diameter. The smaller it is the better...
(You can't stick a light crank into an engine hogged out beyond it in the saddles)
But the M will not be incorporated into anything soon.
NO! IT AIN'T FOR SALE!!!
Even though it has a massive crank - what the heck...
I think when the 4X4 version comes up I will want that.
* AS a matter of fact I will remember these if I ever build a BLOWER motor...
There's a delay. The soonest I can get it here is likely saturday.
In the meantime I have some feelers out for a certain Courier truck I heard about this evening.
Runs, and apparently drives. Body a bit rough but not hammered. Cross a few fingers - that thing later on could become the ultimate stuffed truck!
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