The closest I may ever get to owning a T-bucket Roadster...
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Debating on 5.0 or 351 '88 ranger swap
thanks for all of the information on this build. What all needs to be done to the fame/axles in order for the ranger to handle the 351 torque??? I'm debating a 5.0 or 351 for my '88 manual ranger swap.
Alright - here we go!
THE EAGLE HAS LANDED!!!
*I'll be editing this post off and on all day as things occur to me to explain a bit better
The right side engine mount is THROUGH the adapter plate slot, and has a nut on it - temporarily. To fish the header through on that side is going to call for some "Jacking&Jerking" before it will slide down in there. It was actually recommended to lay it on the frame rail before dropping the engine, but I could just picture all that pretty chrome getting skinned right off it with only me here to do things.
What I sincerely hope I don't have to do is carve the bell housing in the vicinity of the starter bulge in order to clear BOTH of the headers on that side (The instructions from Advance Adapters mentioned that about some years of 302 that had a bigger flywheel with more teeth)
*The alternative they suggest is to dent the headers inward to clear - and of course my immediate reaction was "Oh HELL no!
Another potential problem- THIS pump is about 6" from the pulley flange to the gasket-line. I was told there is a shorter "SNOUT" water pump, and I dunno if this is one of them. Still, you can plainly see how tight the space from there to the rad-mount is. Almost dead-on 3 inches. There is an aluminum radiator that isn't too steep a buy that fits inside where the A/C condenser goes (which is what the sheet of metal is in place to protect) but I was adamant about having a complete and working Air Conditioner NO MATTER WHAT I HAD TO DO!
*Another unknown - If I get one of the shorty pumps (and I really doubt this IS one), does it change the spacing of all the rest of my pulleys? I kinda doubt it, but dang...
* YES SIR! Only an electric fan is going to work here. Fortunately I have several on hand
* In this photo you can also see the connections for the external oil filter lines, needed because the steering gear box is like RIGHT THERE MAN!
The infamous A/C box. Once the trans is bolted up, I expect the engine to tilt down a fair amount - but that won't change the side to side clearance much at all.
We're looking at about a quarter inch if that - but I just don't give a drat! If I have to stick a LEATHER PAD in there, that's what I'll do. Conversely - if it eventually beats that area into a shape that clears, I'll just re-do the black spray paint and to heck with it...
Another alternative may be stock valve covers. I'd like to see chrome in here though - so maybe I'll have to send a set to a Tiajuana House of Chrome I heard about...
Tight, tight, and just plain tight! The plastic "Goodie-two-shoes" steering shaft cover is going to be another victom of circumstances.
As you look at this last shot - you may note the adapter plate and one of it's bolts. It is to the left of the P/S pump, straight down from the first header tube bend.
I had to bolt THE ADAPTER PLATE to the engine mount (Standard 302 mounts) before dropping the engine this time, it was KEY to sliding this thing into place.
I should also mention that the only easy way to drop it, is to turn the engine clockwise as viewed from above NINETY DEGREES until it is partway in - and then turn it gradually straight in line with the chassis as it gets lower in the truck
THE EAGLE HAS LANDED!!!
*I'll be editing this post off and on all day as things occur to me to explain a bit better
The right side engine mount is THROUGH the adapter plate slot, and has a nut on it - temporarily. To fish the header through on that side is going to call for some "Jacking&Jerking" before it will slide down in there. It was actually recommended to lay it on the frame rail before dropping the engine, but I could just picture all that pretty chrome getting skinned right off it with only me here to do things.
What I sincerely hope I don't have to do is carve the bell housing in the vicinity of the starter bulge in order to clear BOTH of the headers on that side (The instructions from Advance Adapters mentioned that about some years of 302 that had a bigger flywheel with more teeth)
*The alternative they suggest is to dent the headers inward to clear - and of course my immediate reaction was "Oh HELL no!
Another potential problem- THIS pump is about 6" from the pulley flange to the gasket-line. I was told there is a shorter "SNOUT" water pump, and I dunno if this is one of them. Still, you can plainly see how tight the space from there to the rad-mount is. Almost dead-on 3 inches. There is an aluminum radiator that isn't too steep a buy that fits inside where the A/C condenser goes (which is what the sheet of metal is in place to protect) but I was adamant about having a complete and working Air Conditioner NO MATTER WHAT I HAD TO DO!
*Another unknown - If I get one of the shorty pumps (and I really doubt this IS one), does it change the spacing of all the rest of my pulleys? I kinda doubt it, but dang...
* YES SIR! Only an electric fan is going to work here. Fortunately I have several on hand
* In this photo you can also see the connections for the external oil filter lines, needed because the steering gear box is like RIGHT THERE MAN!
The infamous A/C box. Once the trans is bolted up, I expect the engine to tilt down a fair amount - but that won't change the side to side clearance much at all.
We're looking at about a quarter inch if that - but I just don't give a drat! If I have to stick a LEATHER PAD in there, that's what I'll do. Conversely - if it eventually beats that area into a shape that clears, I'll just re-do the black spray paint and to heck with it...
Another alternative may be stock valve covers. I'd like to see chrome in here though - so maybe I'll have to send a set to a Tiajuana House of Chrome I heard about...
Tight, tight, and just plain tight! The plastic "Goodie-two-shoes" steering shaft cover is going to be another victom of circumstances.
As you look at this last shot - you may note the adapter plate and one of it's bolts. It is to the left of the P/S pump, straight down from the first header tube bend.
I had to bolt THE ADAPTER PLATE to the engine mount (Standard 302 mounts) before dropping the engine this time, it was KEY to sliding this thing into place.
I should also mention that the only easy way to drop it, is to turn the engine clockwise as viewed from above NINETY DEGREES until it is partway in - and then turn it gradually straight in line with the chassis as it gets lower in the truck
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