I have a couple questions I'd like to run by you guys reguarding installation of a tilt, column shift column in a '56 F100. (also using Toyota power steering too)
1st is: how much drop are some of you using with your column? I've got a big gut and trying to find a happy medium where it clears me but won't tilt and crash into the dash either. My column is a Flaming River knockoff, 30" tilt with column shift.
2nd question: How did thouse of you that used this type of column deal with the shift linkage. My master cyl. is still under the floor and in looks like the shift arm on the column is gonna interfere. I can remove the arm and clock it, but I have a feeling that clocking it to clear the pedal will cause the linkage to be at an odd and possible binding angle. How'd you guys do yours?
Hope these will help. Trans is a turbo 350, steering is Flaming River 30". I used a Lokar adjustable shift kit and had to space the shift arm up to clear the stock cross member I really didn't need to leave in (ah well). Works fine. The steering comes out in the stock location. If you need I'll be glad to take some measurements for you. Bill
It looks like your column pokes through the floorboard a bit more than mine does which gives a bit more room for the shift lever. Using the Toyota box it positions the end of the column a little less through the floorboard and making the shift lever barely on the outside of the floorboard. I'll have to get a pic to show you if you're not seeing it. Long story short, i should have just put a Mustang II front end kit in it and been done with it, however the money and time is already spent with the toyota swap. Maybe down the road... But I see what you've done and maybe try something like yours and see what it does. Maybe if I could get a good pic of how the pedal clears the lever/linkage looking through the column access hole in the floorboard from inside the cab?
1oldtimer- The box got sent back to Mid-Fifty with the shaft cut off, as they buy them back as cores to rebuild them. The shaft was no good anyways as some moron welded the aftermarket steering wheel to it distroying the end of it. I saved the shaft anyways as it makes good stock for spacers, sleeves and bushings.
Sam..If you are referring to the pictures of my truck I needed to increase the angle to get better leverage on the trans shift arm. It was hitting on the stock cross member. I could have moved the steering up further but the shafts and joints were already installed. The shim is threaded bar stock, beveled at the end to allow full movement of the rod end. Quite solid and works fine. The angle of the shift rod is far enough inward to clear the pedal which is in the stock location. Bill