Modular V10 (6.8l)  

Just bought a v10

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Old 08-01-2011, 09:35 PM
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Just bought a v10

Hi all, first time poster as I just bought a Ford. Got rid of my

half ton Chevy. Wise choice eh?

Bought it for just over $6,000. 2002 350 v10 with now, 31k miles.

It's a dually but we got a pretty nice price so I can't complain, lol.

There are a few problems with it, though.


1.) The 4x4 does not work. The light does not engage, there are no

sounds, clunking, etc. Tried turning the hubs, still nothing. I have heard

it could be the GEM or 4x4 module, i don't know if its the same but

i know either is gonna cost some money which is fine but I want to

know for sure which might include going to the dealer for a diagnostic

test. But I was just tryin to see if anyone hear had the same problem.


2.) Power windows are very sluggish, they won't even unlock using the

button in the cab as there isn't enough power to push them up. I was

wondering if it could be a problem with the GEM thus making the 4x4 also

not work.

3.) I am getting a rattlle,pinging, metal sound at around 1600-2000 RPMS.

Sounds just like metal is vibrating together, I have looked under the truck

and even wedged something between the heat plate or whatever between

the oil pan/transmission. No success. So I would assume it would be

somewhere in the exhaust unless someone else has had this problem,

and knows what i'm talking about.


Thanks in advance for any help! Also, sorry for the wall of text or if I am

posting in the wrong section of the forums. And before the "learn to use

search box" I really have. Everywhere on google, the questions are just

too broad, I understand that. But I'm only 21 and not a mechanic, at least

not yet. Thanks again for any help!
 
  #2  
Old 08-01-2011, 10:47 PM
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Welcome to FTE and the BSEG club. The rattle at 1600 - 2000 RPM maybe the Torque converter cover at the bottom of the bell housing. Two bolts takes it off, then go for a ride. The cover may need to be sprung a little to keep it from rattling. Someone will chime in on the other items listed.
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:52 PM
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The small inspection cover on the front of the transmission is a known culprit for the rattle. I'd pull it off completely and go for drive just to rule it out for good. Next stepp is to check exhaust heat shields. The straps that hold the shields on are known to break.

I'm assuming you have the ESOF 4wd (ESOF= Electronic Shift On Fly) where you turn the ****. First thing I would check on that is to see if the fuse is blown. There is an electric shift motor that shifts the transmission.

The power window motors are probably weak from all those years of use. You could try lubing the channels with a silicone grease that Napa called "Sil-Glide" or something to that effect, just don't expect miracles.
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:02 PM
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V10

Thanks all! I think the things you guys are referring too is what I wedged under it to see if it helped, maybe i do just need to take it off to make sure it is it, then put something more permanent under it to rule it out.

As for the 4x4 yea its esof, I checked the fuse even switched a few of them around, and to no avail still nothing. The transfer case motor is fine as I took it off and hooked the battery up to it and with power it tries to engage so I guess that's still good? Lol.


I bought the truck from my parents so I know how it's been used or how things started acting up. The passenger has always been really slow compared to the drivers, the now the drivers is catching up. Maybe I will try the lube, if it doesn't work maybe i'll get new motors.


Thanks again for everything guys!
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Maalakai
2.) Power windows are very sluggish, they won't even unlock using the button in the cab as there isn't enough power to push them up. I was wondering if it could be a problem with the GEM thus making the 4x4 also not work.
You say unlock, so I assume you mean power locks rather than windows. That is a common problem that you can fix yourself or replace the door lock actuators.

Originally Posted by Maalakai
3.) And before the "learn to use search box" I really have. Everywhere on google, the questions are just too broad
You need to search on this forum, not Google.
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:43 PM
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v10

Yes! Sorry! Power locks I meant lol. The power windows are fine. and thank you! I will look into it for sure.
 
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:26 AM
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That rattle could be the cover on the bellhousing, but ...

Recently, my '01 developed a horrible rattle/buzzing at around the same RPMs as yours, under light load. It only did it until it was warm, once it was warm it was gone (or so I thought). After going over that cover a few times, it didn't get any better (even though mine DID have the cover rattle a long time ago, and made my own thicker cover to get rid of it entirely)

Turns out the catalytic converter heat shield was doing the buzzing. Two huge hose clamps around the shields, and the noise is gone.

Also, it quieted down the exhaust all over the RPM range, and not only when it's cold. It's so quiet now, I can't believe it, to be honest.

Anyway, check that catalytic converter. What I did was use the rubber handle of a 4lb sledge hammer. Bang around on the exhaust pipes with the rubber part of the handle, and any rattles need to be taken care of.
 
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:23 PM
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v10

Thanks Krewat! Gonna get down in the hot dirt today to see if i can get it figured out. I mean once I find it I know it won't be hard to fix with clamps, etc. I thought it might be my exhaust system somewhere with the rust it developed but I am getting exhaust done on it hopefully by this time next week.

Wow this forum is really awesome can't believe how nice and fast people respond. Thanks to everyone.

By the way, to any long time owners of the 2v v10, how is it? Reliable? Did I make a good choice on buying it? And for only 6 grand? Thanks all!

Gonna try to post pictures soon also.
 
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Old 08-02-2011, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Maalakai
Thanks Krewat! Gonna get down in the hot dirt today to see if i can get it figured out. I mean once I find it I know it won't be hard to fix with clamps, etc. I thought it might be my exhaust system somewhere with the rust it developed but I am getting exhaust done on it hopefully by this time next week.

Wow this forum is really awesome can't believe how nice and fast people respond. Thanks to everyone.

By the way, to any long time owners of the 2v v10, how is it? Reliable? Did I make a good choice on buying it? And for only 6 grand? Thanks all!

Gonna try to post pictures soon also.

You got a GREAT deal! Keep the oil clean and be sure to watch the level and you'll have years of trouble free trucking.
 
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Old 08-02-2011, 02:56 PM
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Personally, my V10 has been flawless, except for the exhaust studs which I expected because I'm in the salt belt. I have only 41K miles on it so far, but most of that was idling and low-speed pulling in the woods, and a lot of abuse in stop-and-go traffic. So overall, I'd say it's way up into the 150K miles worth of fuel and air have gone through it.

BSEG!
 
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:17 PM
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if your 4x4 does not work after turning the hubs by hand then you may have bigger problems. I know my 2000 excursion would not work using the esof but would work when I turn them by hand at the wheel. My 04 f350 had bad hubs right from the factory, they would engage then just a few hundred yards later would disengage. those were replaced under warranty. How often was the 4x4 used when your parents owned it? I try to exercise the 4x4, turn the hubs, use the power folding mirrors, stuff like that often as stuff that does not get used seems to break more then the stuff that does.
 
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:01 PM
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MAALAKAI,

This is a very reliable engine. My 99 F350, extended cab, DRW, 6.8L V10 has 345K+ miles and runs like new. never been opened. Do the lub and oil change often and it will go forever
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:16 AM
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V10

Well I thought the light needed to be on for the hubs to actually engage by hand? I didn't think when just turned it actually engaged the 4WD. It's just there to make sure that it's locked in.

I fixed the power door locks today, it was EXACTLY the problem. Just some aluminum foil and bam, brand new locks. Thanks to the original poster, and anyone else that suggested it. It's great.

But anyway, they never really used it too much. When I was younger, I had to pull someone out of the ditch with the truck. I put it in 4 low and it engaged just fine. Pulled him right out and it was on gravel with absolutely no problems with traction or anything. I just went forward and tugged him right out of the ditch going slow. I don't remember it ever working again after that. It's never pulled a trailer in 4x4, never for farm use, or anything more than mild work. It's really a brand new truck.

Being why I bought it instead of a 2002 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it with a gooseneck ball, and the smell of cow crap on the frame. I know where it's been. But that's why it's odd, maybe it went out because it was never used? It's definitely going to get used by me in the winter.

If it went out because pulling the truck out of the ditch in 4 low, with a 1 ton dually, with no yanking, jerking, getting a run for it, then I guess I will need to resell it because it's just not a big enough truck . But I doubt that's the case. Lol.
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:37 AM
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So, you put power to the 4wd shift motor and it engaged, but it wont engage with the switch? Could be the switch. Also, are you sure it's actually not engaging with the hubs locked in? Could just be a burnt out indicator bulb.

And, welcome to the forum.
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:30 PM
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V10

Nope, when you turn the switch to either 4wd hi or low range, you get nothing. No clunking, no noise of it actuating, not a thing.

My father and I were thinking maybe it actually could be a switch too, not sure how hard it is to pull it out of there to check but I may try it.

The dealership said it's most likely a GEM module or the solenoid on the front fender under the hood.

In fact my dad just got done telling me that he actually took it in, and they said it's BOTH the GEM AND the Solenoid that both went out.

I wasn't there to witness it working with their new ones plugged in but he said the 4x4 came on. But even though i'm young I know how dealerships work.

Is it not odd that both the module and vaccum solenoid, or whatever it is, went out at the same time? I do not believe it's anything MAJOR but considering what it's been through I can't see both those things going out at the same time. Maybe I will just have the break down and give the $400 to get it fixed
 


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