So does the whole egr cooler cracked thing...?

Wouldn't it be eating coolant, and it smoking, maybe even coolant out the exhaust?

Atleast thats what happens to my truck when I blew my egr cooler

 

What's the status of the truck right now? still at the shop? I guess they've got a freeze plug in it now, did they treat you ok on that? did they show you any evidence these other things need to be done like take you in the shop and show you steam out the tail pipe, coolant in the intake or oil in the degas bottle? I don't mean to sound suspicious and I realize when the freeze plug failed it ran at least a short time with no/low coolant, but I would want to be convinced these things need to be done.
On the oil cooler, it's generally a good idea to change it if your EGR cooler fails because it is often clogged up on the coolant side and could be the reason the EGR cooler failed. In your case however, the coolant loss and overheating may be the culprit. You posted they told you the oil cooler was leaking. If so, all the rubber hoses and maybe even the water pump should be changed and should certainly be a part of the medium and large fixes along with a detergent flush of the coolant system. If they say it's "leaking" because they think it needs to be changed because of the EGR cooler failure they are not being truthful.

 

Someone else was running my truck when all this happened and before you say ANYTHING, I know that some of you wouldn't let anyone else use your truck, but it was me trying to help out a friend in need which made me become the guy in need. I don't need the "you're an idiot for letting someone else use your truck" because I already feel bad enough!

The friend using it at the time told me that the check engine light came on and he pulled over. Got some coolant and it went right through onto the ground. That's when he had it towed. The shop I have it at now said he probably ran it too hot that it cracked those 2 things. It hasn't been run since all of that except for about 3 minutes total to pull it onto the trailer and back it off several times. So this is a lesson learned the REALLY hard EXPENSIVE way.

I appreciate what you guys are saying and the HPOP had me scratching my head as well.

AGE - I agree with you. I have another post called "Make it Last" and that is my goal with this thing. I'd like it to last for another 10 years minimum and I know there is probably a balance between what needs to be done and what they want to do.

bpounds - no previous symptoms of an EGR cooler going, but the shop said it's hard to tell how hot the guy driving it got it before he pulled over. It probably took about 10 seconds for the coolant to go out of the truck, so it probably didn't take long to overheat that thing. The shop was saying that the FICM is a point of weakness on these trucks which from some reading I've done, that wasn't news to me, but I never had any indication that it was going. He mentioned that it was reading low even at idle and said it was one of those things that could last for another couple years or die tomorrow. He said he felt a small little miss while idling it that most people probably wouldn't feel, but he could tell. Typing it out here I know it sounds like he's trying to take me for a ride, but that's why I'm posting on here. I know where the FICM is, and I don't think it would be hard to replace, so maybe we could leave that off the quote.

william_04_x - What are you considering "upsells" vs. necessity? Just curious.

I appreciate all the posts!

 

Well if it were me, I would have the freeze plug replaced, new coolant put in amd then see hpw the truck responds from there. There are so many people on here willing to share their expertise that you could probably diagnose any major issues if the truck gives you any other problems. If you can not monitor your eot and ect get a monitoring system that will emediately.

 

That status of the truck right now is that the freeze plug is replaced and full of coolant (for about $255)...well, with the leaking EGR and oil cooler, it's as full of coolant as it can be. They're waiting on me to determine which quote I want to go with or which combination of items I want to do. I'm really considering the studs and gaskets because the truck is 6 years old with 143,xxx miles on it. The EGR cooler, oil cooler are shot, so they probably need done as well, but I'm thinking I can do the FICM later because it's not hard to do and the guy even said it's something I could do on my own.

 

I felt my hands were tied when I was in your shoes. Last Dec. I had the oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced under warrenty. At that time I was considering ARP studs but backed out of them. Nine months later and I now have the same issues but now need Head Gaskets too. No more warrenty and I dont want to have to do this again. Thats why I am ditching Fords oil cooler system and going to the Bulletproof system and ARP studs.
My advise is get it done once.
I would see if you can get another quote or two.

 

Ok, the truck is about 80 miles away. I took it there because of their reputation among the people I talk to with Diesel trucks in the area. I could get other quotes, but they're probably going to want to see the truck. I hope a good shop won't want to take someone else's assesment at face value. That means, I need to pay someone for 160 miles to go get the truck and bring it back to my area. I'm looking at a couple hundred more dollars for that. So their reputation combined with what else is involved to get it back here, makes me want to just leave it there. Here is what I'm thinking I should get done from their quote. Please let me know what you think.

1. "EGR Delete Kit"
2. "Updated Engine Oil Cooler"
3. "6.0 Head Stud Kit"
4. "6.0L Head Gasket Set"
5. Oil and Oil filter
6. Coolant flush

I don't see the HPOP as an existing problem.

Don't know what the Injector Pressure Regulator is, but can assume by the name. Not sure it's needed.

$70 for Rev-X seems high. I think I could get it cheaper and do that myself.

Updated HPOR Feed Tube and plugs. I'm on the fence about this one. Are these the "standpipes and dummy plugs" I've heard about? If so, I think they are cheap enough that they should do them while they're in there, but waiting on you guys to chime in.

Clean vains in turbo. I think I could do that myself.

Don't think I need a water seperator. Chime in please.

Largemouth intercooler pipe upgrade kit. Again, seems self explanatory, but why would I need/want/not want it?

Clean, mag, deck and pressure check heads. What do you think?

FICM. Don't see this as a necessity right now and I think I could do it myself.

 

I would re-think the EGR delete. You might be better off using the BP EGR cooler. Maybe give BP a call and discuss it further with them. They do a lot of them in their own shop.

 

It's your money, obviously, and you will have to decide how much you want to spend doing extra things now, to hopefully save downtime later.

If it were me, and thank God it is not, I would just do the EGR and oil cooler work. I think that is all that is really wrong. I agree with the BPD EGR cooler. Definitely oil cooler should be replaced, either OEM or BPD. I would also do the STC fitting update.

I guess others don't agree, but I think your block plug blew out because of instantaneous high pressure in the block. Yes, the degas bottle should blow in the presence of high pressure, but it takes time for the pressure wave to back up through the system. For an instant, the block plug is the weak point. Just a theory. But this would explain why you blew the plug and now are left with a failed EGR cooler.

Everything else quoted is fluff in my opinion. Also, I am concerned by the missing coolant thermostat in that quote. Was the fan clutch tested? That's something you want to know is in good condition. A t-stat and fan clutch are automatic gimme's whenever overheating is an issue, in my opinion.

 

I'm sensing there is a difference between an EGR delete vs an upgraded EGR cooler? Can someone explain and is BulletProof a good system?

 

an Egr deleate get rid of the egr cooler and leaves nothing to fail but you will also need a tunner tto turn off the cel because of the egr deleate

a upgraded egr cooler from BPD has all the guts removed and guts like a round egr cooler
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-->The Last EGR Cooler You Will Ever Need to Purchase for Your 6.0L Ford Diesel!

We all know that the Ford Power Stroke EGR Cooler is a weak-link on the 6.0L diesel engine. Countless owners have replaced their EGR coolers 2, 3 or more times in the first 100,000 miles, and they are not looking forward to doing it for the next 100,000! Are you? Instead of replacing the Ford EGR Cooler, upgrade it with the Damn-Near Bullet-Proof cooler from Neal Technologies!

We now offer a parts-only lifetime warranty on our EGR Coolers!

• Fixed Right - Finally! The right part for the job!
• Street Legal - no waivers or "off-road use only" restrictions!
• No Check-Engine Light concerns with this EGR Cooler
• Works with ALL Chips and Tuners - even the stock ECM!
• Direct replacement of existing part - no modifications required.
• Designed Better, Built Better, & damn-near Bullet-Proof!
• Prevents Major Engine Damage due to Hydro-Locking
• Lifetime Parts-Only Warranty!

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I think the BPD EGR cooler is the way to go, and keep the EGR system operational. I think people are beginning to learn that it is not necessary to delete the system to have a reliable 6.0, and that there are down sides to deleting.

I'm not as sold on the BPD external oil cooler idea. But others who I respect like it.

 

What do you think about all the other stuff they're recommending? What do you think of my "to-do" list. Am I off base? I appreciate all the help.

 

Already answered, I think. On an '05 I would do the STC fitting and dummy plugs, if it hasn't been done already.

 

An "EGR delete" is removing emission controls, it's not street legal and a federal offense if you get caught. Removing emission controls might also make it difficult to sell the vehicle to a dealer and be costly to fix if your state introduces diesel emission tests. There is lots of information on the Bulletproof website.
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0
I'm surprised that a legitimate business would recommend that you break the law! They must have good insurance! What happens in your garage stays in your garage but if they put it on an invoice for a street vehicle are they liable?

On the other work, if you pull the heads you certainly need to get them tested before replacement. It's possible the head gaskets have failed but are they sure or just in CYA mode hitting all the known problem areas of the 6.0 so there are no "come backs"

You could go with the BulletProof EGR, stock cooler, ELC fill, gauges and careful maintenance for an economical repair. How much money you got???!!! While they are doing the cooler work they should check to see if the STC connection on the HPOP has been upgraded and do that if needed. You should certainly ask why they recommend all the other work.