I wouldn't have it circulating all the time. I'd want it only in cold situations.

 

In the real old days we used to put clothes pins on the fuel line for vapor lock. Rubber gas line between the fuel pump and carburetor will also help.

 

Bone dry wood conducts heat really good, doesn't it?

 

Mine still runs the factory piping: There is a 11/2 in. line that runs from the top outlet of the radiator to a connection at the front of the intake manifold, just behind that is a double 3/4 in.Y connection, 1 branch runs to the cab heater core through a plug valve flow control, the other branch runs straight through the carb spacer and ties into the cab heater core return line through a full size tee there is no type of flow control on that line. If that line wasn't flowing at all times when the engine is running the heat right there on the top of the engine would boil the coolant

 

sounds like I need to replumb mine then so it flows all the time, thanks

 

I believe you Tony but out of sheer curiousity I'd love to see a picture of your system!

 

No Problem but you'll have to wait a week. We're loading for Daytona right. I'll have to take the pic and learn how to post it when we get back.

 

have a 1975 F250 supercab with stock 360 and the 2V with iron headers and i discoverd a really cheap, super easy fix to the hot start problem. open the hood when you park it. when you get done with your errand you close the hood and she starts right up no problem.

 

What adds to the heat soak problem is running a thermostat that's 192* -195*temp.. Switch to a 180* temp stat should stop the boil overs. If not then install the carb spacer. Ford even had this heat soak problem into 80's vehicles, so you'll find those black plastic type spacer in the Bronco's also 302,351 and any ford 80's carb vehicles..
orich

 

I have a 65 Merc 390 in a 58 ford F250
The motor is basicly stock except for a holley 4160 carb.
The problem is that it takes a long time to start when hot. Apparently hot soaked makes it hard to start. It starts fine cold or when it has sat for about 2 hours.
Its not a matter of cranking speed because that is quite sufficent.
I have read on here about using the plastic carb spacer to keep the carb from getting too hot. I currently have a 1" aluminum spacer.
I wonder if the heat is really the issue because I can but am thinking about getting the plastic one.
timing is 6 degrees before TDC
Dwell is 30 degrees.

I took off the air cleaner when I knew it was hot had hard to start and i could see raw fuel going down the carb throats from the accelerator pump so I cant see how its fuel starvation or boil over in the carb.
Trying to figure this out

 

Some guys drop to a little cool thermostat like 180* instead the oem 195* one that helps. Some guys have even lower the float some to.

I have used both the aluminum and plastic one also. I have found after using the plastic one the base gasket seems to warp due to it being plastic adapter is hollow with in the walls and under side and the gasket starts to suck air at the spacer bottom gasket. But will help stop heat soak problems. I'm back to using a 2'' aluminum one now with no issues of flooding from heat soak.

Orich

 

A phenolic spacer or a THICK gasket between your Holley and the spacer will help. Part of the problem may be the Holley's bowls sticking out over the hot engine. On various Capri,Mustang,Econolines,and Pickups with a 4V Factory Holley Ford had a tin heat shield under the carb. To direct engine heat away from the carb's bowls. Part number E5TZ9S596A.
Parts International.....972-241-8730.
NOS Parts Warehouse.....888-727-0418.


Also there is a Lincoln dealer in TX that shows one. They only sell to we dealers though. Either your local Ford dealer or I can purchase it from them and re-sell it to you. PM me if you need me.

 

Im just having a difficult time believing that in my personal situation that the gas is boiling. when the problem causing the lack of start is in effect, the engine and carb are indeed hot but not too hot for me to keep my hand on the carb bowls, and as I said, I can blip the throttle and see raw fuel going into the motor. still fast cranking but no startup for several second.
I will however try the plastic spacer but how about a 2" spacer? if a 1" is good, how about 2? I have room under the hood.

 

possibly condenser or coil overheating?

 

Thank you Gembone, that's exactly what I was thinking too. I'm going to look into ignition issues.