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One Step Backwards for Two Steps Forward

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Old 07-30-2011, 10:10 PM
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One Step Backwards for Two Steps Forward

Don't even have a clue on this one.. Transmission goes into Neutral, Reverse and Park just fine, but have to play with it to get it to go into any forward gear. In fact, sometimes I have to back the truck up a few feet before tranny will go into drive.. Any ideas on what would cause this? Trying to instruct a relative via email on what to do to fix a few issues on the truck...Gotta make it move reliably so city can't try to pull non-running vehicle b.s.
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:04 AM
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ASSUMING it's a C6, the forward clutch piston seal is probably bad. It's a very common problem with C6's.
With age the seal gets hard and doesn't seal well. This keeps the forward clutch from building up pressure and the piston applying pressure to the clutch pack.
As the tranny warms up, the seal softens some and then works like normal.
This is a progressive problem and will just get worse.
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:37 AM
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sorry, just reread my post and apparently I failed to say that it was a C-6...my bad... I do know that it is for certain a C-6.. So all I have to do is replace the forward clutch piston seal and it should be good? Is this something that a person with moderate mechanical ability can do or should I have it taken to a shop for it?
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ArmyCook
sorry, just reread my post and apparently I failed to say that it was a C-6...my bad... I do know that it is for certain a C-6.. So all I have to do is replace the forward clutch piston seal and it should be good? Is this something that a person with moderate mechanical ability can do or should I have it taken to a shop for it?
You should probably take it to a shop, the actual seal replacement is relatively simple but to get to it you have to tear the whole tranny down.
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:47 AM
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Okay thanks... looks like tranny work will be moving farther up on the list than it was. Figure that if its got to go to the shop for the seal then it would be a good time to have it rebuilt as well. Was planning on having that done sooner or later anyway
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:37 AM
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No reason not to fully rebuild it while its out and torn down..............Youll just regret it later if you don't.
 
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:03 PM
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Ok, so I've decided that during leave in december I'm going to try to rebuild the c-6 myself. I'm going to buy the appropriate manual (of course) so I can get clearances and torque specs and all. I understand I'll need a Clutch Compressor Tool, which I will get. I've determined that I will be using the TCI truckmaster rebuild kit for about $220... TCI Auto 448905 - TCI Maximizer Rebuild Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com In addition to the manual, I found this on a bronco forum....C6 transmission rebuild - FSB Forums gentleman has a nice array of pictures. So basically, has anyone here tackled rebuilding their C-6 by themselves before? If so, did you go ahead and replace the torque converter? What brand/size did you replace it with? I am one of those folks that can accomplish anything if I have step-by-step instructions to look at...lol Granted, this won't be worked on till december, but I'll take lots of pictures when I do get to work on this thing!!!
 
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:23 PM
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Just figured some additional info real quick, the c-6 is mated to a 400, I have no idea what the crank pilot diameter is, the torque converters I'm looking at, two are a 1.375 inch pilot diameter and one is 1.85. Basically i'm looking at the Hughes Fuel Miser versus either the F35 Tow Master or the F43 Tow Master, both also Hughes. The F35 TowMaster has the 1.850 inch crank pilot diameter
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:05 AM
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Personally, I'd replace the convertor. You have no idea what sort of contamination is in it, and you dont want to run all of that crap through the new tranny.............Also make sure you thouroghly flush the cooler and the lines for the same reason.
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:01 AM
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I just did the TCI last weekend. There are several seals I never could find where they went. Also there is a 2" oring that is a upgrade to the regular one in the kit(white bag). I discovered it after it was about halfway back together.
My trannies were both good...just needed different tailshaft. No compression tool needed.
Also when you get to the last part (Ithink its the one way clutch) there is a bunch of steel rollers that are held in by z shaped springs. You can load them in there respective spots and very, very gently get them back in. So don't freak out when they all fall out during disassembly.


There's your shadetree mechanic tip of the day.
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:19 PM
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Sweet action...thanks guys, like I said, it won't be till december that I'll get to work on it but i do so look forward to getting deep into some mechanical mayhem...
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 78 PEB
Also make sure you thouroghly flush the cooler and the lines for the same reason.
I know the answer to this is going to be glaringly obvious, but whats the best way to do this without a parts cleaner or an air compressor? I don't own either one
 
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