The ballast reduces voltage more at idle, when ignition voltage required is low, and less at higher speeds. Brain, I understand that the ballasts are more for point life than coil life. I have never seen what I could be sure was a factory 48-52 ballast resistor, and the wiring diagram doesn't show one for trucks. When I converted to 12v I used a relatively "universal" one from NAPA, without a bypass for starting, and had no problems.

Joe, the knockout on your lower valance is for the hand-crank. If you look at your radiator support across the bottom/middle, you'll see provisions for it to slide thru.

 

I wondered what that indentation was for on the lower valance. So if my truck with 6v is running fine on a coil with 12V stamped in the side, that coil must have an internal ballast resistor?

 

I'd measure the primary resistance, see what it is. If it had a ballast inside, and you put it on 6v, it would be getting way less juice than it's designed for. In my experience, internal ballast coils are pretty rare. If your coil was a "straight" 12v coil meant to have an external ballast, it would be expecting to see something like 7.5v, and when your gen is up and running, it would see something pretty close to that. So I'd guess it's a non-internal ballast coil. Read Brain's post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10892062

 

I feel like a regular old pro now - someone quoted me
Thanks Ross - you are the first (That feels good).

Seriously though - back on topic, just 6 weeks ago I was cross eyed staring at my mess and it wouldn't start. Feeling a bit peeved cause "I know engines" and for the life of me couldn't get what I missed.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ic-advice.html

As soon as you find it, you'll be looking at the box of $75 worth of parts you don't need going "why didn't I think of that first".

Don't get caught up in charging system and ballast resistors yet - you don't need either to start and run for a minute or two (the battery will just drain while you run).
Make sure your coil is providing enough juice, and that can be checked easily enough.

You got the basic systems, Fuel, Air, and Fire - you know how to check each. Go through all portions of each system.
Report back any findings if that doesn't catch it.

A few notes of safety caution. Pouring gas down the carb can lead to tower of flame backfires, I maybe did it in mine, but not the smartest thing to do - use starting fluid.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, etc, etc - no sense losing your nice truck over a dumb mistake.

 

I'm at a point now where I'm thinking "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". My truck runs fine. The generator charges the battery while it's running at a high enough rpm to see "charging" on the ammeter.

The only "problem" it has starting when it's cold is the ever present "groan" on the first attempt to start. Like the battery is going dead. It always starts with the second push of the button, or on the first after it's warm.

So I think the "new" battery the PO told me he just put in it doesn't have the cranking amps to start on the first try.

UPDATE: I just Googled this battery company...


It appears my problem is right there on the label, which is turned against the inside fender, so I never read it before now. DOH!

Their website says these "Solar" batteries are "designed to offer reliable, maintenance-free back-up power for renewable energy applications where frequent deep cycles are required and minimum maintenance is desirable. East Penn offers flooded, gel valve-regulated, and absorbed valve-regulated technologies to fit all of your solar applications including:
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="387"><tbody><tr><td valign="top">Water Pumping</td> <td valign="top" width="194">Wind Generation</td></tr> <tr> <td valign="top">Cathodic Protection</td> <td valign="top">Missile Tracking</td></tr> <tr> <td valign="top">Lighting Navigational Aids</td> <td valign="top">Communications</td></tr> <tr> <td valign="top">Railway Signal</td> <td valign="top">Refrigeration</td></tr> <tr> <td valign="top">Residential/Small Village</td> <td valign="top">Road Repair Work</td></tr> <tr> <td valign="top">Remote Monitoring</td> <td valign="top">Solar Panel Electricity Collection</td></tr></tbody></table>So, I don't have a car battery. Nuf said... I'm gonna have a beer.

The laughter may now begin...

 

Check if they show a CCA rating; basically it sounds like the type of battery used on RVs, boats, etc where it is constantly drained with no generator to recharge it immediately. Those are actually expensive batteries, lots of lead plates in them for long life, but it could be they aren't designed to put out a big punch for cold starts.

On the other hand, it makes you wonder if this was a battery that wasn't cutting it in a home solar system and he put it in the truck just to be able to get rid of it?!

It's not uncommon for the flathead and Y-block starters to have internal issues; the armature can rub on the fields, creating drag. Some people cut the armature by .020" - .050" to reduce this, and supposedly it makes a big difference. But they don't ever crank fast like a modern car.

 

No, they have no rating for Cold Cranking Amps, because they are not intended to "crank" anything. They are storage batteries for solar cell systems, etc. Not deep cell like for RVs (which wouldn't work either). I know deep cells aren't cheap. I had one in a camper years ago. But I can't believe anyone would put one of these in a truck. Oh, unless he was trying to sell it and had access to one cheap.

 

I just realized I started this thread with questions about rewiring my truck. Then when I started rewiring it a few days ago, I forgot I had this thread started, and started posting the rewiring info in my build thread starting at thread 290 on page 20.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4-project.html

So, look there if you want to see what I'm doing. This thread will not be updated again.