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I'm in real trouble w/ my '05 5.4-need help!

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  #31  
Old 03-28-2012, 09:08 AM
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Ok, guys. Problem finally diagnosed. Afetr trying every known way to get number two to start firing I did a compression check and even before using the gauge you could tell that number two was pretty much dead. Removed the cover and BAM! Left intake valve keeper, spring and rocker are in the bottom of the head and the valve is stuck shut. VERY LUCKY! If it had fallen down it would have destroyed the motor. Now need to pull the head and make a decision. The cam lobe is buggered up but looks like it could be turned. Anyways, I am not a fan of these engines at this point. This one was cared for very well and not strained at all. Just bad products. Thanks Ford.
 
  #32  
Old 03-28-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by truwest1
Ok, guys. Problem finally diagnosed. Afetr trying every known way to get number two to start firing I did a compression check and even before using the gauge you could tell that number two was pretty much dead. Removed the cover and BAM! Left intake valve keeper, spring and rocker are in the bottom of the head and the valve is stuck shut. VERY LUCKY! If it had fallen down it would have destroyed the motor. Now need to pull the head and make a decision. The cam lobe is buggered up but looks like it could be turned. Anyways, I am not a fan of these engines at this point. This one was cared for very well and not strained at all. Just bad products. Thanks Ford.
cool, you should have done a compression wet/dry to start with like someone suggested. Never trust a dealer tech that only knows how to read a scan tool. Oh and always double check your scan tools reading with a manual gauge.
You might be able to put compressed air to that cylinder and replace the spring/keeper without removing the head it depends on the shape of the cam.
 
  #33  
Old 03-28-2012, 10:29 AM
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Did the compression test as soon as I could. Truck had to sit for a few months. Not sure what you mean about replacing the spring and keeper. The valve seems to be stuck closed. Both the rocker and the cam lobe are scored up pretty good.
 
  #34  
Old 03-28-2012, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by truwest1
Did the compression test as soon as I could. Truck had to sit for a few months. Not sure what you mean about replacing the spring and keeper. The valve seems to be stuck closed. Both the rocker and the cam lobe are scored up pretty good.
oh ok bent valve? cams are funny once they are damaged a little they tend to come apart quick.
 
  #35  
Old 03-28-2012, 11:05 AM
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Dunno yet. Can't seem to post a pic. Valve is stuck shut. Spring, keeper, and rocker were off and laying inside. Can't push down to valve.
 
  #36  
Old 03-28-2012, 10:33 PM
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If the keeper came off the valve was hit by the piston and bent, now it is stuck in the guide. The worn cam shaft will need to be replaced. You can't have damage to the cam and lifter and have them live into the future. Bad luck but not terrible luck, unless you find the piston broken and the rod bent. Thats bad luck.
 
  #37  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:43 AM
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Thanks Papa Tiger! I agree with you completely! Next question then is do I go ahead and get both heads re-done when the lower end has 150k on it? These are easy miles with no towing and oil changes every 5k.
 
  #38  
Old 03-29-2012, 01:55 PM
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I would test the engine. put a PSI gauge in the oil pressure port and see if The motor has good oil pressure when it is warmed up to operating temps. The compression test and intake manifold vacuum tests tell you the top end of the engine condition. A leak down test will tell you the piston ring/leaking valve condition of the rest. At 150,000 miles I would give hard thought to a crate motor or a Junk yard motor depending on my plans for the truck. If you had many less miles on it say 40-60,000 with good mechanical returns on the tests I would just fix the head involved. But now my advise is motor/motor/motor. To post a pic use your album and refer people to it. Just click on option in albums.
 
  #39  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:26 PM
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With that many miles, I also would replace the engine. There are good used to be found at a decent price. But check out remanufactured prices as well before acting.
 
  #40  
Old 04-01-2012, 11:20 AM
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Papa and Greg, yes, and borescope confirms the piston has damage on the surface. Looks like valve got stuck open and slammed into. If you have any recommended sites for used/reman engines let me know. It will take me two months to save up the funds for the repair so have time.
 
  #41  
Old 04-01-2012, 08:49 PM
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Ford and Jasper both make quality remanufactured engines. I don't have any prices, but I'm sure they aren't cheap. I know the 2 valve 5.4L and 4.6L engines cost over $3000 exchange. As to a used engine, I would start looking at your local salvage yards. That way if there is a problem, it might be easier to correct. Most salvage yards have a locator service that can locate a good used engine or other parts you may need for you.
 
  #42  
Old 04-02-2012, 05:37 PM
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Thanks Greg. Have already looked into long blocks from many sources including those. I don't think I have enough confidence in this engine design to invest so much. Just seems like this 5.4 is a real bad engine. May just pay the last few payments and junk it. Too bad too cuz I loved the truck's look and ride.
 
  #43  
Old 04-02-2012, 07:58 PM
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Just have a junk yard motor put into it. You can get your investment back out of it at trade or sale time. It's not a bad thing you have.
 
  #44  
Old 04-02-2012, 08:13 PM
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Looking into that now Tiger. Have not found one for under $2500 yet. Gonna keep looking though.
 
  #45  
Old 04-02-2012, 08:15 PM
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That money jumps right back into your pocket when it fires back up again. Your credit union will go for a crate motor too. The value of the truck goes back up from scrap to real $$$. LOL
 
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