Looks to me like the number for your switch is right, 0L 11572-A. But the keys and cylinder are 1A 11582-A. The number you listed is shown in the 1952 Chassis Manual as correct for the 48-50s. That number crosses to the number I listed in the 1964 reprint edition. You'll also need the switch retainer spring, if it's not included with the switch, 0L 11581 (or 1A 11581-B as listed in the 1964 manual), and maybe (if you don't have it) the bezel 0L 11580. These parts are common to all models. Stu
I'm glad to hear that, since I ordered the 8A last night. I didn't see the spring in the catalog, but I wasn't looking for it either. I did see the bezel, and I'll need to order one. Thanks again for the info. This site and you knowledgeable folks are making this project "start" a lot easier. I have not really "worked" on a car since my first... a '57 Ford Custom. But I had to work on that one constantly.
My truck is currently wired negative ground. It starts and runs, and the ammeter indication is backwards (goes toward discharge with higher RPM).
I want to change it back to positive ground. I think the only thing I need to do after switching the battery leads is to polarize the generator before I start it. Is this correct? I have never polarized a generator, but found these instructions:
"To polarize the generator, simply make a short jumper wire to short between the battery (b or bat) and generator (g or gen) lugs on the voltage regulator. Only a split-second or a spark is required, so simply tap your jumper wire onto the lugs and pull them right back off."
Will that work? My voltage regulator is marked "ARM" "FLD" "BAT" so do I short the BAT to the FLD or to the ARM> I'm assuming the ARM is the armature and the FLD is for Field, so I want to short the BAT to the FLD. Is that correct?
And the coil looks aftermarket. Does it matter if the ground is pos or neg for the coil to work?
Wish I had paid more attention when my Dad was working on cars when I was a kid.
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