1996 F150 4.9 M5OD 2WD std cab SB

So let me get this straight I have to pull the entire E-brake assy to remove the PCM? I see I have two tabs to compress as well UGH!

Also I want a double check on my thinking on part #s.

I have a F6TF-12A650-BC Part number for my current PCM.

F6TZ-12A650-BC is the same as the Z means service part right?
I am about 95% on that but still having my doubts..........

Thanks yall.

 

The PCM comes out from the engine side of the firewall. Remove the connector then you should see a few screws holding a metal bracket around the PCM. Pull those screws off then the PCM will start to slide out. If an EEC-V is the same physical size as an EEC-IV then you may find the PCM hits the inner fender well before it is clear of the firewall. I usually take the extra 10 minutes to remove said fender well cover.

Cut from my 1996 Ford Service CD:

Powertrain Control Module (PCM)


Gasoline and Diesel Engines


Removal

1. Note: Refer to «EVTM» for location of PCM in specific vehicle.

Disconnect battery negative cable.

2. Loosen engine control sensor wiring (12A581) to PCM connector retainer bolt.

3. Remove engine control sensor wiring connector from Powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650).

4. Remove the two PCM seal nuts and loosen left fender liner screws and remove liner or bend down to clear Powertrain control module. Remove Powertrain control module.

Next question: Why are you changing the PCM?

 

possible O2 sensor circuit fault.

 

Would you mind giving us the details of the issue, any error codes and what has been done to get to this point?

 

I know one of the codes is P0155. There are five others as well. All pretaining to o2 heater circuit faults as well as general O2 sensor failure.

I tested the grounds to see if the heater circuits were grounding and switching power which they ere not. I replaced one O2 sensor that was still under waranty to verify the validity of my tests and continued to see the same issues. I verified that all the O2 sensors ohmed within manufacturer spec 6.2-6.8 ohms with a nominal resistance of 6.5 ohms across the board. I tested the continuity of the top two sensors to verify that there was still a wire there. There is.
I disconected the PCM wiring to do this and attempted to remove the PCM which will not budge. I took the two 11mm OD nuts off so it should come out. I noticed either a galvanic or acid type corrosion on top of The PCM where it was visable so belive that it may be related.

Short of a short there is no real possible cause other than a PCM fault.

Still, short of using some mechanical persuasion how does the darned thing come out?

 

Push it from the back side. If there is that much corrosion you are most likely correct with your diagnosis IMHO.

 

Dont know if the corrosion is a factor or if it is simply an internal fault. The corrosion is odd as the truck is not exceedingly rusty for being from Minnesota which uses chloride. The PCM is fairly protected being in the cab and all?