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Old 07-23-2011, 08:53 AM
greywynd greywynd is offline
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Dana 60 alignment specs

Anyone have/know the specs for the Dana 60's? Seems the crew cab has an issue, drivers side has too much inward lean (camber). Anyone know how it can be adjusted, and what the spec should be?
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1991 F350 4x4 E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, SRW, Crewcab, now with Meyer plow.
1990(?) F350 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, with Meyer poly plow, needs a body swap.
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1989 F350 2wd C6 N/A 7.3 Diesel Dually w/flatbed dump, retired with a broken frame rail.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:40 AM
tecgod13 tecgod13 is offline
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Only the toe is adjustable on a stock dana 60. You can get aftermarket kingpins that can adjust either the caster or camber (don't remember which). You can also get spindle shims that will do a bit of adjustment as well.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:29 PM
greywynd greywynd is offline
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Guess I need to tear into it then and see what I find, drivers side front leans in almost an inch at the top of the wheel, and is badly wearing the inside of the tire.

There's no play in it though, and I've checked it a couple times now, and no sign of any damage, things being bent etc. I want to put new u joints in it anyway, so I think I'll tear it down and see. Maybe it has the adjustable kingpins and something has moved, who knows.
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2001 F250 Superduty, 6.8V10, 2WD, auto. The 'family' truck.
1991 F350 4x4 E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, SRW, Crewcab, now with Meyer plow.
1990(?) F350 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, with Meyer poly plow, needs a body swap.
1991 F250 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, 'the runaway'
1989 F350 2wd C6 N/A 7.3 Diesel Dually w/flatbed dump, retired with a broken frame rail.
1988 F250 4x4 C6 N/A 6.9 Diesel, parts truck
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:44 PM
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something would almost have to be bent or otherwise fubar'd. my 60 has a pretty good amount of camber, but it should be the same on both sides, and the top of the tire should lean out, not in
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Old 07-25-2011, 12:01 AM
greywynd greywynd is offline
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I kept thinking it looked funky, so I used a 2' level to check the tire for plumb. Passenger side was in at the top maybe 1/8", driver's side close to an inch. I think the toe-in is out a little too, or, actually in a little, checking with a tape it seems a bit more than normal, but with the one tire worn funny, it's harder to measure.

I've jacked it up twice now, used a bar to check for play in different directions, no noticeable play in the kingpins, tie rod ends, springs, etc. I would think that to be out of whack as far as it is, something would be visible, either slop, or damage, but no signs of anything.
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2001 F250 Superduty, 6.8V10, 2WD, auto. The 'family' truck.
1991 F350 4x4 E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, SRW, Crewcab, now with Meyer plow.
1990(?) F350 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, with Meyer poly plow, needs a body swap.
1991 F250 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, 'the runaway'
1989 F350 2wd C6 N/A 7.3 Diesel Dually w/flatbed dump, retired with a broken frame rail.
1988 F250 4x4 C6 N/A 6.9 Diesel, parts truck
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:29 PM
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My book states alignment specs for a 91 F350 4x4 are : Caster 2 P-4 3/4 P (positive), Camber 0, Toe 0.5 inches out. It also states for a monobeam front axle the upper kingpin is tightened to 500-600 foot pounds. Good luck with that one!
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:41 PM
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with the price of fuel and tires,it would actually pay you huge to just pay a shop to align her.you'd get all the $ back and then some in short order.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:23 PM
greywynd greywynd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlouritt View Post
My book states alignment specs for a 91 F350 4x4 are : Caster 2 P-4 3/4 P (positive), Camber 0, Toe 0.5 inches out. It also states for a monobeam front axle the upper kingpin is tightened to 500-600 foot pounds. Good luck with that one!
Thanks for the info!

Actually, 5-600 ft lbs isn't hard to do, tractor trailer lug nuts are often in the 450-500ft-lb range. A 3/4" drive torque wrench should cover that high a torque.

Guess I'll tear into in the next couple weeks when I get some time, see and go through it, then get the alignment done. Being in rust country, it's always cheaper for me to spend time freeing frozen/rusted bolts than to pay hourly shop rates for them to do it.
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2001 F250 Superduty, 6.8V10, 2WD, auto. The 'family' truck.
1991 F350 4x4 E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, SRW, Crewcab, now with Meyer plow.
1990(?) F350 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, with Meyer poly plow, needs a body swap.
1991 F250 4x4, E40D, N/A 7.3 Diesel, 'the runaway'
1989 F350 2wd C6 N/A 7.3 Diesel Dually w/flatbed dump, retired with a broken frame rail.
1988 F250 4x4 C6 N/A 6.9 Diesel, parts truck
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:41 PM
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chances are pretty good that you wont have to replace the the king pins themselves. the uppers have a nylon bushing in them with a spring to pre load, and the lowers have a tapered roller bearing, unless there real scored up, you usually just need to rebuild
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:54 AM
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Well I am learning more and more about the suspension every time i see these posts....although there is never a post about the D44...I trust it....but nobody else does...
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:54 AM
 
 
 
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