Changed Injector, now is knocking
#17
ok, so we checked to see if the injectors where level with each other and they seemed to be so we pulled #7 anyhow and inspected it, then oiled it and dropped it back it. we used a rubber mallet to tap it down and heard it thud back in place, hooked everything up, pulled the glow plugs and blew oil out of the chambers to be safe, replaced the glow plugs and fired it back up and the knock is still there but goes away when you rev it up and let it settle back down but still knocks at idle. we agree that it doesn't sound mechanical but wonder if the problem may have something to do with the fact that #7 is new and that at 179K miles the truck had 20 gallons of gas go through it, it now has 199k.
#2 and 6 do seem a bit weaker, could they be contributing to the problem?
any thoughts or suggestions?
#2 and 6 do seem a bit weaker, could they be contributing to the problem?
any thoughts or suggestions?
#18
#19
Well when I got this message I had already put the valve cover and intercooler tube back in place.
Another theory we got from a friend is that you have to work all the air out of the oil rail for it to go away. so we're going to try that and see how it goes. If that still doesn't work we'll order a O ring kit and swap the injectors.
Another theory we got from a friend is that you have to work all the air out of the oil rail for it to go away. so we're going to try that and see how it goes. If that still doesn't work we'll order a O ring kit and swap the injectors.
#21
Most of the advise has been given already, but here goes...
When swapping injectors pull the #7 and #8 first, then remove all the glow plugs. At that point all the fuel and oil will have drained into the two back cylinders. Remove the remaining injectors and prep the new ones (new O rings and coppers). Check to insure all the cups are clear and the old coppers came out with the old injectors.
Lube the new injector O rings and reinstall. Press in as much as you can then with a dead blow hammer seat them. You will hear when they are fully seated. TQ to spec. Lay a 2' level or straight edge across each side. They should all be seated evenly.
Reinstall the valve covers with one or two bolts and turn the motor over by hand or by bumping the start selonoid on the passanger fire wall (this keeps the fuel pump from running).
Do this 3-4 times until the oil and fuel clears.
Remove valve covers, reinstall glow plugs and wire harness and button it up.
Turn the key to the run pos but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump, once it turns off turn the key off and back on again. Do this 3-4 times and then crank. 15 seconds at a time, should fire off on the 3-4th time.
It will run rough and start hard for the first 50 or so miles, the only way to shorten this it to take it out and ROD on it, getting the air out takes lots of throttle changes.
Sounds to me like you still have air in the system.
When swapping injectors pull the #7 and #8 first, then remove all the glow plugs. At that point all the fuel and oil will have drained into the two back cylinders. Remove the remaining injectors and prep the new ones (new O rings and coppers). Check to insure all the cups are clear and the old coppers came out with the old injectors.
Lube the new injector O rings and reinstall. Press in as much as you can then with a dead blow hammer seat them. You will hear when they are fully seated. TQ to spec. Lay a 2' level or straight edge across each side. They should all be seated evenly.
Reinstall the valve covers with one or two bolts and turn the motor over by hand or by bumping the start selonoid on the passanger fire wall (this keeps the fuel pump from running).
Do this 3-4 times until the oil and fuel clears.
Remove valve covers, reinstall glow plugs and wire harness and button it up.
Turn the key to the run pos but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump, once it turns off turn the key off and back on again. Do this 3-4 times and then crank. 15 seconds at a time, should fire off on the 3-4th time.
It will run rough and start hard for the first 50 or so miles, the only way to shorten this it to take it out and ROD on it, getting the air out takes lots of throttle changes.
Sounds to me like you still have air in the system.
#24
#25
#26
I realize it was more than just a film Jim, but after sucking out what i could, then cranking the motor with the IDM relay pulled and the glow plugs out, I removed about as much oil as I could from the cylinders. I let it idle for a minute then took it for a spin. First mile was going easy on it. When I got on it after the first mile I thought I might have lost the turbo for all the white smoke, but it thinned out quickly. Repeated romping on it had the smoke down to almost nothing in about 5 miles.
Not saying you or Joe is wrong. Heaven knows Joe's had his share of engine issues. Just sharing my experiences.
Not saying you or Joe is wrong. Heaven knows Joe's had his share of engine issues. Just sharing my experiences.
#27
Exactly. Whitish/blue smoke for a few miles is somewhat normal due to the oil burning off the cylinders and exhaust.
White smoke (fuel) means an injector is not seated, has a bad copper or broken nozzle.
#28
#30
I have to agree, smoke at first is all right. When we started it, it was smoking a blue haze for a bit so I took it out for a spin and I left one hell of a trail of smoke for about a mile, maybe a bit more but after running it around for a few minutes it started to clear and is now gone.
We were worried too, it had me scared that we had blown a O ring, but once it cleared up I knew it was just due to having not enough pressure to the injector and all the oil I put on the injector.
As the update, it is currently still knocking, not as loud but still knocking a bit. My buddy has driving it almost about 100 miles and even took it to the local dealer for a oil change, inspection and to ask them about the knocking noise. The ford mechanic said "It's a diesel, they do that".
So we'll see if it suddenly clears up any time soon, but I'm sure having crappy oil didn't help any. I told him that he needs to change his oil, it was starting to look like sludge.
We were worried too, it had me scared that we had blown a O ring, but once it cleared up I knew it was just due to having not enough pressure to the injector and all the oil I put on the injector.
As the update, it is currently still knocking, not as loud but still knocking a bit. My buddy has driving it almost about 100 miles and even took it to the local dealer for a oil change, inspection and to ask them about the knocking noise. The ford mechanic said "It's a diesel, they do that".
So we'll see if it suddenly clears up any time soon, but I'm sure having crappy oil didn't help any. I told him that he needs to change his oil, it was starting to look like sludge.