I know this topic has been covered to death already. but i got an 05 F550 dump with the 6.0 diesel in it. this truck is part of a fleet and it's been beat up with plowing towing hauling everything. a quick history/run down on it is.
In 08 the ficm was replaced under warranty.
In February of 2011 the ficm was replaced again as well as the gpcm
Now my current problem started as this. A guy was driving the truck back to the shop at the end of the day and he notice oil squirting out of the engine compartment he pulled over right away and we got the truck towed back to the shop. upon inspection i Noticed that the oil filter cap was in very crooked. The oil change had been done maybe 2 thousand miles, almost 2 months ago. After i put oil back in the truck, only need about 7 quarts, i couldn't get the truck restarted. I replaced one battery.
I can't remember if the oil pressure gauge worked or not, but i'm assuming that it did. When i crank, i get no oil pressure.
This is what i've checked so far:
I pulled the oil filter and cap out and pushed down on the oil return and cranked. It filled up in under ten seconds.
I check voltage at the ICP on the passenger side valve cover and got .25 volts cranking.
I check voltage at the ficm. stayed a strong 47-49 volts.
since the oil filter res. filled in under ten seconds, can i assume that the lpop is good? but would low pressure oil still be suspect?
seeing .25V at the ICP, would the next logical place to look be the IPR?
because i already took it out... The screen wasn't crusty, but what should and shouldn't move in there? There was some sludge looking stuff inside the holes.
also, how much play should i see in the inlet side of the turbo?
And as a side note, The ficm was installed at the dealer... only the front two bolts were installed, no rubber isolators... Very upsetting from a dealership that had a good rep.
Still battling this thing. I've installed a new IPR and i'm still getting the same .25 volts at the icp with the key on and while cranking. I've verified oil level.
I've done the air test using over 100 psi. I hooked power and ground to the IPR and I can't tell if i can hear air pissing out from the oil filter housing, oil fill, drivers side valve cover, or turbo oil return.
I'm still confused about the no oil pressure reading on the gauge while cranking, however seeing the oil filter housing filling within 10 seconds while cranking with the return depressed.
Is there something i'm missing, or is it possible i have a leak thats just really hard to hear... I'm trying to avoid having to take the intake out to get to the pump and cooler to check for leaks or obvious signs of damage, but it seems that's the direction i'm heading, or possibly that the hpop is just shot.
7 quarts low oil is almost 1/2 the oil in it so thhats alot
I also beleive the truck died while running no one noticed for almost 2 months Id chew there *** for not checking the oil; leval weekly
plan for the worst
I would think if your shure you heer air in the oil filter than the HPOP is gone
I do know what you meaan by hearing air allover
I would think if you could fill the oil filter housing half way with oil hold the drain back and then blow the system with air and see if you get any air bubble thru the oil filter housing assembly would be a positive ID bad HPOP
have you tried a stethascope
Benny oem hpop 1/8/14,update ipr screen
2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
I'll clarify, using a stethescope i put air to the icp hole using the otc adapter. I put power to the ipr and listened to each, oil filter housing, drivers side valve cover, turbo oil return and oil filler on the passenger side valve cover. It was hard to tell if it was actually air coming out because it was a faint hiss... however without applying power and ground to the ipr i can definately hear air coming from the oil filter housing seems to be more pronounced in the standpipe. With the air pressure cranked up to about 150 it seems that with the ipr on i can hear air coming from the turbo oil return.
I pulled off the intake and egr cooler and took the hpop cover off. I could hear air, through the stethoscope from behind near and around the gear in the back with voltage to the ipr.
There were other faint indications of air, i moved the scope to the stc fitting and it seemed like the sound of air got less then when right next to the gear.
I think it's a good assumption that i need a hpop. The other thing was that while trying to get the cover off, i broke it. sooo now i need a cover. Not good.
as a note i was only doing it for 5-10 seconds MAX at a time with intermissions in between "cycles."
So i pulled the hpop out, the stc fitting had a lot of play to it. I'm planning to replace the hpop, stc fitting, hpop cover (since i broke it taking it out...) intake gaskets, egr, gaskets, turbo return and feed oil gaskets, ipr harness, o rings for the fuel filter lines.
i also pulled off the filter housing cover...whatever it's called, and found the screen was blown out. Is there anything else i'm missing, or something else i should be looking for. Should i take the oil filter/cooler assembly apart and inspect?
I finally got all the parts and time to start working on this thing again. I Put the new hpop with updated fitting, had all the injectors tested and had to replace two of them. I got the updated stand pipes as well.
I put all the injectors in, the oil rails, oil pump and stand pipes. Before i went any further i air tested it, and it sounds worse. do i have to adjust an updated stc fitting if it came attached to the pump? Also i heard a ticking sound coming from the area of the new stand pipes... any ideas?
Well if you took all of that out and replaced it all, its going to take ALOT of cranking to start. Make sure the turbo is lined up correctly to the up pipe, and its going to run extremely rough, smoke, chug, until it builds up all pressures and air goes away.
Once it starts, let it idle, look for leaks and watch gauges.
Make sure everything it torqued properly, and plugged back in/connected
2006 Ford F350 6-Speed, Aluminum Flat bed, Regular Cab, Blue spring,SRL SCT Tuned, 4 Inch Turbo Back Exhaust, Scan Gauge II, 03 Turbo, EGR delete, 6.4 Banjo Bolts, ARP Head-Studs, 2In leveled on 35 in TOYO M/T w/pro comp wheels -12mm offset
Well, i realize all that... But i'm not really close to that step yet. I'm saying I put it back together with out the oil cooler, turbo valve covers intake egr. Right now i'm air testing it again, before i go any further.
Two things, I pulled an injector out and found a tiny sliver of metal hangin onto the edge of the injector. I looked down in the hole and couldn't see anything, The injector was brand new. I took it out after The air test because i heard a leak in the are of the dummy plug or possibly injector. When i pulled the dummy plug out I found that apparently I put it in crooked or something because the nylon split washer under the o ring was kind of crooked. But would that cause the large amount of air coming out in that area? I guess i'll take that manifold off again and inspect things alittle closer.
Also is there any chance on getting a bad hpop from ford? I'll tell ya, this job is turning into a nightmare....
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.