Almost considering the stealership so I quit throwing parts at it.

 

Well, start with the suggestions Subford mentioned. could save you $65+ labor an hour. And even if you take it to the $tealership, they may not even have the Technical Know-how if they just have young-guys turning wrenches for them. I've heard of some $tealerships not even knowing about Recall on older Fords with dual fual tanks and had no idea what i was talking about. Remember, it's your Coin to drop.

 

Tried to find a PIP, what else is this called? Or what is the unabbreviate wordage? Can't find it on any of the parts websites.

 

Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP): Provides crankshaft or camshaft position information for ignition synchronization.
It is located on the stator assembly inside the distributor.

As I said above:
But make sure the small push-on wire at the starter relay on the fender is not hot when you turn the key to the start position before changing the Ignition Switch.
If the power relay clicks on when you turn the key to the start and run positions then the Ignition switch is OK also.

 

Good to know, it always clicks just sometimes doesn't even attempt to start.

 

Could it also be called a distributor pickup? Or just an ignition pickup?

 

Bad Fender-mounted Relay, corroded/open wiring comes to mind. Be sure to check all the wiring leading to/from the relay and also to the solenoid on the Starter. If any "Green" is evident, get that stripped back to good copper wire and go from there.

Also, have you performed the Self-Test mention on Page 1? This could save you countless dollar$$$$. If everything mentioned has a "PASS", then as SubFord mentioned, PIP may be the culprit. A Remaned Motorcraft distributor is about $90. It's just about $25-$30 more for 1 hour of labor @ your nearest shop.

 

Yeah I have dealt with the fender mounted relay for the starter before but it wouldn't just make my truck shut right off while driving down the freeway.

 

It can be called that.
But that is not the right name for it in the Ford shop and parts manuals.

 

I am just looking at the parts on OReilly's. BWD ME58 - Distributor Stator Assembly | O'Reilly Auto Parts is this correct? They give a nice military discount so I usually go there.

 

Yes that is the right part but the distributor has to be removed and tore all the way down to replace it. Most of the time you will need some kind of press to replace it.
Also you will need to time the engine with a timing light with the SPOUT shorting bar removed after you put the distributor back in.

 

Yep have a digital MAC timing light and know where the spout is. FML lol. Does a rebuilt distributor come with this stuff?

 

About 75% of the time a rebuilt distributor from an auto part store comes with a bad PIP sensor in them. They seem to test the PIP sensor and if it tests good they do not replace it.
The problem is most of the distributors sent in are sent in for a bad PIP sensor that fails after about 20 miles of driving so of course the PIP sensor passes their tests.

 

Mother...I need a new truck. This $2000 truck is not worth all the parts I've had to replace.

 

I used to think that way. That is until my brother inlaw bought a truck and complains about the $650/month payment and high insurance premiums. I just put $3000 in mine for an engine, then almost $250 for all four tie rod ends and still have a few things left to do but it's worth it to me. I know the truck, I know whats new and whats old on the truck and whats prone to fail. And with the wealth of knowledge on this site, there's not much you can't fix yourself with a little help from these guys and gals.

When you get nickled and dimed to death it gets frustrating but when it's fixed, you'll have a great ride you can be proud of. Hang in there!