Looking for just a mild rv torque camshaft that doesnt require the need to install all new valve springs and rockers ect. any suggestions on a mild rv cam??

 

What does your motor rev to now? 3500 rpm?

"Good RV and towing...."

1000 to 5000. Kit includes springs:

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=850&sb=2

Stock motor? 351m or 400? Miles? Other mods?

 

The stock single springs have to go, as well as the exhaust valves rotator retainers if your heads have them. I would get a good set of keepers as well. You will need to check pushrod length, most aftermarket cams have a different base circle. Get a good timing chain set and put the crank gear in the zero slot.

 

something in the advertised 260 duration around .480 lift at most. ran a 268HE comp cam hyd worked great. But I'm thinking you in the lower duration something peaking around 3000 rpm torque/hrspwr. Upgrade springs is a good thing down the road. The coils in the springs from factory have a bigger diameter and coil bind is possible around .510 lift or higher. depends on if heads have been cut on. but this seems to be the place things start to go bad with factory springs. 252 to 262 duration is a good place to start and have some mileage. if automatic tranny with factory torque converter these are things you need to know. If manual tranny a little more duration you can get away with. their is lots of potential with this engine and the first thing is getting the compression up to 9:1 and good timing chain. The off the shelf napa specials start to stretch in 20,000 mile or less depending on your right foot. Get good chain!!!!

 

thanks. only reason i ask is, to install the springs pretty much requires pulling the heads. i know you can fill the cylinder with air to hold them up but it requires a special spark plug threaded fitting piece.

The motor is fresh, only has about 30k miles on it and i dont want to have to pull it down again to do the work. I just want a decent mild cam, increase some power. already has headers, edelbrock intake, edelbrock carb, comp cams double roller timing set. i think i have found a good cam that will work great.

 

once you get everything completed keep us informed on your new creation. never have enough information these days.

 

Actually, I seldom even use air. If you don't turn it way down the air will end up pushing the piston down in the cylinder, then air ends up getting in anyways. I just run the piston down and feed a old extension cord in, the thick round ones work best. Then move the piston up till it stops, sometimes the cord won't hold one up and you have to try again. It just makes me feel better knowing the valves can not drop.

 

I'ld rather change just springs than pull heads to change springs. The air adapter is cheap at NAPA. It's a lifetime lasting tool, and I do it with the piston at TDC. That way .... even if you bump it hard enough to loose seal, the valve stem is there to grab with fingers and pull back ... but at 80 psi+, it takes like ..... over 80 pounds to push the valve down.

Also, in 1987 or 88 when my '77 had only about 40K miles I installed a Crane Fireball cam and new lifters, it's advertised lift was .484 I / .510 E. and I never swapped the springs. in 1990-91 while building my house I burnt a valve and needed a fast repair so I pulled some heads off another 351M and had them done, and just left the stock springs on them. When I got them back I just swapped heads. That was at maybe 70K. Those heads are still on it at just over 102K.
She's seen near 5,000 rpm once or twice .... whatever in passing gear?