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Well how much should I pay for the 1988 F150 4x4 with the 5.8 swapped in? I don't already own the truck, I'm looking to buy.
Without actually seeing a truck in person it's hard to estimate what a fair price would be. Here in WV a running 4wd truck with a decent body would be around $1300-$2000. An ext cab truck would go for a little more and low mileage rust free trucks can fetch $4000 to the right buyer.
It really depends on what your willing to pay, and what your willing to put into it to keep it running. Any old truck is going to have issues of some kind. The good thing is, you have a wealth of knowledge here that will help you save time, money and aggravation. That alone is worth a lot of coin
Well its a reg cab looked like just minor surface issues. There is rust on the rear wheel well and on the bottom cab corners.
That is very common. Also check the spring hangers and shackles on the rear. They tend to rust and fail. The good thing is, it's relatively cheap to fix but can be a PITA getting all of the factory rivets out. Can you get any pictures of it? If so, get plenty of the body and interior.
Have you been able to drive it? If so, how's the steering? 4wd work?
Also, you can usually tell if a truck is worn out just from age or if it's been abused. If you see wires under the hood wrapped in black tape, or hoses plugged off and smog parts missing, that's usually a bad sign. I'm not saying the presence or lack of smog equipment is either good or bad but it does make one wonder why and how it was removed.
I havn't driven it yet since the oil pressure issue but I sure I'll take it for a spin once the motor is swapped. As for the use of it I think they had it pulling a 5th wheel sometimes. I know the suspension as been upgraded to handle the towing.
I paid $800 for this, it's rust free w/177k miles. Needed seats and tires.
$500 for this, it needed a battery.
$1600 for this cuz it is 4wd but has rust.
IOW 4wd is double, rust is 1/2 and looks trump function. Because it needs work offer $400. If he's a dealer of ANY kind walk away. Craigs list is full of deals.
Hes a local mechanic that I have known for a while. He makes some side money on buying used cars and fixing them up. I have been checking Craigslist for months now and havn't really found anything cheap in running condition.
All this talk on low oil pressure my idiot gauge which normally sits on the M or A of Normal is on the O. But it's an idiot light so I don't fully trust it. Is the stock oil sending unit electronic in the sense that I could split the wires and use the aftermarket gauge with the one in the dash? Or is it mechanical? Either way is fine, I just want to know so I can get the right gauge.
Good eye Brad, dark colors hide rust well and taking good pics doesn't hurt.
Op... I buy and sell enough to be considered a salesman myself, though I'd NEVER call myself 1. Just speaking from experience even the most honest salesman is a born liar. Honest 1's are rare. Get us some pics and maybe we can be more help.
I got some pictures on my cell today. Here is one.
The right side seems better with rust. The main rust areas being wheel wells and the bottom cab corner. I think both can be fixed with some new sheet metal. It is a 88 and tagged MD historic so no inspections