Could have an Intermitting signal problem to the EVR, but this much I know...I sent 12vdc dirrectly from the battery to pin #33 at EVR, then grounded the other pin, and it still will not open the EGR.
I just went and picked up a vacuum guage and will check the whole system vacuum and at the EVR/EGR, and should know more later.
It must be poor Vac. or the EGR is binding and needs way more than normal to open.

Thanks Again

 

Don't energize the EVR for more than a second at a time. It could get damaged. I think I messed up mine like this.

 

Well I put a vac. guage at the manifold tree-19.5in/hg. Raised engine speed to about 2000rpm, it held steady, then I dropped throttle to idle, vac. went to 23in/hg momentarily then made a steady drop back to 19.5in/mg.
Checked it after the cannister-same results.
Checked it at the Vac. source (bottom) port of EVR-same results.
Checked at the EGR (top) port of EVR, and at idle-0-1in/hg. Increased and held at about 2000rpms, and it went to only 5in/hg. Then grounded out the left pin on the EVR, and it went to a steady 10in/hg.
Even at 10in/hg. vac. with EVR grounded, EGR still wont open.

I think I am seeing 2 problems still!!
1) At idle, shouldn't I have more than 0-1in/hg vac. to the EGR?

2)I think this EGR should have opened once I had it grounded and 10in/hg?
(Bad EGR valve)??

I read some where (FFI) site I think, that EGR should open 50% at 4in/hg, and 100% at 8in/hg.

EGR is the only other part of this system that has not been replaced!
Starting to look mighty suspect???

Any reinforcements on that?

Thanks

 

Use a vacuum pump to manually open the EGR and a voltmeter connected to the EVP to see if the signal is changing correctly. if you are doing this with the engine on it helps to keep the idle high so the engine won't shut off.

If that checks out, I guess you could connect a vacuum guage in line with the egr while driving to see if the EVR is really opening the EGR or not.

No, the EGR should be closed at idle.

The other test you did grounding the EVR might be unreliable becuase it is a duty cycle component. The computer turns it on and off very quickly. That's why I suggest the above to test it.

 

It was the EGR valve after all.All codes gone.
I still thought drivability would be a little better, however, I think it is getting better MPG's. I have been 100 miles on a little over half a tank(14G), and thats around town 4x4, and 10.50x31 tires.
I think my next upgrade will be a better gear than the 3.08, cause it shifts before it ever gets in the power band with these tires, but thats another issue, and more $.

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!