Hey All!

Just signed up to FTE after reading for the last 6 months (after my Dad told me he was giving me his truck) trying to fill my head with as much info as I can. My Dad decided that he could no longer throw money at his 1980 F-150 Ranger Lariat so he was giving it to me.

<!-- The truck -->
<img src="http://nnperformance.com/images/djork/IMG_0149.JPG" width="1024">

You'll notice the tow bar is down...Sadly that is because he managed to run over a Truck Tire between Washington State and Wyoming taking out the T-Case, Front Driveshaft, Rear Driveshaft, Maybe the Third Member and possibly the rear axles. So right now it doesn't run under it's own power. Otherwise it's still a pretty solid truck. Now...Pretty solid doesn't equal perfect.

I'll start a list:
1) According to the VIN it shipped with a 302, but my Dad swears it has a 351m. When we picked up some valve cover gaskets the part listed for the 351m/c/w worked perfect. Are they the same?
2) When my Dad purchased the truck 15 years ago (In Seattle) the PO had a MSG ignition installed. When he moved to Wyoming he moved it over to the old system with a new distributor cap and now it doesn't start until you release the ignition key from the Start Position. I'm waiting for the truck to be in Reno before I investigate further (since I need to fix the drivetrain).
3) The truck originally came from sea level where it was tweaked and tuned, but once he got it to Wyoming it started acting up. Smoke right after startup, hesitation, low power etc... I'm thinking of taking it to a shop that can tune it for Reno to make sure that it is perfect, or would it be a better idea to learn to tune it myself (I'm not good at carbs).

Other than that it should be a fun project to get back on the road...After I figure out if it will pass emissions...

More pics:

<!-- Another shot -->
<img src="http://nnperformance.com/images/djork/IMG_0151.JPG" width="1024">

<!-- The Cab -->
<img src="http://nnperformance.com/images/djork/IMG_0173.JPG" width="1024">

<!-- The Engine -->
<img src="http://nnperformance.com/images/djork/IMG_0175.JPG" width="1024">

I hope to learn a lot more than I already have, and it's great to find a group of people that still love these old trucks!

Luke

 

Welcome to FTE Luke!

I'm Chris, you'll prolly get to know a variety of people here.

I can only dream of my truck looking as nice as yours, guess that's one of the benefits you have of living in Reno. (BTW thanks for filling out your profile!)

Anyhow, listen - I edited your post a bit, shrunk your pictures down (well, told them to display in a smaller size, I can't really touch your pictures themselves) and added them inline to your post just to keep people from having to click links to see 'em.

This change can be undone if you'd prefer it be the other way, the original code is still in your post.

Anyhow, um, listen... those things are HUGE! I told 'em to display at a max width of 1024 pixels, you might learn how to shrink pictures (or have the hosting service do it for you) instead of posting wall-sized murals.

This may help:

User Gallery & Picture Display Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Thanks Chris!

Yeah, I knew they were huge when I hit "Preview Post" and had to scroll. I like it looking like that much better so I'll leave it (And read the helpful link you added) as I use one of my own websites for hosting.

This truck was actually in Western Washington for much of its life. From the VIN I've learned (Thank you FTE) that it was built in San Jose for delivery to Los Angeles. From there it all gets murky. When my Dad bought it (I was 15 and lusting over it) he learned that the PO had a lot of work done to the truck (Somewhere in the rumored area of 15k) and there is no paperwork. My Dad swears the engine was balanced and blueprinted, but we don't have any confirmation.

It's still a sweet looking truck, and there are some rust areas I need to clean (door sills, between the cab and the canopy and rear fender wells) but nothing that is what I would consider 'major'.

Thanks again for your help!

 

Welcome Luke! You've come to the right spot. Lots of good guys and one old crank - me.

Beautiful truck. WOW! Sorry about the driveline, but that can be fixed. Body work is so hard to put right.

About the engine - valve cover gaskets between the 302/351W engines don't interchange with those of a 351M/400, which are in the "335" series. And, you've just met one of the proponents of the 335 series - ctubutis aka Chris. He's trying to convert me, but I'm playing hard to get.

Yes, those pics are HUGE! I grant that I have an OS for the iPad downloading right now, but it took a long time to get yours to display. I can't even imagine how long they'd take to load on my iPhone. Please consider what Chris suggested.

 

OK, now, for your questions (I just now read the text of your post ).

How many bolts hold the valve covers on?

Six = 302 or 351W
Eight = 351M, 351C or 400

Also, the M-block engines (351C, M, 400) are the only ones to have a fuel pump with the bolts vertically aligned.

The 351C was never installed in trucks by the factory in the US but it's quite popular in Australia (along with the 302C they have over there).

The 351M was phased out during 1982 and replaced with the Windsor variant.

I have no idea of the valve cover gaskets are the same, I'd go compare part numbers on rockauto.com's site.

I imagine in Wyoming you'd need to jet the carb down a few sizes. I forget the recommended sizes but it's on Holley's site somewhere, I think it's one size reduced for each 2,000 feet in elevation but please go verify that.

About your electrical, there are some guys here who are pretty good at that, I'l bet there's even a wiring diagram picture in the archives someplace.

Might also check out the Tech Sticky, look at the DS2 conversion stuff.

 

When we installed the gaskets there were 8 bolts per side.

You can see in this picture the first bottom three (and to show off that I can learn how to post pictures) but you can't see the final bottom one, and the top four.

<img src="http://nnperformance.com/images/djork/IMG_0176.JPG" width="1024">

So either the heads were changed (most likely) and other things were done (it does have a holly carb and Edelbrock intake manifold). But once it ends up in Reno I'll have more time to crawl over the engine bay and try to find as much as I can. Right now it's still in Wyoming waiting for my Dad to tow it over.

Thanks for all the info so quickly!

Luke

 

easy way to tell is that 351c tstat housing mount is horizontal and 302/351w vertical

 

Those are aftermarket valve covers, there is no smog pump (surprise!) or its plumbing, but it nevertheless looks like it could be an M-block. The valve cover bolts are spaced to have 8.

Here is my engine, a 400, for comparison:



Look at Bubba's archive in the 335-forum's tech sticky for an awful lot ofhelp on the M-blocks.

Yes, Gary & Bill (NumberDummy) I am a proponent of turning the M-blocks back into what they were originally designed as in 1971, before they were de-tuned & smogged up and their timing retarded.

BTW, Luke, I suggest hooking up the PCV system again, it looks like yours has been disabled for some reason but it's hard to tell for certain as an AC hose is in he way.

The PCV system allows fresh air to enter one side of the engine while fumes & blow-by are sucked into the intake via the other side. I see what looks like an oil breather cap, instead.



A quick, friendly jab


Northern Nevada Performance?

Coming Soon?

Last Modified Sat 06 Jun 2009 03:33:55 PM MDT?

 

I think Chris meant "carb", and I'd agree you are jetted way rich if it hasn't been changed since set for sea level. If you do have the M you surely have the Autolite 2150 carb. It is a very good carb and an easy one to learn to work on. IIRC, it uses Holley jets which are easily found.

There is another possible culprit for the problem, and that's the power valve. If it is either blown or leaking it will dump raw fuel into the intake. That'll make it smoke and give you little power. You can tell by pulling the carb apart and checking the power valve by sucking on it - after drying the gas off! If it doesn't hold a vacuum it's shot.

As for the electrical problem, the factory shop manual shows a "primary resistance wire", aka resistor, that supplies power to the ignition module. However, it is bypassed in the Start position. My guess is that you have a problem with that wiring or in the ignition switch itself.

 

The upper Radiator hose looks more vertical than anything. But you're eyes may be better than mine, and I can get better pictures/information when I get it in Reno.

Yes, the PCV system has been removed from the picture. Along with the Air Pump. Which makes me kind of nervous when it comes to smog in Washoe County as "If it's on the sticker, it needs to be there!". I'll have to figure out how to set it back up, reroute it or just put it back in. Not something I'm exactly looking forward to, but if push comes to pull I'll register it in Wyoming and just drive over ever year to renew it (until Nevada figures that out).

As to the Jab...You may know how it is when you have friends with good ideas (to them) and you have some cash (that they don't pay back). I have a feeling it was a lost cause before it started.

But then again, it is a pretty sweet logo. If I say so myself.

Luke

 

Welcome to the forum Luke. That sure is one nice looking truck, I really like the color.

 

Well, I guess it's time for an update.

My Dad brought the truck over to Nevada late last year so I'm now able to identify and purchase parts to get it going again. So far I've managed to find a new T-Case (BW1345) and an uncut Ranger Lariat center bezel (Which I'm now thinking I don't want to cut).

At this point I'm down to pulling the Third Member to see if there is any damage, and finding a driveshaft that will work. Found a lot of 133WB pickups at the local PnP, but the forklift drivers don't really care about making sure they can be used again. And the one 117WB already had the driveshaft missing.

Hopefully I'll be able to locate one that will work and get it up and running again soon.

Take it easy all,

Luke

 

Hey Luke,

You have a great looking truck there, so keep up the good work on her. I have found that checking out salvage yards a little further out from metropolitan areas will yield you better results. I know that for parts related to my truck, an 83, I've had to do that in Oklahoma City as relatively few of them have any trucks that I can use parts off of. Too many have gone to the crusher in my area so I've had to branch out to small towns and use the good 'ole boy system (which is usually better because parts are cheaper and in better shape).

I am also a fan of the 351M/400s - they are great truck engines and you can do quite a bit to them to wake them up.

Welcome to the forums and make sure to ask us questions when a search doesn't yield you what you need.

Aaron

 

I would definitely not cut up that Ranger Lariat bezel. The Ranger Lariat trim level was only offered from 1980-1981 on the 7th gen (80-86 for Ctubutis) trucks, so that bezel is a little rare. Taking in the fact that most people have spent the last 30 years cutting them up, they're even more rare if they still haven't been cut. It took me about 5 months to find mine, and I had to have it shipped from Oklahoma to Florida. I paid $45 for mine, but it was worth it since it was nearly perfect.

I'm surprised nobody said anything about the power steering pump bracket in your truck. That is the stock slider-type adjustment bracket that came on all 1980-1981 351M/400 that were installed in F-Series trucks and Broncos. That along with the 8 valve cover bolts is a good indication that your motor is a 351M/400.

 

Beautiful truck brother!!!!