My son has a1995 f150 4x4. He replace the front wheel bearing while doing the brakes and he tighten the bearings to factory specs, something like 200lbs? Now he has some growling noise in the front, i told to back the torque off the bearings. I told the way i do bearings, tighten them up while spinning the wheel then back it off a 1/4 turn. He still has the noise. Any suggestions, he is thinking its in the manual locking hub system. Can't find much detail or pictures on this.
I have a 1994 f150 4x4 that originally had automatic locking hubs. For some reason they started to partially engage on their own and produced a growling noise (dryed out, lack of lube) and I remedied the problem by installing manual locking hubs. If he disassembled them completely instead of taking them out as a unit they are easy to get the parts in backwards.
Thats what i thought, one or both side were enaged. They are manual hubs but when he took all apart he thinks he might have put something in wrong. I also told him to take the front driveshaft out, just to see if that would help. He hasn't done that yet. That why he and i were looking for a picture or diagram. Thanks.
200 ft/lbs seems like a lot. do the hubs feel hot a after a drive? I have never went that tight, try about 70ft/lbs-90ft/lbs, then back off 90 degrees, while turning the tire. could he still turn the tire by hand at 200ft/lbs?
Thats what i told him to do. My problem is we live in two different states, so i'm trying to talk him through this w/o seeing for myself.
Thanks for the info will forward to him. He will also ask his instructor at school if he as any ideas.
I have another que, this is for me. What year did ford start putting 6speed automatic transmissions in f250? I had a 96 f250 extend cab and would like to get another one, but i want to swap the 4speed automatic for a 6speed automatic. Also, i'm not sure if that is possiable either. I like having the 2 extra gears would be helpful when pulling my camper. Any info would be great. Thanks.
I was taught by a ford mechanic to not use a torque wrench on the bearing preload nut. Only the lock nut gets torqued down.
What I've always done is put the hub on the spindle with the pre load nut on hand tight, then put the wheel/tire on the hub. Now snug up the preload nut, spin the wheel. Put one hand on the top of the tire and one on the bottom, rock it like your trying to check for worn ball joints (in the camber direction), you want the smallest amount of play in this motion possible. So if there is no play, back the preload nut off one hole on the lock washer and check again. Do this until your one lock washer hole into the play. Put the lock nut on and torque down. Check for play, just a tiny bit is what you want (the spec is something like 0.001" end play). Sometimes you get it set up right with the preload nut, but when you torque down the lock nut the play goes away, I've always gone back in and backed off the preload nut one more lock washer hole, then put the lock nut back on and torqued it down (memory tells me its not 200 ft lbs, 160 maybe?, but can't recall for sure).
I would think 200 ft lbs on the bearing preload nut would rather quickly destroy the bearings when driving, but I've never tried it.
96' F150 5.8/E4OD 3.55 SCSB 1.5" lift 33x10.5 BFGs and custom flat bed
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