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Leak in one of my transmission lines to radiator
#1
Leak in one of my transmission lines to radiator
Hello: I am upset because I the bottom transmission line on my radiator sprung a small leak. Is this is major repair and how much will it cost should I take it to a mechanic? I am pretty mechanical and have fixed my truck in the past but I am really not in the mood to get under the truck and make this a two day job.
Are these lines pre-fabbed, meaning that they are pre-bent from the manufacturer, or just like brake lines, they have to be bent and flared? The leak is about an inch or two from where it connects to the radiator. Can I flare a piece in and fix it that way? My truck is a 1995 F-150 2WD by the way. 4.9 liter engine.
Steve
Are these lines pre-fabbed, meaning that they are pre-bent from the manufacturer, or just like brake lines, they have to be bent and flared? The leak is about an inch or two from where it connects to the radiator. Can I flare a piece in and fix it that way? My truck is a 1995 F-150 2WD by the way. 4.9 liter engine.
Steve
#3
It's sad that as any vehicle gets older, how every little thing -- not engine or tranny related -- keeps falling apart. These things will nickel and dime you, or should I say hundred-dollar(s) you.
Steve
#4
My son is using the Bronco on a surf safari, he is to return home today.
I will take some pictures later today.
I went to a hydraulic hose company to pick up the compression fittings and custom length hoses. I spent around 30.00 for each set up (2).
Make sure you use swivel ends. It will make installation easier.
I also used a tubing cutter and/or a hacksaw to cut the existing oil lines.
I noticed my lines are getting worse, especially in front of the front crossmember, and I am going to need replacement hoses soon.
I will take some pictures later today.
I went to a hydraulic hose company to pick up the compression fittings and custom length hoses. I spent around 30.00 for each set up (2).
Make sure you use swivel ends. It will make installation easier.
I also used a tubing cutter and/or a hacksaw to cut the existing oil lines.
I noticed my lines are getting worse, especially in front of the front crossmember, and I am going to need replacement hoses soon.
#5
I just did a full replacement of EVERY line on my truck. As well as a new cooler in front of the radiator. But as far as a simple leak all you need is rated 5/16th hose and dbl. clamp it on both ends. No need to get so fancy. I did all mine as it was getting to be more hose then steal line...
If your going to buy and bend up new lines get the polymer coated lines the government has now mandated. Not the raw alloy of days past.. Most part shops still have raw steel on the shelf, pass on it. Do it once, not 3 more times ...
BTW 1 foot of the rubber line and 4 clamps = 6 bucks and 20 mins. With a beer break. Just make sure you have tranny cooler line so the ATF does not eat it.
After thought Edit : If you have a flair tool debur and flair both cut ends it will help hold the line w/o leak or slip fears. If not, not a huge issue. Mine was both ways never had a issue.
If your going to buy and bend up new lines get the polymer coated lines the government has now mandated. Not the raw alloy of days past.. Most part shops still have raw steel on the shelf, pass on it. Do it once, not 3 more times ...
BTW 1 foot of the rubber line and 4 clamps = 6 bucks and 20 mins. With a beer break. Just make sure you have tranny cooler line so the ATF does not eat it.
After thought Edit : If you have a flair tool debur and flair both cut ends it will help hold the line w/o leak or slip fears. If not, not a huge issue. Mine was both ways never had a issue.
#6
I just did a full replacement of EVERY line on my truck. As well as a new cooler in front of the radiator. But as far as a simple leak all you need is rated 5/16th hose and dbl. clamp it on both ends. No need to get so fancy. I did all mine as it was getting to be more hose then steal line...
If your going to buy and bend up new lines get the polymer coated lines the government has now mandated. Not the raw alloy of days past.. Most part shops still have raw steel on the shelf, pass on it. Do it once, not 3 more times ...
BTW 1 foot of the rubber line and 4 clamps = 6 bucks and 20 mins. With a beer break. Just make sure you have tranny cooler line so the ATF does not eat it.
After thought Edit : If you have a flair tool debur and flair both cut ends it will help hold the line w/o leak or slip fears. If not, not a huge issue. Mine was both ways never had a issue.
If your going to buy and bend up new lines get the polymer coated lines the government has now mandated. Not the raw alloy of days past.. Most part shops still have raw steel on the shelf, pass on it. Do it once, not 3 more times ...
BTW 1 foot of the rubber line and 4 clamps = 6 bucks and 20 mins. With a beer break. Just make sure you have tranny cooler line so the ATF does not eat it.
After thought Edit : If you have a flair tool debur and flair both cut ends it will help hold the line w/o leak or slip fears. If not, not a huge issue. Mine was both ways never had a issue.
So, what parts do I need if this is the case in order for this to be a short fix. 5/16" wide rubber hose? Two clamps? What about the fitting going into the radiator. Should I just work around that but cutting it right at the beginning of the 90 degree leak and attack the hose there?
Steve
#7
Thanks for that advice. I put a paper towel around the leaking area and can verify that the leak is at the 90 degree bend coming two inches off the bottom of the radiator. A neighbor came by to look at it and he said that if you are going to sell the truck, you can get a piece of rubber hose and patch that area with two clamps after it has been cut. He said that the transmission lines going into the radiator are not under high pressure like, say break lines. Basically, all it does is circulate through there. If this is in fact an easy repair, I may go that route. He said it would hold for the life of a truck.
So, what parts do I need if this is the case in order for this to be a short fix. 5/16" wide rubber hose? Two clamps? What about the fitting going into the radiator. Should I just work around that but cutting it right at the beginning of the 90 degree leak and attack the hose there?
Steve
So, what parts do I need if this is the case in order for this to be a short fix. 5/16" wide rubber hose? Two clamps? What about the fitting going into the radiator. Should I just work around that but cutting it right at the beginning of the 90 degree leak and attack the hose there?
Steve
I use 4 clamps, 2 at each end and over lap a good 3 inches of steel line. If the line is not rotted to the point it will fall apart as you cut it go for your list of parts (line-clamps and yes 5/16th I.D. the OD is larger by far. ). Top line id sleeve at the bend as it has the room not to get kinked. Bottom is tight with the lower hose n stuff. That id fix the bend with hard line...
"if" you think the radiator side may take on more damage in cutting it.... Hit the auto parts store for a 6- 8 " piece of 5/16th with the fitting and toss the 90 bend in that. 5 bucks or so.. Sleeve the straight parts with the rubber. Being a bend you don't want that rubber line kinking as the truck bounces down the road this would keep that possible issue at bay. Simple and easy fix you'll have it done in a few mins.
Ford used rubber to the cooler right off the assembly line. . Its fine to use. Just don't get "any rubber" use SAE stuff. Most auto places and even mom and pop hardware stores stock it in bulk cut to order. .89- 1.50 a foot.
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#8
Using putty?
I just did a full replacement of EVERY line on my truck. As well as a new cooler in front of the radiator. But as far as a simple leak all you need is rated 5/16th hose and dbl. clamp it on both ends. No need to get so fancy. I did all mine as it was getting to be more hose then steal line...
If your going to buy and bend up new lines get the polymer coated lines the government has now mandated. Not the raw alloy of days past.. Most part shops still have raw steel on the shelf, pass on it. Do it once, not 3 more times ...
BTW 1 foot of the rubber line and 4 clamps = 6 bucks and 20 mins. With a beer break. Just make sure you have tranny cooler line so the ATF does not eat it.
After thought Edit : If you have a flair tool debur and flair both cut ends it will help hold the line w/o leak or slip fears. If not, not a huge issue. Mine was both ways never had a issue.
If your going to buy and bend up new lines get the polymer coated lines the government has now mandated. Not the raw alloy of days past.. Most part shops still have raw steel on the shelf, pass on it. Do it once, not 3 more times ...
BTW 1 foot of the rubber line and 4 clamps = 6 bucks and 20 mins. With a beer break. Just make sure you have tranny cooler line so the ATF does not eat it.
After thought Edit : If you have a flair tool debur and flair both cut ends it will help hold the line w/o leak or slip fears. If not, not a huge issue. Mine was both ways never had a issue.
Steve
#9
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