Funny how we talked about u-joints I had to remove a u-joint from a drive shaft in my off road buggy to repair a drive shaft I twisted. I had to cut off the twisted tube and weld on a new tube. The tube had twisted off till it snapped in two. To much HP dropping off a ledge on the rear end. Snap crackle and pop was the sound. Oh the joy of having fun. Good thing I can do these repairs I'd be broke.

 

It was the u-joint. One side of it was all dried out and rusty. Won't neglect to grease them anymore. Ended only replacing the u-joint. Didn't feel like replacing the ball joints at this time and they seemed fine. Besides, it doesn't take long to get to them.

My 0.02: I don't think a guy needs to replace the seals everytime. I was able to get everything apart and the seals were all reusable. I used the new ones since I had them but the old ones definitely could have been reused. This is why I didn't replace the ball joints right now.

Thanks for all your help guys!!

 

glad you got your issue taken care of! yea its just a good idea to check the ball joints and yea I wouldnt replace them unless they needed it anyways. also its just good to get the seals just as a precaution if the tear....

 

So could someone help get a part # list together for U-joint replacement?

I have the actual U joint:

Spicer SPL55-3X

Amazon.com: Spicer SPL55-3X U-Joint Kit: Automotive

Amazon.com: Spicer SPL55-3X U-Joint Kit: Automotive

Need to know what seals to order. Looked like there were two per side.

A video showed a guy using an "updated" axle seal with a metal end. Hoping to find that part #.


Some related helpful posts:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ust-cover.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...nt-axle-2.html

 

The spicer 3x's are the non greasable. I only install 4x's,,, Those are the greasable ones. We normally have them in stock. NOBODY in KC has 4x's in stock,,, except us!!! Lol

 

Saved by the bell. Thanks. Hadn't ordered yet. Found that the local jobber has Moog u joints in stock, and those are also greasable. I am also replacing the hub assemblies (Moog).

Still trying to hunt down part numbers for seals I will need.

 

These are the ones you want



I took a pic so you would know they do exist,,, contrary to what EVERY parts store might tell you. If you want a set,, you can call the shop n we can get a set out to you. However,, we are not an online store,, we are a shop with parts in stock,,, I gotta eat so you can get better prices elsewhere. Iirc they're gonna be about $75 each. I don't even try and compete with online sales. Lots of places sell parts and make pennys.

 

Got the bearing part numbers, the seals are what I keep asking about.

I didn't have time to read the entire ball joint thread, maybe someone listed them in the 30+ pages of replies. Or maybe they are in the first post and I overlooked them. I had to go to work to earn money to pay for this repair. Hope someone has easier access to those seal part numbers.

 

Ok,, I can get the seal numbers in a lil bit. But I would use the spicer u-joints over the moog. But moog is the ball joints I would use.

I've only used Ford hub assemblies,, if possible,,, Can you not forget this thread and check in with updates on how the moog hubs hold up??

 

You betcha.

Still looking for seal part numbers if anyone has them can you please reply? Many thanks.

 

Nevermind on the seals, I found what I need.

Ill updated this thread as I work through the repair & beyond.

 

Having trouble getting the driver's side u-joint clips removed. They are rustwelded to the yoke & bearing cups.

What can be done to get these things to pop off?

 

Hit the circlip with a cold chisel straight down on the flat portion. It should pop loose.
I normally just cut the cross out with a cutting torch then tap the caps inward easily with a ball peen hammer.

 

Update, kept working at it with kroil and tapping with a hammer. Got the 4 clips out then worked on the cups. Ready to install the new Spicer now.