Replacing Distributor on 65 Ford F250 352v8
#1
Replacing Distributor on 65 Ford F250 352v8
Hello I am a newbie at this and I am open for advice. I own a 65 Ford F250 and right now it is my daily driver. I am having issues with the points. The backing plate is loose and is fouling out my points. Third one in 3 months. Any suggestion to fix the loose backing plate?
Or I would like to swap out the distributor for a later electronic one from a latter model Ford Truck. Is this wise?
Not even sure which model year or engine is even compatible? suggestions?
or should I consider updating to ignitor conversion kit from pertronix?
Or I would like to swap out the distributor for a later electronic one from a latter model Ford Truck. Is this wise?
Not even sure which model year or engine is even compatible? suggestions?
or should I consider updating to ignitor conversion kit from pertronix?
#2
Welcome to the Gang , friend, these guys will steer you in the right direction, and also, you can as you know, google what it is you want to accomplish and the sites will pile up, just keep asking here, and checking google\bing. You can swap the dist. out w\ one from the many catalogs you will hear about on this forum
#3
Welcome aboard; I'm no mechanic or guru; but if monies tight; check into getting a Dizzy from a 70's model 360 along with the wiring harness and ingition module; you can incorporate your truck over to electronic with out spending alot for the swap. as mention by 99 Hosss; use the "Search this Thread" and type in distributor; you'll be surprise whats already been discuss & read about all the after market dizzy etc.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#4
Hello I am a newbie at this and I am open for advice. I own a 65 Ford F250 and right now it is my daily driver. I am having issues with the points.
The breaker plate is loose and is fouling out my points. Third one in 3 months. Any suggestion to fix the loose backing plate?
The breaker plate is loose and is fouling out my points. Third one in 3 months. Any suggestion to fix the loose backing plate?
The original breaker plate used 1958/71 is two separate pieces (B9AZ-12151-A upper ~ B9AZ-12151-A lower). The nylon bushings between the upper/lower plates give way, then the problems begin.
In 1972, Ford came out with: D2PZ-12151-A .. Breaker Plate-One piece design, replaces the two pieces (Motorcraft DB-187-A).
#5
If you are having issues with something worn out than replace what is bad or purchase a reman distributor for your truck. Now, there are a few things you can do. Converting to electronic ignition isn't difficult if you understand basic auto wiring. You can hit the local salvage yards that have old cars, if there are any that are left and look for Ford cars/trucks that had the FE engines in them w/electronic ignition. I believe Ford went to electronic (Dura Spark) ignition in 1975/76 with the FE engines. Then you can get all the connectors and wiring for converting it, also, take pictures of it before you remove it that way you know how it was done. Write things down. The best thing you can do is buy a reman distributor for a 75-78 F-series with the FE engine that used the Dura Spark ignition. Then you know it is good to go. Purchase a new Dura Spark Box also. Pay attention to the color of on the box where the wires go in. Some are brown, some are blue. That matters for a replacement. You can most likely purchase the distributor and Dura Spark box for under $75. Then it is a matter of connecting the wiring up. Take your time doing it, you don't want to melt anything. The second alternative is to install a Pertronix Igniter. It is a 30 minute install and you use your distributor but remove the points/condenser and install it, connect the neg/pos wires and you are done. Very simple to do. It works well for what it was designed for. I ran one for a few years and never had a problem with it. The Pertronix will set you back about $70. Good Luck. Here are a few website below. Google it and you will find quite a few articles on the conversion.
Duraspark II Conversion Basics
conversion
Duraspark II conversion
Duraspark II Conversion Basics
conversion
Duraspark II conversion
#6
DuraSpark introduced in 1974. Some 1974/75's have DuraSpark, some do not, as it depends on the application.
The module used 1974 is 1974 only. The module used 1975 is 1975 only.
1976/79 is the same if it's the blue module. This same module was used into the 1990's. =
1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A, D8VZ-12A199-A & D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module-Blue (Motorcraft DY-893).
Some 1976/79 vehicles sold new in CA have a red module that was a POS from day one.
Some 1979's have a brown module.
Inside the dizzy is a stator (aka magnetic pickup coil). 1974/79 V8 is the same, except 1979 LTD/Mercury Grand Marquis w/a 351W and EEC.
D4PZ-12A112-A .. Stator (Motorcraft DU-1A).
FE engines cancelled after 1976.
The module used 1974 is 1974 only. The module used 1975 is 1975 only.
1976/79 is the same if it's the blue module. This same module was used into the 1990's. =
1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A, D8VZ-12A199-A & D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module-Blue (Motorcraft DY-893).
Some 1976/79 vehicles sold new in CA have a red module that was a POS from day one.
Some 1979's have a brown module.
Inside the dizzy is a stator (aka magnetic pickup coil). 1974/79 V8 is the same, except 1979 LTD/Mercury Grand Marquis w/a 351W and EEC.
D4PZ-12A112-A .. Stator (Motorcraft DU-1A).
FE engines cancelled after 1976.
#7
When I installed my Duraspark I purchased a rebuilt distributor for a '74 360 and used a "blue" spark box that I had sitting around, along with a DII coil that was also sitting around. I used a wrecking yard wiring harness that included the connectors for the distributor, both for the spark box, and the one for the coil (that funky slide on half moon they used). Since I rewired the truck at the same time I didn't have to worry about the harness matching up to the box. I noticed that the harness had three wires on one of the spark box plugs but the box only had two wires on the mating plug. Also had to put in a resistor block since I didn't have the old "pink" wire. Need to make sure your starter solenoid has the additional terminal for the spark box.
The whole conversion can be done for $100 or less and works a LOT better than points. You can use your old distributor cap and rotor, but some people recommend using the big flat cap. I also gapped my plugs at .042 instead of .035.
Alternatively, Pertronix Ignitors are a lot easier to install, but isn't going to fix your loose plate. The original Ignitor had problems overheating, but I think they've fixed that in the later models.
The whole conversion can be done for $100 or less and works a LOT better than points. You can use your old distributor cap and rotor, but some people recommend using the big flat cap. I also gapped my plugs at .042 instead of .035.
Alternatively, Pertronix Ignitors are a lot easier to install, but isn't going to fix your loose plate. The original Ignitor had problems overheating, but I think they've fixed that in the later models.
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#8
When I installed my Duraspark I purchased a rebuilt distributor for a '74 360 and used a "blue" spark box that I had sitting around, along with a DII coil that was also sitting around. I used a wrecking yard wiring harness that included the connectors for the distributor, both for the spark box, and the one for the coil (that funky slide on half moon they used). Since I rewired the truck at the same time I didn't have to worry about the harness matching up to the box. I noticed that the harness had three wires on one of the spark box plugs but the box only had two wires on the mating plug. Also had to put in a resistor block since I didn't have the old "pink" wire. Need to make sure your starter solenoid has the additional terminal for the spark box.
The whole conversion can be done for $100 or less and works a LOT better than points. You can use your old distributor cap and rotor, but some people recommend using the big flat cap. I also gapped my plugs at .042 instead of .035.
Alternatively, Pertronix Ignitors are a lot easier to install, but isn't going to fix your loose plate. The original Ignitor had problems overheating, but I think they've fixed that in the later models.
The whole conversion can be done for $100 or less and works a LOT better than points. You can use your old distributor cap and rotor, but some people recommend using the big flat cap. I also gapped my plugs at .042 instead of .035.
Alternatively, Pertronix Ignitors are a lot easier to install, but isn't going to fix your loose plate. The original Ignitor had problems overheating, but I think they've fixed that in the later models.
#10
A rebuilt Cardone distributor for your truck is $40.00 through Autozone. Make sure to ask for something like a 1971 F100 with 390 V-8 as they don't list anything for the 352. I just installed one today and it's built nicer than my original FOMOCO unit. The rebuilt one is an Autolite distributor. I added the Pertronix Ignitor One and it just purrs. I use a stock coil. If your engine is stock you don't need the hotter coil or HEI ignitions available out there. Carry a spare points set and if the Pertronix ever dies; you simply bolt the points back in. The Pertronix are very reliable and simple. This would be your easiest solution.
#12
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